mquiet
Well-Known Member
EZ2CY is the best. Agree, ever touch when cold out. The only downside is the cost.
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I had Makrolon and as it went bad, I replaced with all 40mil. I had an installer do the front 3 windows and I di the sides and aft section. I wish I stay d with Makrolon for the front, but would continue with the sides being 40mil. I used O'sea and really like the product.
Mike
Isotherm makes a matching Ref/Freezer Cruise 130 and 90 that are offered in DC only voltage or 120v/12/24v which I referred to as multitap
Rich
I have another thought to add to this. I currently have an inverter and I have a solar panel mounted on my flybridge ceiling. My inverter runs the frig,freezer, interior lights, outlets, water, and vacuflushes. Then out on the hook either overnight or just during the day I run my generator for the heat and AC. When traveling I run the generator for the same reason. So in reality I never use the inverter. In hindsight I feel it is a waste of space.Thanks for that Rich. I'm still deciding which way to go on this. I agree that changing out the units will likely be cheaper than installing an inverter. Hmmm. Gonna have to think on this for a while. Mike
On #1 I think when Cummins installs a QSM11 they put the specified amount oil in and then mark the the dip stick. Also seems like Tony wrote an article on QSM11 oil levels if my memory is correct.
#2 is a recall issue, contact Cummins w the ESN and they will tell you if it’s been done or needs to be. Gear oil cooler bracket. Seems like also there is a H/E bracket upgrade or recall to look into.
if you get the boat, get the props pitched right to get gph down (result is egt stays down) otherwise you’ll cook exhaust manifolds, elbow risers, exhaust gasket leaks, etc over time—many posts and articles on this. Once done, engines should be as good as any if maintained.
#1 I believe the manual says 9 gallons, I run 7.5
#2 As WDR stated, Cummins will upgrade the trans cooler bracket for free, also look for a cracked bracket holding the huge coolant tank and oil leaking from the front gasket near alternator. The gaskets can be replaced but the engines need lifted to do this.
#3 Some of us have had water enter around the lower rubrail caps (bullets) while underway but a good reseal fixes it.
Also, make sure the air cleaners have been replaced as the originals disintegrate and send screen material through the turbo. I would assume they've been replaced by now though on a ~20 year old boat.
As stated above look for signs of exhaust leaks around the manifold, run your hand behind it and along the stainless tubes as that's where the soot tends to stick. Also, pay attention to cruise RPM and fuel burn. If it's been over propped for ~20 years just know that an exhaust leak will show up at some point if not already. You should be propped at 20 GPH max at 2000 RPM to have a fighting chance.
Thank you for the reply!
I think the other bracket that needs to be swapped out is the coolant reservoir attachment bracket. Is that what you may be thinking of, or is the an issue with the H/E bracket as well?
As far as the props, I'll have a good look at the fuel consumption @ 2000 rpm during sea trail to see how far off it is from Tony's recommended 18.6GPH.
Not sure what year you're looking at but somewhere around 2001 the 480DB was changed to solid glass from the waterline to rubrail while still leaving coring below the waterline. I would assume the lower rubrail is high enough to be in solid glass. I just sealed mine up and never gave it more thought.
How long have you had the EZ2CY panels? Mine are from late 2017 and both rear lower corners have spider web cracks in the sharp angle bends.
Other than that the rear is holding up great.
They are repairing under warranty but the repair will include cutting the glass out of the corners and adding the white materials to span the corner.
Mike
Isotherm makes a matching Ref/Freezer Cruise 130 and 90 that are offered in DC only voltage or 120v/12/24v which I referred to as multitap
Rich
Rich, Have you made the switch to the Isotherm units, or are you still considering it? Has anyone else changed out the AC-only fridge/freezer units to dual voltage AC/DC? Seems like a great idea. Is there a downside?
Mike
EZ2CY is the best. Agree, ever touch when cold out. The only downside is the cost.
From my understanding and research into what I want to install - Ex2CY is Acrylic sheet which is "Plexiglas" with UV and other finishes applied. It has very limited elasticity and consequently doesn't do well in tight bends. I'm sure it can be bent and formed around a hot mandrel but then that is permanent and would be problematic in removing the enclosure. That bridge back corner, it seems, needs to be either a wide strip of canvas or the corner panels replaced with a vinyl like Strataglass.View attachment 94547 View attachment 94548 View attachment 94549 View attachment 94550 View attachment 94551 View attachment 94552
Do you have any sharp corners the EZ2CY glass bends around? I have several but two became an issue and cracked. Installer Taylor Custom Canvas made the first repair last fall under warranty. I didn’t love his repair but he repair/patch was clean and covered the vertical spider web cracks with the white canvas material used throughout. Looked ok and I was happy but then the cracks spread outside his patch and also to the other corner which he said was not going to fail the way the first one did...Taylor Canvas Co didn’t want to address the issue this time, as we moved 3hrs from there shop even though I was willing to drive them to him... a bit of a red flag if you ask me. Manufacturer Jeff Smith closer said he would make the repairs, he was 30 minutes from me and seemed like a good solution. He said he would replace the glass if needed or do a patch.
His repairs attached in the pictures are little disappointing. Glass corners (spider web cracks) were cut out and White materials added to span the gap and make the corner. Maybe ok if done well cleanly. Materials are not attached well in some spots, he used two pieces of Material on the Port Side and One piec on the starboard side, there are gaps, bubbles and i fear water will get between the material and the adhesive will pull away.
Manufacturer now says the corner was too sharp which caused the cracking. Although they never stated this before. Jeff Smith (Ez2CY) is full of excuses. We are 3 years in although the first cracks started at year 2.
What do you guys think? Live with it? Or fight it?[/QUOTE
From my understanding and research into what I want to install - Ex2CY is Acrylic sheet which is "Plexiglas" with UV and other finishes applied. It has very limited elasticity and consequently doesn't do well in bends. I'm sure it can be bent and formed around a hot mandrel but then that is permanent and would be problematic in removing the enclosure. That bridge back corner, it seems, needs to be either a wide strip of canvas or the corner panels replaced with a vinyl like Strataglass.