7.4 electric choke

[xravenx]

I don't have 12 volts going to the electric chokes on both motors, doesn't matter if just the ignitions are turned on or the engines are running. I removed the "hot" wire from both electric chokes and provided 12 volts to them from another source, started the motors and they function properly. Does anybody know where the 12 volts for these chokes originate, I would rather find the source and correct it. Wiring diagram would be nice also............thanks.

John

 

[Bt Doctur]

Manual 16 shows a purple/yellow wire coming off a lead on the alt going to the choke.

 

[xravenx]

Thanks Doc,

They are purple/yellow wires going to the chokes. I changed the risers and maniflods before last spring. I shorted something out close to one of the alternators while removing one of the manifolds, really didn't think nothing of it. Splashed the boat after that and the starboard motor ran like crap for the first couple weeks of the season and then seemed fine when the weather warmed up. Then started running like crap again the last part of the season, port motor seemed fine the entire season. Kind of strange that both chokes do not have power..........I will check it this Saturday.

John

 

[Bt Doctur]

Most likely the alt`s are bad in the area providing power to the chokes, but next time, for SAFETY SAKE ,disconnect the battery BEFORE performing any work.

 

[Redhook98]

I just connected my new electric chokes to the negative side of the coil. That way they are only powered when they key is on. They are a very minimal power drain.

 

[BonBini]

I just connected my new electric chokes to the negative side of the coil. That way they are only powered when they key is on. They are a very minimal power drain.

The neg side of the coil is where the distributor trigger cycles the coil on/off to produce spark to the spark plugs. Also a good source for a tach pickup. I dought this engine would even start. May even become gas flooded.... Now that the coil is partially grounded via choke stat, spark would seem to be weak. With a badly flooded engine, perhaps even just cycling the ignition switch on/off could produce a single spark to ignite this bilge bomb.... just sayin!

Redhhook: The electric choke typically runs off the alt stator wire. The op most likely popped a diode and is not getting full alt output as a result of. I don't know details of your new "electric chokes" but to me something does not sound right with the electical hook up.

 

[Redhook98]

The neg side of the coil is where the distributor trigger cycles the coil on/off to produce spark to the spark plugs. Also a good source for a tach pickup. I dought this engine would even start. May even become gas flooded.... Now that the coil is partially grounded via choke stat, spark would seem to be weak. With a badly flooded engine, perhaps even just cycling the ignition switch on/off could produce a single spark to ignite this bilge bomb.... just sayin!

Redhhook: The electric choke typically runs off the alt stator wire. The op most likely popped a diode and is not getting full alt output as a result of. I don't know details of your new "electric chokes" but to me something does not sound right with the electical hook up.

Must be connected to the positive side then. Couldn't remember which side I hooked them to. Either way, they work great! The reason they are new is I bought new Q-jets and they came with electric chokes instead of the old manual ones. I have hooked similar low-draw sensors up to the coil before in cars (like the solenoid for a cowl-induction vent opener), so why not the chokes? Until I hear different, I'll keep em that way..... Cheers!

 

[Quint4]

I just put on a new Edelbrock carb with electric choke. Edelbrock strongly advises not to use alternator or coil for 12v power to choke. I ran a new wire from back of ignition switch to the choke.
Not trying to be a know it all just adding to the conversation.