- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Carter - can you share these pictures again? It sucks the forum lost all these photos.
Thank you
500/520 DB official thread
- Thread starter Havana Shamrock
- Start date
Thank you
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
I’m not sure what I sent - was it pictures of my cockpit fly?
But, did you replace the vacuflush hose with hard pipe?
I've still got knots on my head and scars all over.
That was the mac daddy in effort.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
I thought it was the bridge sunscreen you added.
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Here’s a pic of the cockpit fly and sunscreen that the PO had installed in Ft. ”Liquordale”.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Those are great and would like to add those but i was referring to the Bridge sun screen i thought you added to the inside of the Isenglass/Ez2cy glass to keep the interior of the bridge cooler.
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Ahhhh...they were made of shade material and cut to match the enclosure panels and attached with Velcro. Now that we are not in FL and in a covered slip at the Chattanooga Yacht Club, I've folded them up and put them under the aft bridge seat...
Can't really tell much from this picture...
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Fuel Coolers on our boats... Seems to fit the bill for removal based on Tony's opinion, see the link below... Thoughts?
Fyi - just realized as I prepared to relocate my port fuel cooler that I do not have one. From what I can tell my port motor never had one...Starboard motor does have one.
Fyi - just realized as I prepared to relocate my port fuel cooler that I do not have one. From what I can tell my port motor never had one...Starboard motor does have one.
Are you sure? It is buried under a giant bracket below that outer stringer. I'll see if I have a pic before I relocated mine.Fuel Coolers on our boats... Seems to fit the bill for removal based on Tony's opinion, see the link below... Thoughts?
Fyi - just realized as I prepared to relocate my port fuel cooler that I do not have one. From what I can tell my port motor never had one...Starboard motor does have one.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
I am, I didn't believe the mechanic and climbed back there myself. I also followed the hose coming off the Seacock and it goes right into the water pump. I am thinking of removing the starboard fuel cooler now...
I've read also on the elimination of the coolers. The only thing not answered in the tech articles is running a long distance with low fuel in the tanks. The importance of the fuel is it cools the ECM and injectors. When I make runs to the Bahamas the engines are pretty much constantly at around 1850 RPM and fuel level is around 1/4 when at the fuel dock there. But, I have no data at all to make such a decision.
Interesting though, if you look at the cooling plate for the ECM on the QSM11 engine there is a temperature sensor but it is not connected.
tshannoz
Member
- Jun 6, 2021
- 152
- Boat Info
- 500 Sedan Bridge 2005
- Engines
- 2x Cummins QSM-11s
I went with this style:
I’m also currently installing an RO system, hence the separate spicket. This faucet design has been a game changer for the functionality of the kitchen.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Thanks, we went with the attached Grohe. It has a pull out sprayer built in. Works so much better, the OEM was not working well anymore.
I like your blinds. Can you share a few more photos of them? It’s been on our list for a while.
Do you like the ones you have and who makes them?
For years I've had a cantankerous water leak around the water sump and down the tunnel under the floor in the hallway to the galley sump pump. It has always been sporadic, mysterious, and unpredictable until now.
I was sanitizing the water system and running water through all of the faucets. I had the floor hatch to access the sump and the master head faucet running water - there is was a trickle of water running down the tunnel.
Looking under the sink cabinet and down the access hole next to the shower everything is dry all the way to where the hoses (sink and shower) go through the deck to some area between the stringers.
Looking under the bathroom floor (you can see under there from the access hatch to the sump) - all is dry except for the area between the two starboard stringers is wet and that water is coming through the limber hole next to the sump. But all of the hoses and under bathroom floor area are dry. I had to see by sticking my Iphone in there and snapping pictures.
No leaks at all around the sump - it's dry and connections are dry.
It looks like the sink drain hose has a crack in some impossible to access location and water is running into the area between the stringers then into the tunnel.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to pull that sink drain hose out without cutting up the boat??
I was sanitizing the water system and running water through all of the faucets. I had the floor hatch to access the sump and the master head faucet running water - there is was a trickle of water running down the tunnel.
Looking under the sink cabinet and down the access hole next to the shower everything is dry all the way to where the hoses (sink and shower) go through the deck to some area between the stringers.
Looking under the bathroom floor (you can see under there from the access hatch to the sump) - all is dry except for the area between the two starboard stringers is wet and that water is coming through the limber hole next to the sump. But all of the hoses and under bathroom floor area are dry. I had to see by sticking my Iphone in there and snapping pictures.
No leaks at all around the sump - it's dry and connections are dry.
It looks like the sink drain hose has a crack in some impossible to access location and water is running into the area between the stringers then into the tunnel.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to pull that sink drain hose out without cutting up the boat??
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Ironic you just discovered and posted this today...I just dug into something similar yesterday.
I have had random water showing up in our laundry room bilge pump area since i have owned the boat. Such a pain to dry up back behind the washer/dryer. I think i tracked that down to the sump box has a leak when it is almost full or sloshing water around while running. I have tried to lower the float switch in the sump box to keep the static water level lower but that caused the pump to run constantly after being triggered. I may need to try that again but with a new float switch. The real issue is where that sump box is leaking. More work required. I also discovered the sump box "floor drain" inlets are mis-labeled. I understand why SeaRay changed the (drain hose) head sinks and showers to T-off rather than combining with the shower or sink and floor drain. If the floor backed up from being over loaded by the sink or shower it worse than the sink or shower floor backing up a little.
In all this I also have had (although less frequently than the laundry bilge) water showing up (very small amount also) in the two bulkhead compartments under the guest bath. This is coming from the guest sink area for the stern skinny bulk head. Could be rain water or more likely its the random hot and cold water fittings leaking under the sink.
I just traced the Guest Shower Drain line or connection is the culprit with the other large bulkhead getting water in there (maybe) similar issue to yours @ttmott.
Back to your issue @ttmott see pictures below. I assume you are referring to the Master Head sink drain line has the leak? I wonder if you can remove the T to gain more access to fit your arm and a long tool to remove any zip tie screws on the drain line, then disconnect the drain from the sink and push pull a new line through?
Attachments
I had saltwater accumulate in that area under the guest bath - it ended up being the porthole leaking because SR did a poor job cutting the hole in the hull. Pulled the porthole out and resealed it - problem resolved.
Yes the master head sink drain - water shows up around the sump in the tunnel. I always thought it was the sump overfilling. It looks like a sump leak but is definitely coming through the limber hole next to the sump box. The compartment between the starboard stringers under the master head has water in it. Water flows into the tunnel when the sink is running water.
I can't place the pictures you posted - this is looking down between the sink vanity and shower enclosure. The towel was a find from another time; I was able to fish it out. The large line disappearing to nowhere is the sink drain. The blue hose taking a right turn feeds the toilet fresh water, I believe.
It looks like there may be access behind the shower from the starboard guest stateroom - need to pull some panels and see.
It gets worse -
Pic 1 shows there the line goes under the shower enclosure and through the deck somewhere. Looking down the access hole inside of the sink vanity.
Pic 2 shows the line under the deck
Pic 3 shows the line going into the sump box.
The hose leak is on the other side of that bulkhead in Pic 2. Somehow I've got to pull that hose out and pull in another.
tshannoz
Member
- Jun 6, 2021
- 152
- Boat Info
- 500 Sedan Bridge 2005
- Engines
- 2x Cummins QSM-11s
Nice faucet. And here are more pics of our blinds. They were already done when we bought the boat and look a lot more modern.
Sorry, I cannot find a brand marking. They are chain driven and have two “overlapping” layers for privacy vs letting some sun in.
Also, I have been chasing small leaks around the boat as well. Especially after updating the kitchen faucet. The old Sea Tech fittings are frustrating to say the least and now that the brass fittings are 20 years old, I have decided to be more proactive. Have you guys seen this video?
I bought a 1/2” PEX crimper and so far so good with tightening up the old brass fittings. There are so many!
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Many of us have followed this repair process successfully. I ended up using the Pex SS Crimp Rings and Crimper rather than the SS Hose clamps. I think both are fine. The video is an interesting fix though...
Ends up the leaks are not from the cone seals but the crimped assembly. Here is the fix.
The plastic fittings are PEX 1/2" X 1/2" FNPT swivel adapters. Lowes has the Sharkbite brand in bags of 5 for around $10. The big problem is the Uniflex hose ID is larger than the OD of the PEX Adapter fittings that SeaTech used in the original crimped assembly. The material used to crimp it all together is brass and very soft. Over time the crimp relaxes and the hose internal lining hardens and the leaks occurs between the hose and the plastic barbed end. See the attached picture of one I took apart. The issue is, unless the valve manifold is to be changed the PEX adapters need to be used but the hose does not fit. So, cut the old PEX fitting off, heat up the end of the hose until soft with a heat gun, slide on a heavy duty worm drive clamp, insert a new PEX adapter and clamp the warmed hose down on the fitting. I used a ratchet to be able to really drive the clamp down and seat the hose on the barbs. Simple fix and works like a charm.
Those pics look strangely familiar. Re-crimping the brass ferrule looks to me as temporary as the brass will relax again even easier now and leak. Since I used the worm-gear hose clamps I have moved to Oetiker ear clamps. Heat the hose to soften and clamp it on existing or new fittings. Permanent.Many of us have followed this repair process successfully. I ended up using the Pex SS Crimp Rings and Crimper rather than the SS Hose clamps. I think both are fine. The video is an interesting fix though...
Ends up the leaks are not from the cone seals but the crimped assembly. Here is the fix.
The plastic fittings are PEX 1/2" X 1/2" FNPT swivel adapters. Lowes has the Sharkbite brand in bags of 5 for around $10. The big problem is the Uniflex hose ID is larger than the OD of the PEX Adapter fittings that SeaTech used in the original crimped assembly. The material used to crimp it all together is brass and very soft. Over time the crimp relaxes and the hose internal lining hardens and the leaks occurs between the hose and the plastic barbed end. See the attached picture of one I took apart. The issue is, unless the valve manifold is to be changed the PEX adapters need to be used but the hose does not fit. So, cut the old PEX fitting off, heat up the end of the hose until soft with a heat gun, slide on a heavy duty worm drive clamp, insert a new PEX adapter and clamp the warmed hose down on the fitting. I used a ratchet to be able to really drive the clamp down and seat the hose on the barbs. Simple fix and works like a charm.
