6.2 Liter Engine Removal 2003 Sundancer 300

[Buzzie8]

Anyone ever pull a 6.2 liter engine on their boat? I have quite a bit of experience with these types of things but do not want to get into a huge job. From what I can see, I need to remove the throttle linkage, the engine mounts (from the hull to keep the engine adjusted to same height). Exhaust bellows (to outdrive), gas line, cooling hoses, and disconnect one wiring harness. I was told I could keep the outdrive on if I had 5" or more of room to pull engine forward away from drive but it might create some trouble putting back in. Is there anything I am missing. It looks somewhat easy at first review. I was going to use a friend of mine's crane truck to hoist out. I have zero compression in one cylinder and while I will check the heads I was told the cylinder was scoped and it has a scored cylinder. Any help with pulling the engine procedure would be greatly appreciated. Oh, one last question what will I need to disconnect to make sure the engine can be released from the transom where it connects to the outdrive?:grin:

 

[Bt Doctur]

I was told I could keep the outdrive on if I had 5" or more of room to pull engine forward away from
Try not to get any more advice from that person, it will cost you a lot more in repairs
Remove the battery, the outdrive, electrical connections and bonding wires from the transom,
control cables, fuel line, power steering lines at the steering cylinder, exaust rubber couplings.
While the engine is out consider a small 500 gph bilge pump at the transom. The reason is that a inch of bilge water may be 6 inches at the flywheel slinging it into the starter.Wire it to the main pump so both go on at the same time.
Locate a alignment bar to check engine alignment at installation. Failure to get it right will cost you a coupler and another engine removal.
Consider removing the front lags or unbolt the motor mount from the stringer plate. You need to have the nuts "movable" to adjust the alignment. A lot easier to check, clean, loosen with the engine out. You may need a oxy/acet torch to loosen them.
Being a `03 you might want to consider new rear mounts too

 

[Buzzie8]

Thanks Bt Doctor. I really appreciate your help.
I read about an alignment bar a while back. Do you have any additional information on how you use an alignment bar? That's the only thing that has me a bit hesitant about doing it myself.

Also, thanks for your suggestions about the bilge installation and rear mounts.

I was told I could keep the outdrive on if I had 5" or more of room to pull engine forward away from
Try not to get any more advice from that person, it will cost you a lot more in repairs
Remove the battery, the outdrive, electrical connections and bonding wires from the transom,
control cables, fuel line, power steering lines at the steering cylinder, exaust rubber couplings.
While the engine is out consider a small 500 gph bilge pump at the transom. The reason is that a inch of bilge water may be 6 inches at the flywheel slinging it into the starter.Wire it to the main pump so both go on at the same time.
Locate a alignment bar to check engine alignment at installation. Failure to get it right will cost you a coupler and another engine removal.
Consider removing the front lags or unbolt the motor mount from the stringer plate. You need to have the nuts "movable" to adjust the alignment. A lot easier to check, clean, loosen with the engine out. You may need a oxy/acet torch to loosen them.
Being a `03 you might want to consider new rear mounts too

 

[Bt Doctur]

Once the engine is installed you can:
Get a old input shaft and have it machined 1/8 inch undersize where the gimbal bearing sits and machine off the area for the U joint
Use this as a rough alignment using 1/8 welding rod as a gauge.Once it is reasonable centered insert the bar tapping it up, down, left, right to center the gimbal bearing if the bearing was replaced. Once properly aligned all you should need is 2 greased fingers to install it and remove it.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYwnK8mjHdw

 

[Westie]

A shaft machined 1/8 undersized is way too sloppy to be used as an alignment tool. Might get you somewhat close but still not good. there are lots of sources for a proper alignment tool. I got mine from EBAY.

 

[scoflaw]

A 1" wood dowel from the hardware store will get you close enough

 

[Bt Doctur]

A shaft machined 1/8 undersized is way too sloppy to be used as an alignment tool
If you read it again it is not used for the alignment but used for a rough alignment .It allows you to SEE where to move the motor to get the alignment close.
Sticking the alignment bar in blind , leave you with no idea of where and how far off you are to begin with

 

[Buzzie8]

Thanks BT. I saw a Youtube video and understand now. I will probably borrow one off a marina owner that I know. I think I can do this. Does not seem out of my expertise. Any good suggestions on buying a short block? Jasper? 6.2 Liters seem rare from my research so far. Is it the same as a 5.7 that becomes 6.2 because it is a "stroker" engine? I'm sure a reman company will know what I need it a rebuild does not make sense.

A shaft machined 1/8 undersized is way too sloppy to be used as an alignment tool
If you read it again it is not used for the alignment but used for a rough alignment .It allows you to SEE where to move the motor to get the alignment close.
Sticking the alignment bar in blind , leave you with no idea of where and how far off you are to begin with