500/520 DB official thread

I get the same occasional HI PS on the fwd stateroom. My pump runs four units (salon has two units on the 58). Ill check my pump in May when we are back up from FL. I'm sure I need to at least flush my lines.
As far as risers, mine were replaced in 2017 (my Man man said they last about 10 years and three were leaking, so i had him go on and replace all four - yes FOUR on the V-8 MAN's. D'Angelo did them in a few days for $2700 each. SS with black fiberglass wrapping.
 
I get the same occasional HI PS on the fwd stateroom. My pump runs four units (salon has two units on the 58). Ill check my pump in May when we are back up from FL. I'm sure I need to at least flush my lines.
As far as risers, mine were replaced in 2017 (my Man man said they last about 10 years and three were leaking, so i had him go on and replace all four - yes FOUR on the V-8 MAN's. D'Angelo did them in a few days for $2700 each. SS with black fiberglass wrapping.

Awe man... need to see some pictures of those Engines/Exhausts.

The ten year life span sounds about right. My SS exhaust straight pipes were leaking at 12yrs old and the risers were replaced 2-3 years ago.
 
Both my SS exhaust were replaced with fiberglass by PO. I got concerned and did research on them which I don’t have now about the temperature ratings. They exceeded the requirements and she’s made three trips to KW & back to the Chesapeake Bay with now problems. Since purchase in 2017 we’ve put 441hrs & 7420nm so I can attest to the fiberglass having been tested. I have Digital EGT temperature gauge on the dash as well as engine room camera. If you’re going to run off shore you want to know what’s going on with as much advanced notice as you can.

We’ve only had one trip interruption or delay in four years of cruising. The port side main battery died & killed the engine after pulling out into the current of the C & D canal heading home from our trip up around the LI sound. Not a pleasant feeling as that battery also fead the generator system which died as well. When that happens you’re limited to starboard engine & bow thruster to get to a dock. I now carry a HD set of jumper cables for emergency use. And no your emergency start operation will not start your port engine!
 
Nice!! Thanks. I thought that’s what Tom meant. Guess I’m buying a dremel. What about the washers? While I have it apart I’d like to replace them as well.
I have not found them available nor did them appear that they needed to be replaced, they are silicone and not just a rubber seal so I reused them with no issue.
 
Awe man... need to see some pictures of those Engines/Exhausts.

The ten year life span sounds about right. My SS exhaust straight pipes were leaking at 12yrs old and the risers were replaced 2-3 years ago.
I love these engines, but they have four turbos and four risers. So I just budget everything at X2...
 
I love these engines, but they have four turbos and four risers. So I just budget everything at X2...
A friend of mine just acquired a 550 with the MAN's. I was on their boat a couple of weeks ago and it was around 38 degrees out. When the boat was started I think it killed all the mosquitos in the marina. Normal to smoke so much in cold weather?
 
A friend of mine just acquired a 550 with the MAN's. I was on their boat a couple of weeks ago and it was around 38 degrees out. When the boat was started I think it killed all the mosquitos in the marina. Normal to smoke so much in cold weather?

The 550 most likely is not common rail like Carter's is and yes the older MAN's as with most large non-common rail engines smoke when cold and will do so until they get some heat in them.
 
Nice!! Thanks. I thought that’s what Tom meant. Guess I’m buying a dremel. What about the washers? While I have it apart I’d like to replace them as well.

my plumbing is 1/2" and bought a bunch of these
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-43721-VIEGA-1-2-PureFlow-Cone-Seal

but of course, you really wind up replacing the entire fitting like @ocgrant pictured above which should include the washer.

I swear, if i look at those fittings they start to leak...
 
A friend of mine just acquired a 550 with the MAN's. I was on their boat a couple of weeks ago and it was around 38 degrees out. When the boat was started I think it killed all the mosquitos in the marina. Normal to smoke so much in cold weather?

Those are the old mechanical ones. The newer Common rail ones have no glow plugs, no intake heaters, start after about 3 turns idle perfectly at 600 and have no smoke at any temp.
 
Their's is an 05.
The '05's had 800 HP mechanicals; the 900 CRM's were optional. the mechanical MAN's ran on 4 cylinder's after start (the larger V-10 mechanicals would run on 5 cylinders initially) and they smoked and sounded like "a bucket of hammers" at idle! the CRM's are velvet smooth - no partial cylinder shutdown.
 
Pumps? So you have the same size pump for the bridge unit and the other units?
I don't
For the bridge I have a March TE-5K-MD. 17 GPM with a 29 foot maximum head. The key here is a good flow rate but importantly being able to pump water up to the bridge.
The other three HVAC units are off a single Oberdorfer 104M which is 24 GPM. This pump pretty much runs 24/7 here in Florida.
Both have been replaced from original and uprated. However, don't go too crazy because that Cruisair pump relay can take only so many amps.
 
The '05's had 800 HP mechanicals; the 900 CRM's were optional. the mechanical MAN's ran on 4 cylinder's after start (the larger V-10 mechanicals would run on 5 cylinders initially) and they smoked and sounded like "a bucket of hammers" at idle! the CRM's are velvet smooth - no partial cylinder shutdown.
Thanks Carter - I was wondering what the heck that banging/ringing noise was at idle. Their mechanic said it was normal..
 
Just called deangelo marine. The exhaust tube is original. Manufacturered in 2004. Amazing they keep the records still. $475 will be done in 3 days. He says new one will last forever.
 
While looking at the exhaust pipe and cleaning the A/C strainer I noticed that it looks like my cutlass bearing has a slight drip to it....is there anyway this can be tightened or is it an automatic replace?
Also. Had the diver who cleans the bottom try to replace my main zinc and the bolt broke off....oh happy days!!!
 
While looking at the exhaust pipe and cleaning the A/C strainer I noticed that it looks like my cutlass bearing has a slight drip to it....is there anyway this can be tightened or is it an automatic replace?
Also. Had the diver who cleans the bottom try to replace my main zinc and the bolt broke off....oh happy days!!!

I believe your talking about the “Dripless Shaft Seal”. There should be a ring on the shaft with a spare seal inside of it. It is possible to replace it with out hauling the boat. I believe there are How To videos on the internet. Personally, I wouldn’t feel comfortable and have done it while the boat was on the hard.

The zinc bolt is something you may also need to get hauled for. I have always wired brushed the threads thoroughly before attempting removing the nut. It may be possible to put a coupling with a threaded rod ( if there are some threads projecting past the hull nut to temporarily hold the zinc until your next haul out. That would require adding a nut or two on the other zinc bolt to get the zinc to align on each bolt evenly.
 
That’s an interesting idea on the zinc bolt. Already made a reservation to haul the boat. Seminole Marina is 2 week lead time, they are busy.

Dripless shaft seal seems like a poor name, no?
 

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