48 DA Owners Club

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All winterized and counting the days to spring now!!! :(
 
New Project…. Boat show special, seen unbelievable results so time to buy in.
 

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Jaybeaux said:
As a test, go down and change the anodes on the Starboard Aftercooler and the Port Heat Exchanger, and then ask the question again. I can't figure out how in the hell you get a wrench monkey back there, much less remove or re-install the After-cooler or Heat Exchanger.

If memory serves, I've heard numbers in the $3,000+ range....that is a really rough number.

Jaybeaux
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I just did the zincs on my QSC-500’s. Different boat, but the port side fuel cooler was quite a chore. I needed up with nasty bruises on the chest from wedging myself between the fuel tank and engine. The local shop said that it doesn’t take much longer to just remove it all. Took me 3 hours to do zincs on both engines. Half of that was on the forward fuel cooler zinc.

I would tackle the aftercooler service myself, or at least R&R them and let the shop do the internals. I’d make it a winter project and take my time.
 
Richard Carlisle said:
I just did the zincs on my QSC-500’s. Different boat, but the port side fuel cooler was quite a chore. I needed up with nasty bruises on the chest from wedging myself between the fuel tank and engine. The local shop said that it doesn’t take much longer to just remove it all. Took me 3 hours to do zincs on both engines. Half of that was on the forward fuel cooler zinc.

I would tackle the aftercooler service myself, or at least R&R them and let the shop do the internals. I’d make it a winter project and take my time.
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The port fuel cooler is outboard and under the raw water pump below the top of the stringer on the QSM11's - impossible to access unless removing the alternator and huge steel bracket above the cooler. Many of us with QSM11's moved the cooler on the other side of the engine - Here is how mine is mounted on the other side. You might look to see if it's possible on the QSC500's.
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I’ve been trying to research what exactly runs on the port battery. I know that the starboard battery feeds (most of?) the house, but not exactly sure about the port. I’m spec’ing a new Victron battery charger and I assume the starboard battery would benefit from more charging amperage than the port.

I’m looking at the Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 1+1 charger.

Anyone know? Thanks.
 
ttmott said:
The port fuel cooler is outboard and under the raw water pump below the top of the stringer on the QSM11's - impossible to access unless removing the alternator and huge steel bracket above the cooler. Many of us with QSM11's moved the cooler on the other side of the engine - Here is how mine is mounted on the other side. You might look to see if it's possible on the QSC500's.
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Wish I could relocate, but on the QSC the water pump to fuel/oil cooler to after cooler to heat exchanger are all plumbed together with hard piping. The only rubber hose is strainer to water pump and heat exchanger to exhaust elbow.
 
Richard Carlisle said:
Wish I could relocate, but on the QSC the water pump to fuel/oil cooler to after cooler to heat exchanger are all plumbed together with hard piping. The only rubber hose is strainer to water pump and heat exchanger to exhaust elbow.
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On the QSM11 engine there is an elbow on the suction side of the raw water pump. That elbow extends downward and between the stringer and oil pan; it's obscured. From that elbow is a short hose (like 6 inches) and clamps to the fuel cooler that is mounted to a large bracket above it. That short hose and clamps are not accessible which is a real problem; that fails and the boat goes down. So it is relatively easy to move the fuel cooler.
 
Part one of the install complete. 8 ultra sonic units bonded to the hull and hardware with supplied JB Weld Marine Epoxy

2 units bonded to the hull (one each on port and starboard) right at the forward berth entrance
2 units bonded to the hull (one each on port and starboard) right at the dripless coupling
2 units bonded to the transmission mounts (one each on port and starboard)
2 Units bonded to the Rudder Shafts (one each on port and starboard)

Next Step - Now the fun of pulling cable throughout the boat to the 2 controllers.

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ocgrant said:
Part one of the install complete. 8 ultra sonic units bonded to the hull and hardware with supplied JB Weld Marine Epoxy

2 units bonded to the hull (one each on port and starboard) right at the forward berth entrance
2 units bonded to the hull (one each on port and starboard) right at the dripless coupling
2 units bonded to the transmission mounts (one each on port and starboard)
2 Units bonded to the Rudder Shafts (one each on port and starboard)

Next Step - Now the fun of pulling cable throughout the boat to the 2 controllers.

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Do they have actual data to backup the claim that these work? Especially in salt water environments like Florida? I’m asking because there’s a YouTube channel i watch where a guy installed these and he was very disappointed with the result(s).
 
Blown284 said:
Do they have actual data to backup the claim that these work? Especially in salt water environments like Florida? I’m asking because there’s a YouTube channel i watch where a guy installed these and he was very disappointed with the result(s).
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I have seen the results first hand, they work but the install is the key. Having the right coverage and being bonded correctly seems to be the key factors.
 
Blown284 said:
Do they have actual data to backup the claim that these work? Especially in salt water environments like Florida? I’m asking because there’s a YouTube channel i watch where a guy installed these and he was very disappointed with the result(s).
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I’ve seen a few boats with these installed and they didn’t make a whole lot of difference. I think if you double the number of recommended transducers, they may work better, but then the cost doubles. Might be good down in FL where you hire a diver every 2 - 4 weeks, but up here in the Chesapeake I can short haul mid season and blow off the bottom for $500 if need be….or dive on it if I’m feeling ambitious.
 
Richard Carlisle said:
I’ve seen a few boats with these installed and they didn’t make a whole lot of difference. I think if you double the number of recommended transducers, they may work better, but then the cost doubles. Might be good down in FL where you hire a diver every 2 - 4 weeks, but up here in the Chesapeake I can short haul mid season and blow off the bottom for $500 if need be….or dive on it if I’m feeling ambitious.
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This year the tubeworms have been especially bad in our area. They are the worst, you can't just pop them off like a barnacle. We have to clean the hulls every three weeks when the water is warm. If this system will prevent tubeworms I'm in. Not my boat but this is what they look like -
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JB MARSHALL said:
I did the aftercoolers once on my own. I can say I did it, I can also say I will never attempt to do it again.

I paid for aftercooler and heat exchanger maintenance in 2022 with no issues to either $5,200. I would be happy to pay that every time
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I'm assuming that is for 2 engines? Anyone else want to chime in about what they've paid a pro to do the job??
 
ttmott said:
This year the tubeworms have been especially bad in our area. They are the worst, you can't just pop them off like a barnacle. We have to clean the hulls every three weeks when the water is warm. If this system will prevent tubeworms I'm in. Not my boat but this is what they look like -
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Tom I am with you. It is bad here also. Barnacles have also bloomed more this year. I will keep you posted
 
Darren C said:
I’ve been trying to research what exactly runs on the port battery. I know that the starboard battery feeds (most of?) the house, but not exactly sure about the port. I’m spec’ing a new Victron battery charger and I assume the starboard battery would benefit from more charging amperage than the port.

I’m looking at the Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 1+1 charger.

Anyone know? Thanks.
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Darren,

I know they are different boats, but on all mine, the stbd was the house and the port was the helm and bilge pumps...
 
Between a PM I got and the above (thank you dcwjd) it looks like $10-11K for 2 engines is the going rate. Anyone else care to tell us what they paid a professional to do the job?
 
Call Shore Power Solution on Kent Island.

410-827-7810

They have a slip right at their shop. Take the boat to them. You might get a “free trip” to the Bay out of it.

Jaybeaux
 
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