no plan
Member
Cherman
We replaced the transmission on the port engine, 1998 480 and did not need to remove the corner cabinet. Must be a design change with the newer 480's.
480 DB Owners Club
- Thread starter Four Suns
- Start date
Cherman
We replaced the transmission on the port engine, 1998 480 and did not need to remove the corner cabinet. Must be a design change with the newer 480's.
Cherman
Member
Thanks for the pics guys
Boltman, I found the screws but haven't pulled the cabinet yet. Waiting for the snow to melt more.
No Plan, Looks like there was a design change. Your hatch does not look like it goes under that cabinet.
Thanks again. And I will finish writing my removal procedure when I take the cabinet out.
Boltman, I found the screws but haven't pulled the cabinet yet. Waiting for the snow to melt more.
No Plan, Looks like there was a design change. Your hatch does not look like it goes under that cabinet.
Thanks again. And I will finish writing my removal procedure when I take the cabinet out.
jrpurse
New Member
- Dec 27, 2011
- 13
- Boat Info
- 2002 Sedan Bridge, AB Tender w/ Tohatsu 18hp
- Engines
- Cummins QSM-11
Re: Port Engine Hatch HELP
I'm about to lay the floor now. Just finished removing carpet etc. for access to the stbd engine for cooler maintenance and to replace the exhaust gasket. Decided to put in laminate flooring. I'll keep you posted.
I'm about to lay the floor now. Just finished removing carpet etc. for access to the stbd engine for cooler maintenance and to replace the exhaust gasket. Decided to put in laminate flooring. I'll keep you posted.
jrpurse
New Member
- Dec 27, 2011
- 13
- Boat Info
- 2002 Sedan Bridge, AB Tender w/ Tohatsu 18hp
- Engines
- Cummins QSM-11
With so much rain here in SW Florida we sprung a leak coming from the windshield with water pooling on the fiberglass decking behind the galley. An inspection of the windshield gasket near the lower corners shows them to be brittle and needing replacement (the likely source of the leak). Does anyone know where I can obtain replacement gaskets at a reasonable price? I'd like to avoid going to SeaRay if possible. The windshield is Taylor Made.
If you're DB has a similar windshield to my MY then I'm pretty sure your outer gasket is purely cosmetic...
The windows should be bedded, which means they probably need to be pulled and rebedded, then the cosmetic seals replaced.
Taylor Made has taken the stance of not selling to the public, forcing you to go to Sea Ray. I've been told that they will sell to you if the boat isn't a Sea Ray, but using the same windshield system (they sold them to other builders).....
The windows should be bedded, which means they probably need to be pulled and rebedded, then the cosmetic seals replaced.
Taylor Made has taken the stance of not selling to the public, forcing you to go to Sea Ray. I've been told that they will sell to you if the boat isn't a Sea Ray, but using the same windshield system (they sold them to other builders).....
jrpurse......
If you PM me a number and good time to call, I will do my best to assist you....remember though, I am with Sea Ray and I will not force you to anything you wish not to have.
Let me help if still needed, please sir.
Capt. Rusty
If you PM me a number and good time to call, I will do my best to assist you....remember though, I am with Sea Ray and I will not force you to anything you wish not to have.
Let me help if still needed, please sir.
Capt. Rusty
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
You may/should not need to pull and re-bed the glass. I fixed mine by surgically re-sealing on the outside at the leak spot with a black window sealant, after pulling off that dried shrunken trim. I then bought 55' of new trim through a Sea Ray dealer to replace the old trim. The cause of my leaks were the plastic tabs they used to hold the window into the frame. Over time some tabs would push up at an angle and push the factory sealant away from the window. The water would the get in the void and eventually weaken the sealant bond to cause a leak. Somewhere around here is a thread where we discussed this. By the way attempts to re-seal on the inside is useless. The window sits on a porous foam cushion. That is not a seal.
Joe440EB
New Member
:huh:
Finally got to take a nice run on my 480 for the first time after sending it south for the winter. Amazing ride from Miami to key west. Loved the way it ran and maneuvered around about 10,000 damn crab pots lol
Finally got to take a nice run on my 480 for the first time after sending it south for the winter. Amazing ride from Miami to key west. Loved the way it ran and maneuvered around about 10,000 damn crab pots lol
Last edited:
Joe440EB
New Member
dcpringle
Active Member
- Dec 13, 2012
- 492
- Boat Info
- 2000 Sea Ray 480DB "Diamond Girl"
- Engines
- Cat 3196 660HP
Congrats, wish i had ours in the water right now. Maybe one day...
Having some problems with my speakers on the radio up in the flybridge. Went to start troubleshooting wires under the dash and found that the radio will not power on. Boat is on the hard for the winter and for the life of me I can't remember where the DC power source is that feeds it. I don't recall ever having to turn a switch on. As long as battery switches were on, I had power to the radio. What am I missing. This is driving me crazy. Thanks for the help.
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,371
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
My bridge stereo does not have a separate switch, there is a DC switch in the panel but that only controls power to my salon stereo. I assumed mine was wired incorrectly by a previous owner but maybe they're all this way.
mquiet
Well-Known Member
My bridge stereo is wired the same way. Draws while DC is available. Salon stereo has breaker. Check in line fuse.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dcpringle
Active Member
- Dec 13, 2012
- 492
- Boat Info
- 2000 Sea Ray 480DB "Diamond Girl"
- Engines
- Cat 3196 660HP
Did you make sure the main battery feeds are on under the steps? Your bridge should be off the starboard battery.
mquiet
Well-Known Member
Any DB owners change the colors of he seats on the bridge. I need to redo mine by the end of the year and not sure I want to go with the white vinyl again.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cherman
Member
dstick, My stereo is powered by the electronics breaker found under the fly-bridge stairs. But I bet that's not the problem. I have had an issue with navigation lights and stereo speakers stop working and then work the next time. My problem was in the connector plugs found under the dash on the STBD side against the side wall. Next time I am down I can get the connector/plug numbers for you. It's the factory connections when they attach the fly-bridge to the salon/rest of boat. I started cleaning the plug due to it being full of corrosion. Then just ended up cutting the connector plug out and splicing the wires together. Don't think I will be removing the fly bridge any time soon.
Cherman
Member
OK I finished getting the hatches out and have started work on removing the coolers and heat exchangers.
So here is the process that I did to accomplish it. Sorry didn't do pics.
After removing the carpet and what I believe is a sound deadening mat.
**Starboard side**
Breakfast Bar removal:
· Mine to remove was 6 screws in the aft starboard cabinet of the bar. They screw into the board running beside the fridge.
· There was a bracket at the end of the bar and one on the aft side of it. You can see them because the carpet is removed. I marked them and removed them from the floor and from bar behind the carpet strip.
· Then just slide it out and move it out of the way.
STBD Engine hatch removal:
· Cut the caulk and clean out or at least make sure it’s not holding the hatch in.
· Remove the screws around the edge of the hatch
· In the engine room, I cut the foil tape down the seam between the 2 hatches.
· I removed the ¼-20 bolts securing the 2 hatches together.
· I unscrewed the top part of the 2 supports from the hatch. I will remove the rest of the support stand later.
· From the engine room I used my shoulder to lift the hatch breaking any of the seal that was left holding it.
· You will need help getting it out. It’s heavy.
Port side:
Electric sofa removal:
· I removed the drawer
· I removed the rope lighting
· Lower the sofa to the flat position
· I disconnected the power from the sofa.
· Remove the 4 screws holding the first cushion
· You can either remove the 4 screws holding the rear cushion (kind of hard to get to) or you can remove the screws holding down the L-brackets attached to the frame and tilt the frame to get to the rear cushion screws easier. Don’t forget to unscrew the wire ties for the sofa power and rope lights if in the way.
· Careful not to break off the trim piece running along the bottom of the sofa. Especially on the aft end, I pulled the frame out to tilt it so to clear that trim piece.
L shaped sofa removal:
· Remove lower cushion
· Remove the screws holding the back to the carpeted wall.
· Lift the back upwards. The back has about 4” long pins that align into holes on the back section.
· Remove the screws holding the frame to the floor.
· Remove the screws holding the frame back to the port wall. (to the right of the AC unit)
· Remove the cabinet door behind the sofa. Now you have to remove the 3 screws that hold the door assembly (Whole assy.) to get to the 3 screws hidden behind it. Remove them and the frame section should come out.
Cabinet removal
· This one was a little tricky. There were no screws attaching my cabinet to the aft bulkhead. The L shaped section of the sofa actually holds it in.
· The only other fasteners were at the other end of the cabinet/countertop by the panel that runs up the port side behind the sofa, to the dinette and further.
· There were three ribbed/finned fasteners like the ones you would find on a car door panel. The panel is held to that end of the cabinet/countertop by 3 of those fasteners into a 2” by 2” piece of wood running from the bottom to top of the 2 pieces. Once I figured it out, it was easy to pop apart and removed the cabinet/countertop out a one piece.
PORT Engine hatch removal:
· Cut the caulk and clean out or at least make sure it’s not holding the hatch in.
· Remove the screws around the edge of the hatch
· In the engine room, I cut the foil tape down the seam between the 2 hatches.
· I removed the ¼-20 bolts securing the 2 hatches together. (done in STBD directions)
· I unscrewed the top part of the support from the hatch. I will remove the rest of the support stand later.
· From the engine room I used my shoulder to lift the hatch breaking any of the seal that was left holding it.
· You will need help getting it out. It’s heavy.
So here is the process that I did to accomplish it. Sorry didn't do pics.
After removing the carpet and what I believe is a sound deadening mat.
**Starboard side**
Breakfast Bar removal:
· Mine to remove was 6 screws in the aft starboard cabinet of the bar. They screw into the board running beside the fridge.
· There was a bracket at the end of the bar and one on the aft side of it. You can see them because the carpet is removed. I marked them and removed them from the floor and from bar behind the carpet strip.
· Then just slide it out and move it out of the way.
STBD Engine hatch removal:
· Cut the caulk and clean out or at least make sure it’s not holding the hatch in.
· Remove the screws around the edge of the hatch
· In the engine room, I cut the foil tape down the seam between the 2 hatches.
· I removed the ¼-20 bolts securing the 2 hatches together.
· I unscrewed the top part of the 2 supports from the hatch. I will remove the rest of the support stand later.
· From the engine room I used my shoulder to lift the hatch breaking any of the seal that was left holding it.
· You will need help getting it out. It’s heavy.
Port side:
Electric sofa removal:
· I removed the drawer
· I removed the rope lighting
· Lower the sofa to the flat position
· I disconnected the power from the sofa.
· Remove the 4 screws holding the first cushion
· You can either remove the 4 screws holding the rear cushion (kind of hard to get to) or you can remove the screws holding down the L-brackets attached to the frame and tilt the frame to get to the rear cushion screws easier. Don’t forget to unscrew the wire ties for the sofa power and rope lights if in the way.
· Careful not to break off the trim piece running along the bottom of the sofa. Especially on the aft end, I pulled the frame out to tilt it so to clear that trim piece.
L shaped sofa removal:
· Remove lower cushion
· Remove the screws holding the back to the carpeted wall.
· Lift the back upwards. The back has about 4” long pins that align into holes on the back section.
· Remove the screws holding the frame to the floor.
· Remove the screws holding the frame back to the port wall. (to the right of the AC unit)
· Remove the cabinet door behind the sofa. Now you have to remove the 3 screws that hold the door assembly (Whole assy.) to get to the 3 screws hidden behind it. Remove them and the frame section should come out.
Cabinet removal
· This one was a little tricky. There were no screws attaching my cabinet to the aft bulkhead. The L shaped section of the sofa actually holds it in.
· The only other fasteners were at the other end of the cabinet/countertop by the panel that runs up the port side behind the sofa, to the dinette and further.
· There were three ribbed/finned fasteners like the ones you would find on a car door panel. The panel is held to that end of the cabinet/countertop by 3 of those fasteners into a 2” by 2” piece of wood running from the bottom to top of the 2 pieces. Once I figured it out, it was easy to pop apart and removed the cabinet/countertop out a one piece.
PORT Engine hatch removal:
· Cut the caulk and clean out or at least make sure it’s not holding the hatch in.
· Remove the screws around the edge of the hatch
· In the engine room, I cut the foil tape down the seam between the 2 hatches.
· I removed the ¼-20 bolts securing the 2 hatches together. (done in STBD directions)
· I unscrewed the top part of the support from the hatch. I will remove the rest of the support stand later.
· From the engine room I used my shoulder to lift the hatch breaking any of the seal that was left holding it.
· You will need help getting it out. It’s heavy.
Cherman
Member
dstick, I forgot to ask if you have a Bridge AC unit that is under the dash/console. It would be aftermarket. If you do then it's pretty much impossible to get to the connectors. I removed mine.
Also, my year has a fuse panel in the stbd. forward area under the dash that powers the Navigation electronics (IE: auto pilot and sounder) and my stereo. If the breaker isn't tripped under the stairs, then check to see if there is a fuse blown on that panel.
Hope this helps.
Also, my year has a fuse panel in the stbd. forward area under the dash that powers the Navigation electronics (IE: auto pilot and sounder) and my stereo. If the breaker isn't tripped under the stairs, then check to see if there is a fuse blown on that panel.
Hope this helps.
