500/520 DB official thread

Thanks Tom. As a follow up, which density did you choose and did you opt for an adhesive backing?
 
Thanks Tom. As a follow up, which density did you choose and did you opt for an adhesive backing?
This was for my old boat. I didn't want adhesive backing but in the size I needed that is all available. I removed the backing and wetted the adhesive with soapy water and it installed just fine.
 
Same. Mine are short too. Thanks Tom for the info. I’m sure most of us will be repacking these spaces soon.
 
I have a few places in the windshield frame that allows rainwater in. The water ends up dripping down the bridge steps…

Have any of you dealt with this and been able to correct it?
 
I have a few places are kind the windshield frame that allows rainwater in. The water ends up dripping down the bridge steps…

Have any of you dealt with this and been able to correct it?
Same issue here. It seems to be from three areas - The front glass zipper, The back corner of the large side windows where the stainless rail meets the gelcoat, and the rear corner glass at that intersection for the bridge top support. Project 4A6-719 Rev C is to pull all of that railing out and install new lexan lites and re-seal all of it. I suspect it has always leaked.... For the rear curved window - I plan to add some tabs to the canvas to cover the openings.
 
Same issue here. It seems to be from three areas - The front glass zipper, The back corner of the large side windows where the stainless rail meets the gelcoat, and the rear corner glass at that intersection for the bridge top support. Project 4A6-719 Rev C is to pull all of that railing out and install new lexan lites and re-seal all of it. I suspect it has always leaked.... For the rear curved window - I plan to add some tabs to the canvas to cover the openings.

Meant to include this photo. New windshield glass is on the list also, lots of crazing or crackling in mine.

I think adding more of a ledge to the existing drip rail in the bottom of the picture may divert the water to the back of the bridge and out the original intended drain location…

IMG_0137.jpeg
 
I went with the Seaboard branded filter. No complaints. It does require cleaning. Some oil them although Seaboard states that is not necessary in a marine environment.

View attachment 149469
I went with the Seaboard filter as well when I bought the boat 5yrs ago. 600+hrs on them and still holding up great. I clean and oil them each fall when I winterize the engines.
 
How are you cleaning them? Per my mechanic’s instructions, I’ve been soaking them in warm water with a bit of degreasing dish soap, then rinsing them.
 
How are you cleaning them? Per my mechanic’s instructions, I’ve been soaking them in warm water with a bit of degreasing dish soap, then rinsing them.
I use an air filter cleaning kit from Amazon. Basically it is degreaser that you use with water to clean the filter with Then a red oil that you re-oil the filter with once it dries.

something like this but I used the S&B brand
https://a.co/d/85Fvs88
 
Hey guys. I finally but the bullet and will be servicing my salon AC unit. I have decided not to purchase a new one and will hopefully get another 2-5 years out of the original. My plan is to:
- thoroughly clean the existing unit
- repaint the white parts in rust oleum
- scrape and paint the rusted gray with Flex Seal
- comb out the fins
- replace the flexible ducting
- clean clean clean (it was reall gross back there)

IMG_3431.jpeg


My question is what upgrades would you make while everything is taken apart. Would you add any additional plumbing for easier maintenance? Would you run any additional wires?
 
Also, has anyone replaced the flexible HVAC ducting with rigid ducting that is more easily cleaned?
 
Hey guys. I finally but the bullet and will be servicing my salon AC unit. I have decided not to purchase a new one and will hopefully get another 2-5 years out of the original. My plan is to:
- thoroughly clean the existing unit
- repaint the white parts in rust oleum
- scrape and paint the rusted gray with Flex Seal
- comb out the fins
- replace the flexible ducting
- clean clean clean (it was reall gross back there)

View attachment 149844

My question is what upgrades would you make while everything is taken apart. Would you add any additional plumbing for easier maintenance? Would you run any additional wires?
I just replaced my salon AC this spring because it kept freezing up. One thing I noticed is the air distribution box that comes off the fan was not mounted correctly so about 1/4 of the outlet from the fan was blocked and may have contributed to my freezing issue. If it couldn’t flow enough air when warm out it would make the unit freeze. Maybe while you have it accessible pull the ducts off and make sure the plenum is installed correctly.
 
Starboard aft. According to my manual, this is the holding tank vent. I've never seen this white "crusty" stuff down the side of the boat until this season. There is no odor to it so maybe I'm wrong. Any ideas?
 

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Starboard aft. According to my manual, this is the holding tank vent. I've never seen this white "crusty" stuff down the side of the boat until this season. There is no odor to it so maybe I'm wrong. Any ideas?
Mine did that as well. It actually changed the color of the gel coat to a lighter color. No idea what it was. It wasn't there when we bought the boat, and the only thing we used was CPP in the toilets.

Tim
 
Starboard aft. According to my manual, this is the holding tank vent. I've never seen this white "crusty" stuff down the side of the boat until this season. There is no odor to it so maybe I'm wrong. Any ideas?
Mine did that as well. It actually changed the color of the gel coat to a lighter color. No idea what it was. It wasn't there when we bought the boat, and the only thing we used was CPP in the toilets.

Tim
I was thinking a slight over fill when using CPP or noflex eariler. It may not smell too much if you are diligent in maintaining your system.
 

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