78 SEA RAY TRIM PROBLEMS

nuggs2590

New Member
Aug 17, 2007
1
I have a 78 sea ray with a gm 305 and a omc 800 stinger outdrive.
I have 2 problems The trim for the outboard seems to work fine to put it up and down once or twice then stops working. I'll leave it sit and try it again later. Sometimes it'll work or I'll have to leave it sit even longer and try it again. Then it'll work. The selinods are brand new and the motor is getting power but still nothing will happen. 2nd the front of the engine has another screw type electric motor that is getting power but isn't working. I think this motor is just shot. I need to find a replacement
 
Not familiar with OMC but the Mercs have a switch I think that cuts out when the trim motor over heats. Could that be your problem since it works after cooling down? Something obstructing their movement or just the motor getting old?

Sorry not much help...
 
My trims act up also. One day, I couldnt lower the out drive. After some thinking I fixed it like you do the starter on your truck... Hit it with the hammer. It worked that time. I went to the marina to try to get a new one, it is a discontinued part. So now we have to try to find an after market one.

The Select trim (engine trim) works intermittantly. It seems to work while underway. I usually get it where I want it and leave it. That motor is also discontinued.

Us boatworks is a salvage company (Boat Junk Yard) in Kansas City. They have quite a bit of good parts. they have worked on my OMC and have done good work. They have a parts list online:
www.boatengine.com

Hope this helps

Wade
 
Most larger metro areas have electric motor rebuilding shops that should be able to repair those like new.
 
I had a similar problem with my 240WE. I checked all of the connections with a DVM and
found I was getting the necessary voltage to the solenoids and motor.
What I wasn't getting was the AMPS. I cleaned the wire spade connectors on the
dashboard switch ,the solenoid wiring eyelets, and any other contact surface that
was exposed.
After the cleaning, the I/O tilt worked like a charm every time.
I used a 400grit for the real nasty buildups and 2000 grit to polish it up and this
contact cleaner/sealer Radio Shack sells. Costs about $12 a tube.
It works great! I used to use a product called "Gold Wipe" from TexWipe on
tin/silver/gold plated contacts on all the electronics I worked on at a Navy base.
Never had contact problems again. The Radio Shack stuff seems to work the same way.
 
I would clean all of the connections between the dash switch to the tilt solenoid/motor.

The troubleshoot the motor trim by seeing which direction the motor moves.
Whatever direction the motor doesn't move in take note.
Disconnect the engine battery. Check for voltage at the solenoid signal wires (12VDC).
Remove the UP solenoid signal wire and the Down solenoid signal wire at the solenoids and move the UP wire to the down solenoid and the Down wire to the up solenoid.
Reconnect the battery.
Now test it.
If the direction that wasn't functioning is now functioning, it means that the solenoid
and the motor are working. You probably have a bad toggle switch on the dashboard or a
wiring problem. If nothing works after the swap, you may have a solenoid problem.
To test:
Disconnect the battery.
Place the clean solenoid signal wires back to their original clean positions.
Now swap the solenoid power wires (wires going from solenoids to the tilt motor).
Remove the down power wire from the down solenoid and the up power wire
from the solenoid and connect the UP power to the down solenoid and the Down power
to the up solenoid.
Reconnect the battery.
Try toggling the direction that was working and the engine should now go in the opposite
direction.
Try toggling the direction that wasn't working. Should still be dead.
The good news is that you have a bad solenoid instead of a motor.
Disconnect the battery and reconnect all the wires to their normal positions.
Order a new solenoid. I've seen these in the Sierra catalogs.
 

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