500/520 DB official thread

Mac Magic said:
Hauled the boat replaced the zinc thru hull bolts and ground wire. Noticed a few weep holes in the bottom and looks like a few spots of delamination on the bottom. Has anyone had this issue before?
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We have not. Any pictures?
 
I went back and searched which is something I should have done before posting. Looks somewhat common. Going to have them sanded back and redone by a pro at the yard.

also had both dripless shaft seals replaced.
 
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rlynch03 said:
We have not. Any pictures?
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There are 3. Mid-aft boat. Looks like under the engines. I read the 480 DB thread during my search and they said they are somewhat common.
 
Mac Magic said:
There are 3. Mid-aft boat. Looks like under the engines. I read the 480 DB thread during my search and they said they are somewhat common.
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Is the gelcoat blue or is that the bottom paint check coat? Is this defect really as big as it looks? It almost looks like a repair done in the past. Let us know what you find out.. It would be good to get @fwebster input.
index.php
 
Mac Magic said:
Hauled the boat replaced the zinc thru hull bolts and ground wire. Noticed a few weep holes in the bottom and looks like a few spots of delamination on the bottom. Has anyone had this issue before?
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Did you say that sea water was starting to come into the bildge?
 
ttmott said:
Is the gelcoat blue or is that the bottom paint check coat? Is this defect really as big as it looks? It almost looks like a repair done in the past. Let us know what you find out.. It would be good to get @fwebster input.
index.php
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Sure looks like impact damage to me, but I've slept in a Holiday Inn Express, so I'm no expert...
 
No water into bilge. Gelcoat is blue. They look bigger in the picture. About the size of a small nerf football
 
I would like to know what the inside of the hull looks like where each of these is located whether it be the bilge or somewhere else inside. For clarification, When you say small nerf ball that equates to the “smile” in the picture being about 6 inches in length? Also, is the longer axis running lengthwise with the centerline or across the boat. It would be nice to see a picture with the hull further away in addition to these closeups.
 
Just had the issue reviewed by the “local expert”. No big deal. Something with the epoxy adhesive between layers or something along those lines. Going to have them grind the sections and repair. Not structural. Went over the entire bottom of the boat.
 
Glad to hear Steve!
 
rlynch03 said:
Glad to hear Steve!
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Thanks. Apparently these guys who do this for a living understand the issue and aren’t surprised to see it. Although he did say he doesn’t see it on Sea Rays as much. Glad it’s nothing serious!!
 
Mac Magic said:
Thanks. Apparently these guys who do this for a living understand the issue and aren’t surprised to see it. Although he did say he doesn’t see it on Sea Rays as much. Glad it’s nothing serious!!
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Sounds like it was just a void that opened up. More common than we want to admit. The bagging/vacuum build process (like what Hatteras uses) tends to eliminate them completely...
 
Upgraded the Microwave today... Most of the numbers/buttons on the OE microwave had stopped working...

New unit is the Breville BMO870BSS1BUC1

Pretty easy upgrade

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rlynch03 said:
Upgraded the Microwave today... Most of the numbers/buttons on the OE microwave had stopped working...

New unit is the Breville BMO870BSS1BUC1

Pretty easy upgrade

View attachment 100751
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I might follow your lead on this. The unit we have doesn’t even do microwave popcorn well so we don’t use it much. It wasn’t that important to me to find a new one that fits but if you already did that then that makes it easy.
 
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Jeremygavin said:
I might follow your lead on this. The unit we have doesn’t even do microwave popcorn well so We don’t use it much. It wasn’t that important to my to find a new one that fits but if you already did that then that makes it easy.
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You have to remove the rubber feet other than that it’s a good fit. Manufacturer claims it needs space on each side but Sea Ray included the exhaust duct behind the microwave so I think we are good.
 
Gimme Time said:
Ok, here’s some data which is fresh from a lot of work done.

I had Cummins pull down both QSM11 engines raw water coolers, heat exchangers, replace one Aftercooler as the PO replaced on in December 2016. I didn’t really want to have 12 years difference in age of the Aftercooler.

We follows Cummins newest protcall as of April 2018. Pulled manifolds, heat shields, turbos and replaced both manifolds with new rather than sending out to be shaved flat and then fight to reinstall them. All new studs, new spacers, baskets which are really more like metal shims, turbo heat shields.

One of the first things I should note is the props where 28” 32 pitch when we started. The progression of pitch reduction has taken me to 28.5” and the results are as follows. Fully loaded with fuel, water, gear and personal belonging which includes a full liquor cabinet and Highfiled Ocean Master 390 Aluminum center console, full of furl with 40HP Honda on a Hurley H30+ Davit system.

Headed South to Key West run at this time in very calm seas at 2020 RPMs, Port & Starboard indicating 80% throttle with 64%-65% engine load, 20.8 & 21.4 Boost pressure, 20.4 & 20.1 GPH, EGT showing 975/980 degrees fluctuating and 22nmh+-.

Based on my last 20 months of working on the engines, props and running conditions I’ve come to the conclusion that this is about as good as I’m going to get, I can drop the tender off which all in weighs 725lbs.

The boat runs and planes fine. Obviously the extra tender weight is going to be more weight than most run with but I like having it with us all the time when we’re doing lots of outside running along the coast.

My observation about the EGT is you need to stay under 1,000 degrees and most problems seem temperature wise to be more common when running under 1800RPMs. You try and drop back to 1500-1800 to better match comfort when running in rougher water conditions your temperatures shoots up very quickly. Looks to me like I run much better around 2000RPMs than less.

I’ve made 4 pitch adjustments each time think I was going to see considerable change with the EGT dropping and have not found that to be the case. It almost seems like 950-985 is the normal running EGT range I see. I have no idea what you’d have to do to stay in the <900 degree range other than trawl around of operate in much colder northern waters during the summer time.

I’ve read everything I could fine that Tony has put out but this is what I am seeing and love to see & hear about what others are seeing?

John

PS, someone tell me how to post the pictures of the gauges and I’ll be happy to!
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John
Can you tell us what temperature your EGT exhaust run at say 900-1100 RPMs?
 
rlynch03 said:
Upgraded the Microwave today... Most of the numbers/buttons on the OE microwave had stopped working...

New unit is the Breville BMO870BSS1BUC1

Pretty easy upgrade

View attachment 100751
Click to expand...
Is it convection as well? We really use our convection feature on our original Panasonic...
 
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