CoralReefer
New Member
Here's a pic of my creation. From what I can tell it's pretty close to the original. What do you think?
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"82 Anchor Hatch Recreation
- Thread starter CoralReefer
- Start date
KRB64
Member
- Oct 12, 2006
- 785
- Boat Info
- '76 SRV195 (our first) -> moved up to
'78 240 WE (now 4 sale because ->)
'82 260 DA shared
- Engines
- A Ford 351, a couple GM 350s and a Cummins 6BT to pull it all (W250)
Wow, looks real good from what I can see. Did you route in a channel underneath for a gasket? You ought to start reproducing those for folks.
ghuskin
New Member
- Jul 10, 2007
- 1,089
- Boat Info
- SRV225 Cuddy Cabin, 1983
- Engines
- 228 Mercruiser w/ pre-Alpha1 "R" Drive
what material did you use? Looks awesome!
CoralReefer
New Member
I didn't route the grove. Why? I used a piece of Starboard 1/2 inch purchased at West Marine. The original door was about 1" thick so I don't think it's going to sit all the way down on the metal frame below. West also provided the teak trim all ready cut with the 1/2 gap to wrap around the edge of the board. All I had to do is mitre the corners and use "Marine Goop" adhesive to mount trim to the board.
When I install, I'm going to use West's hatch foam rubber adhesive seal to fit "around" the metal frame (there's a 1" channel that looks like the foam seal when mounted to the under side of the door should be a nice fit). I'll let you know how it works.
You might be right about making these for resale. You can't find the originals or reproductions anywhere.
Thanks for the kudos.
When I install, I'm going to use West's hatch foam rubber adhesive seal to fit "around" the metal frame (there's a 1" channel that looks like the foam seal when mounted to the under side of the door should be a nice fit). I'll let you know how it works.
You might be right about making these for resale. You can't find the originals or reproductions anywhere.
Thanks for the kudos.
KRB64
Member
- Oct 12, 2006
- 785
- Boat Info
- '76 SRV195 (our first) -> moved up to
'78 240 WE (now 4 sale because ->)
'82 260 DA shared
- Engines
- A Ford 351, a couple GM 350s and a Cummins 6BT to pull it all (W250)
Ahhh, West Marine! I spend a lot of hours just dreaming over that catalog.
CoralReefer
New Member
Tell me about it. I spent a whole day going page by page. LOL
CoralReefer
New Member
Mounted today but forgot to take pics. Turned out real nice. I'll take some shots and post.
belairboater
New Member
When you start production, put me down for 1.
berth control
New Member
Are you guys seeing a picture I am not? I would like to see this thing, I recently ran into the same problem on my boat. I ended up making a new pulpit and extended it back to cover the rode locker. It looks nice and clean, especially since I have a windlass mounted on mine, and this was the only way to mount the windlass securely on top of the locker on my boat. It looks good, but if I have any sort of tangle in the rode I will need to access the locker from the front of the v berth in the cabin. so far i have not had the need to though. posted is a pic of it, my wife happened to take a picture of her feet on it! you can kind of see the windlass on the left, the pulpit prob. goes another foot from there to cover the locker.
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CoralReefer
New Member
Here's a pic from my original post.
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berth control
New Member
aaah, there it is, thanks for putting it up. Looks great, I wish I had one that nice on my last boat too, the 230 weekender. Both my boats with those hatches looked bad, but yours is pretty sweet!
ghuskin
New Member
- Jul 10, 2007
- 1,089
- Boat Info
- SRV225 Cuddy Cabin, 1983
- Engines
- 228 Mercruiser w/ pre-Alpha1 "R" Drive
Keokie,
that hatch looks sweet in teak!!! How much did that run you?
I'm having trouble keeping my original anchor cover in decent shape (keep re-doing it every year). Solid teak would be awesome!
that hatch looks sweet in teak!!! How much did that run you?
I'm having trouble keeping my original anchor cover in decent shape (keep re-doing it every year). Solid teak would be awesome!
berth control
New Member
Kieoke,
I agree that hatch looks pretty sweet. You mounted your windlass to it, can you still open or hinge it? Also, did you make that pulpit? It looks different than my original did before I replaced it. It is two boards thick. here is a similar angle of my boat / pulpit. you can see how mine is one piece a little better in this pic. but again, I can' t get to the locker from above. I made mine out of ipe? wood. pronounced eeepay. I was told it was as good in the elements and stronger than teak, but it doesn't look as good, it's darker. I couldn't get teak though, the wood place said to use it instead. I guess time will tell.
I agree that hatch looks pretty sweet. You mounted your windlass to it, can you still open or hinge it? Also, did you make that pulpit? It looks different than my original did before I replaced it. It is two boards thick. here is a similar angle of my boat / pulpit. you can see how mine is one piece a little better in this pic. but again, I can' t get to the locker from above. I made mine out of ipe? wood. pronounced eeepay. I was told it was as good in the elements and stronger than teak, but it doesn't look as good, it's darker. I couldn't get teak though, the wood place said to use it instead. I guess time will tell.
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keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,494
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
Here's a better picture.
The bow pulpit is original. But the structure underneath was very heavily re-inforced. I semi-permantly closed the hatch the windlass is in, however I have a very big access hatch inside the cabin. I have controls at the helm and at the forward deck hatch which allows me to reach the ground tackle and the anchor locker with minimal effort.
The bow pulpit is original. But the structure underneath was very heavily re-inforced. I semi-permantly closed the hatch the windlass is in, however I have a very big access hatch inside the cabin. I have controls at the helm and at the forward deck hatch which allows me to reach the ground tackle and the anchor locker with minimal effort.
BillyT0020
New Member
Keokie,
Wow That looks great man! I was actually thinking about putting a windlass on my 80 dancer but didn't know how the hell I would go about doing it! Something similar to your setup might work for me as well, what type of windlass and roller on the pulpit is that? When the anchor is down does the windlass just hold the line in place or do you have a deck eye mounted somewhere you have to tie it off to? What kind of reinforcement did you do insinde the hatch?
Looks awesome Man!
Billy
Wow That looks great man! I was actually thinking about putting a windlass on my 80 dancer but didn't know how the hell I would go about doing it! Something similar to your setup might work for me as well, what type of windlass and roller on the pulpit is that? When the anchor is down does the windlass just hold the line in place or do you have a deck eye mounted somewhere you have to tie it off to? What kind of reinforcement did you do insinde the hatch?
Looks awesome Man!
Billy
keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,494
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
BillyTOO20,
We put a Windlass in my dad's '81 260, and a friend's '82 260 as well (both are indentical to yours). There is a tremendous amount of reinforcement under the hatch. You also have to lowere the floor in the anchor locker so there is enough fall for the windlass to work properly.
The windlass is a Sprint 600. I actually like it better than the Progress 1 that came with my 310. The bow roller is by Windline, but I don't remember which model. I liked it because it will self-launch and has a captive pin to secure the anchor.
Yes, I tie the rode off to a cleat rather than strain the windlass.
We put a Windlass in my dad's '81 260, and a friend's '82 260 as well (both are indentical to yours). There is a tremendous amount of reinforcement under the hatch. You also have to lowere the floor in the anchor locker so there is enough fall for the windlass to work properly.
The windlass is a Sprint 600. I actually like it better than the Progress 1 that came with my 310. The bow roller is by Windline, but I don't remember which model. I liked it because it will self-launch and has a captive pin to secure the anchor.
Yes, I tie the rode off to a cleat rather than strain the windlass.
BillyT0020
New Member
Keokie,
How far did you have to drop the anchor hatch down? Do you think this would be required even with a horizontal windlass or just for a vertical? I thought that the motor was all topside and it just dumped the rope to the hatch below on a horizontal, but I could very easily be wrong!
If your ever on your Dad's boat and could snap some pictures of the reinforced/dropped anchor hatch I surely would appreciate it as it sounds like a pretty major job. Not really sure how I would go about cutting into the glass at the bottom of that hatch or whats underneath it and a pic sure would help me understand how to reinforce and permanently seal the anchor hatch shut.
Man you are the expert on these old Sea Rays! Nice to have someone with your knowledge on these boards!
Thanks
Billy
How far did you have to drop the anchor hatch down? Do you think this would be required even with a horizontal windlass or just for a vertical? I thought that the motor was all topside and it just dumped the rope to the hatch below on a horizontal, but I could very easily be wrong!
If your ever on your Dad's boat and could snap some pictures of the reinforced/dropped anchor hatch I surely would appreciate it as it sounds like a pretty major job. Not really sure how I would go about cutting into the glass at the bottom of that hatch or whats underneath it and a pic sure would help me understand how to reinforce and permanently seal the anchor hatch shut.
Man you are the expert on these old Sea Rays! Nice to have someone with your knowledge on these boards!
Thanks
Billy
keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,494
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
I love the old Sea Rays.
I'll see if I can dig up some pictures of my dad's. Lowering the floor is relatively easy, but messy. Simply cut the old floor (there is nothing underneath), and install a newer one about a foot lower.
As I recall, a horizontal did not require lowering the floor, but the finished look is not as clean.
I'll see if I can dig up some pictures of my dad's. Lowering the floor is relatively easy, but messy. Simply cut the old floor (there is nothing underneath), and install a newer one about a foot lower.
As I recall, a horizontal did not require lowering the floor, but the finished look is not as clean.
