48 DA Owners Club

Can you post some pics of the dinghy on the freedom lift. How does the boat ride with it on that far back? Any pics of the lift out of the water?
Here are a couple I could find. It rides well, but I do sinch it down tight and if rough water run a line or two back to the cleats to keep it from bouncing around too much. My last boat (Tiara 40) had a hydraulic swim platform which kept it closer but of course left no room for using the swim platform while RIB on it. Everything is a trade off. The PO had the Freedom Lift put on. It probably hits the speed by a MPH and I do run full tabs when it is on the lift... although I run full tabs all the time anyway. It does cause the boat to list a bit to the right, the 40hp plus fuel is all on the one side so it's kind of expected. I'd day about an inch lower on the stbd vs port. A smaller RIB would likely not cause this.

The one pic is from the Cheboygan River lock, they list it as 16x60 max, I was using all if it!

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Any pics of the bracket assembly on the hard. What to see it mounted to the stern.
 
Any pics of the bracket assembly on the hard. What to see it mounted to the stern.

I don't, but will try to remember to get some when it gets pulled out. Their website has a bunch of pics.

Basically a big plage on each side of the transom through bolted and on the indisde there is a cable that is tight to a stringer to handle the twisting/torque of the long lever arm.
 
Any pics of the bracket assembly on the hard. What to see it mounted to the stern.
This is a 44DB. Owner #1 removed the Freedom Lift. I am owner #3. Thinking about making a carrier that attaches to the freedom lift brackets.

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Reason I ask is I have a buddy who took one off a 65' yacht that was installed in 2020 and I can have it complete for $5k. I just don't think this will work on my boat as it looks like his was bracketed to the transom and and integrated swim step to support it. Where as on the 48 you only mount it to the transom so the bracketing is different from all the info I can find. Deal is incredible but won't work so....no go

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Reason I ask is I have a buddy who took one off a 65' yacht that was installed in 2020 and I can have it complete for $5k. I just don't think this will work on my boat as it looks like his was bracketed to the transom and and integrated swim step to support it. Where as on the 48 you only mount it to the transom so the bracketing is different from all the info I can find. Deal is incredible but won't work so....no go

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I agree with you and can say that it doesn't look anything like that. The plate to the transom is much larger and nothing hooks to platform.
 
Can you post some pics of the dinghy on the freedom lift. How does the boat ride with it on that far back? Any pics of the lift out of the water?
Here is a pic of the attaching to the stern. Every time I look at it I'm a bit scared... sure seems like a huge lever arm out there with 800lbs moving up and down in rough water...
 

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Here is a pic of the attaching to the stern. Every time I look at it I'm a bit scared... sure seems like a huge lever arm out there with 800lbs moving up and down in rough water...
I agree... sticking that far out with the load sure seems like a lot of force placed on the transom.
 
I agree... sticking that far out with the load sure seems like a lot of force placed on the transom.

I think I mentioned in a previous post, there is a bracket on the inside with a similar footprint and on the top of the bracket there is a cable with turnbuckle at a 45 degrees up to a floor "joist" (whatever it is called on a boat). That provides the structural triangle for the long lever arm. It's been in there 8 years or so since PO had it installed, no visible issues. I do strap the rib to the arms tight and also if rough strap the cc or the rib back to the corners of the boat if in rough conditions.

My tiara had the platform that would lower. Better in some ways but couldn't even open the transom hatch unless lowered platform if rib was in it.
 
I think I mentioned in a previous post, there is a bracket on the inside with a similar footprint and on the top of the bracket there is a cable with turnbuckle at a 45 degrees up to a floor "joist" (whatever it is called on a boat). That provides the structural triangle for the long lever arm. It's been in there 8 years or so since PO had it installed, no visible issues. I do strap the rib to the arms tight and also if rough strap the cc or the rib back to the corners of the boat if in rough conditions.

My tiara had the platform that would lower. Better in some ways but couldn't even open the transom hatch unless lowered platform if rib was in it.
Ok so they tie it inside to the stringers to give the transom support. That makes more sense.
 
Good morning, my two main engine seacocks are very difficult to move to shut off. It looks like there is a small fitting on the side. Is that where you would grease it? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

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While I’m at it, also looking for suggestions on the best replacement fresh water pump. This is my current pump which is not original and had been replaced by the previous owner.
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Good morning, my two main engine seacocks are very difficult to move to shut off. It looks like there is a small fitting on the side. Is that where you would grease it? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

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Yes, remove that fitting and screw in a grease fitting.
 
Hi, I have stayed on anchor many times while generator running and no problems. Last night was anchored with genetic running, when I woke up it shut off within 30 minutes. When I went to sleep had half a tank of fuel in both tanks. When it shut off I noticed port rank was full and starboard was empty. I went on one engine to fill starboard and it was completely empty. How did this happen from around 8pm to 7am?? Thanks for any input. BTW I did change the switch to use fuel from opposite rank, but I always try and alternate tanks when using generator on the anchor for several days...
 
Hi, I have stayed on anchor many times while generator running and no problems. Last night was anchored with genetic running, when I woke up it shut off within 30 minutes. When I went to sleep had half a tank of fuel in both tanks. When it shut off I noticed port rank was full and starboard was empty. I went on one engine to fill starboard and it was completely empty. How did this happen from around 8pm to 7am?? Thanks for any input. BTW I did change the switch to use fuel from opposite rank, but I always try and alternate tanks when using generator on the anchor for several days...
Check that you have selected the generator fuel selector to the same side.
I'm guessing your source is starboard and return is port.
The selector is located on the port side behind the transom door.
 
Hi, I have stayed on anchor many times while generator running and no problems. Last night was anchored with genetic running, when I woke up it shut off within 30 minutes. When I went to sleep had half a tank of fuel in both tanks. When it shut off I noticed port rank was full and starboard was empty. I went on one engine to fill starboard and it was completely empty. How did this happen from around 8pm to 7am?? Thanks for any input. BTW I did change the switch to use fuel from opposite rank, but I always try and alternate tanks when using generator on the anchor for several days...
I did something similar once, basically genny is using from one tank and the return is set to dump fuel to the other. On these engines they have a return fuel line (not like most cars now with deadheaded high pressure fuel line). The setup allows you to blance fuel across tanks if needed.
 
Thank you I did have in and return set differently, I'm sure I have done this before. But moving 100 gallons overnight seemed hard to believe it was this. Guess it has to be that. So always have feed in and return to same tank. I won't make that mistake again
 
Thank you I did have in and return set differently, I'm sure I have done this before. But moving 100 gallons overnight seemed hard to believe it was this. Guess it has to be that. So always have feed in and return to same tank. I won't make that mistake again

Just tell everyone you were polishing your diesel fuel...

In my case, the diesel pump at the marina burst it's hose (what a mess on the dock) so no way to put any in the 2nd tank. I took off with genny on and watching the levels, having the return to the other tank allowed me to get to the next port. I hadn't thought about it until now, I guess that means the amount of return fuel is more that the main engine was using.
 
Good morning, my two main engine seacocks are very difficult to move to shut off. It looks like there is a small fitting on the side. Is that where you would grease it? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

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Those are the water drain fittings for winterizing the valves. When the valve is open the cavity those plugs access is closed off and freezing water can crack the valve body. They can be changed to grease zirks but still water needs a path out of the valve ball cavity when winterizing. I changed mine to grease zirks which helped somewhat to free up the valve but I found that once the valve becomes very hard to cycle grease did little to really help. I actually disassembled one on my last boat to burnish the ball of buildup to get it to open and close. Then installed the grease zirks for maintenance. A couple of things I've learned about it -
Use only Metalube grease as that grease will not break down in a water environment.
Only lube the valve with it in the open position. If you lube it with the valve closed you will only fill up the valve port and end up messing up the raw water pump with grease as well as migrating grease up into the coolers / heat exchangers.
When winterizing with the boat and grease zirks installed ensure the valve is 50% closed/open so that cavity can drain.
 

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