48 DA Owners Club

ttmott said:
Those are the water drain fittings for winterizing the valves. When the valve is open the cavity those plugs access is closed off and freezing water can crack the valve body. They can be changed to grease zirks but still water needs a path out of the valve ball cavity when winterizing. I changed mine to grease zirks which helped somewhat to free up the valve but I found that once the valve becomes very hard to cycle grease did little to really help. I actually disassembled one on my last boat to burnish the ball of buildup to get it to open and close. Then installed the grease zirks for maintenance. A couple of things I've learned about it -
Use only Metalube grease as that grease will not break down in a water environment.
Only lube the valve with it in the open position. If you lube it with the valve closed you will only fill up the valve port and end up messing up the raw water pump with grease as well as migrating grease up into the coolers / heat exchangers.
When winterizing with the boat and grease zirks installed ensure the valve is 50% closed/open so that cavity can drain.
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@ttmott what do you have for a source for a tube of metalube. doesn't look like they sell it direct anymore
 
ttmott said:
Those are the water drain fittings for winterizing the valves. When the valve is open the cavity those plugs access is closed off and freezing water can crack the valve body. They can be changed to grease zirks but still water needs a path out of the valve ball cavity when winterizing. I changed mine to grease zirks which helped somewhat to free up the valve but I found that once the valve becomes very hard to cycle grease did little to really help. I actually disassembled one on my last boat to burnish the ball of buildup to get it to open and close. Then installed the grease zirks for maintenance. A couple of things I've learned about it -
Use only Metalube grease as that grease will not break down in a water environment.
Only lube the valve with it in the open position. If you lube it with the valve closed you will only fill up the valve port and end up messing up the raw water pump with grease as well as migrating grease up into the coolers / heat exchangers.
When winterizing with the boat and grease zirks installed ensure the valve is 50% closed/open so that cavity can drain.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much! Great advice and info. Mine goes into heated storage so no freezing risk.
 
ric992 said:
Hi, I have stayed on anchor many times while generator running and no problems. Last night was anchored with genetic running, when I woke up it shut off within 30 minutes. When I went to sleep had half a tank of fuel in both tanks. When it shut off I noticed port rank was full and starboard was empty. I went on one engine to fill starboard and it was completely empty. How did this happen from around 8pm to 7am?? Thanks for any input. BTW I did change the switch to use fuel from opposite rank, but I always try and alternate tanks when using generator on the anchor for several days...
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I did the same thing you did one night on the hook. Something to think about is wonder if we had both tanks at 3/4 full and we did that? I'm thinkin we would pump a lot of fuel overboard?
 
Morgan Jane said:
the same thing you did one night on the hook. Something to think about is wonder if we had both tanks at 3/4 full and we did that? I'm thinkin we would pump a lot of fuel overboard?
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I'd bet you would, I don't think there is anything to prevent that from happening automatically.
Scary actually!
 
Shaps said:
Put them away full
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Hey Shaps, do you store on land or water, just thinking would the extra weight of the fuel could have any impact if left on land... 1 gallon of diesel weights 7 pounds 400 gallons equal 2800 pounds
 
rodrigoroa said:
Hey Shaps, do you store on land or water, just thinking would the extra weight of the fuel could have any impact if left on land... 1 gallon of diesel weights 7 pounds 400 gallons equal 2800 pounds
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On Land.
Edit:
I do Franks diesel fuel cocktail of biocide, power service diesel kleen + cetane boost and stanadyne's lubricity additive. But I do that for every fill up, so nothing special there for me.


PXL_20230515_122457447~2.jpg
 
Hey group, would you pay someone to do the aftercoolers and heat exchangers or would you do them yourself?
 
rodrigoroa said:
Hey group, would you pay someone to do the aftercoolers and heat exchangers or would you do them yourself?
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As a test, go down and change the anodes on the Starboard Aftercooler and the Port Heat Exchanger, and then ask the question again. I can't figure out how in the hell you get a wrench monkey back there, much less remove or re-install the After-cooler or Heat Exchanger.

If memory serves, I've heard numbers in the $3,000+ range....that is a really rough number.

Jaybeaux
 
I know its not an easy task to change those anodes because of the exhaust tube being on the way and the tight space in there, I think unless the exhaust tube comes off its a mission impossible to do aftercoolers or heat exchangers...
 
rodrigoroa said:
Hey group, would you pay someone to do the aftercoolers and heat exchangers or would you do them yourself?
Click to expand...


I did the aftercoolers once on my own. I can say I did it, I can also say I will never attempt to do it again.

I paid for aftercooler and heat exchanger maintenance in 2022 with no issues to either $5,200. I would be happy to pay that every time!
 
JB MARSHALL said:
I did the aftercoolers once on my own. I can say I did it, I can also say I will never attempt to do it again.

I paid for aftercooler and heat exchanger maintenance in 2022 with no issues to either $5,200. I would be happy to pay that every time!
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Thanks JB, I spoke to a Cummins tech yesterday, he will do the 1k service for me and besides the after coolers and Heat exchangers he will do the valve adjustment, belts and transmission cooler...I like to do stuff by myself but I will pass on this job seems to easy for me lol, thanks everyone for the feedback!!!
 
rodrigoroa said:
Thanks JB, I spoke to a Cummins tech yesterday, he will do the 1k service for me and besides the after coolers and Heat exchangers he will do the valve adjustment, belts and transmission cooler...I like to do stuff by myself but I will pass on this job seems to easy for me lol, thanks everyone for the feedback!!!
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Fair warning I did this one year ago. It turned out to be quite a hefty bill.
 
I really hate to ask this question here because I'm sure it's been answered dozens of times, but I've googled and googled this thread and can't find the answer.

Is there a quick overview of the major year over years of the 48 Sundancer production run?
 
Sad day in boating paradise... I am all winterized up. I have been off the boat for 24 hours and I'm already heading into winter depression. Time to start booking flights to warmer areas to watch others go boating :)
 
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