48 DA Introduction

Little Victor said:
i have engaged the ac pump before turning on the cabin units. They don't kick on the pump like the cockpit unit does. They all worked fine at sea trial but I think I ran them all at once.

The sump has not over flowed for me but I remember your write up. Before commissioning I threw a couple Cascade enzyme dishwasher tabs in there. The sump was black and now it's almost clean. I'll do another round of washer tabs and see how it goes. I'm new to the sump box world. I thought of putting in a half tab of a hot tub bromine tab to keep it clean as maintenance but the washer tabs did better than expected.

i did see signs of where at some point in history the sump over flowed and I'll change it out to your suggested pump. Just adding it to the list.
Bob
Click to expand...
Bob,
One thing you need to understand about this boat is the sump issue. Every 48 has it. You can have a working sump, clean as a whistle and a bone dry bilge. Take it out for a weekend and in a few days, the boat tipping up on plane will spill water out the sump overflow hose into the rearmost cabin bilge compartment, where the bilge pump is. That compartment is isolated from the central cabin bilge. Your central cabin bilge will be dry as a bone as the rear cabin bilge slowly builds up with overflow from the sump every time you go on plane until it reaches a level that triggers the alarm. That will always happen at the scariest moment in bad weather and rough seas. The only solution is to change the sump pump with an all in one sump/float or to replace the float with a Water Witch.

I do use bromine tabs and even a half toilet bowl chlorine disc in the sump. It helps. The degreaser you pour in just gets pumped overboard. You have to get in there at the beginning of the season with a toothbrush and some degreaser like Simple Green and scrub it clean. The bromine or chlorine tabs will keep in clean for the season. It's still going to spill over into the rearmost salon bilge compartment every time you go on plane. to clean it out, don't do it via dehumidification. Get a car wash sponge and a bucket. After a season of doing that, you'll retrofit your sump.

You have 4 breakers for the AC - forward cabin, salon, cockpit, AND compressor. The compressor needs to be on. Having the cockpit AC on will not trigger the compressors for the forward cabin and salon.
 
Understood. I wouldn't have thought about overflow into the back bilge but now I understand. Ok I absolutely have no problem with a cheap and easy for the sump. Thank you for taking the time to help.

It has been hard to find time with young toddlers at home but I will update after I take a look again.

Bob
 
This is f- driving me nuts. Can't find out how water got in aft stateroom carpet near opening of washer. No way did the sump over flow or was there any water in front of the washer. Running washer now and nothing, trying to make it drain after running it for 15 min.




got up on plane and a cup full of water spilled on the carpet? It just doesn't make sense unless the drain from the washer is the problem
 
The drain for the washer drains into the sump pump. I think you are right about it being the washer, there is nothing else in that area that would cause the carpet to get wet. Like others have mentioned, I would pull the washer out and check the connections. You gotta love boating, it's always something.
 
Forget the overflowing sump. That was most likely your issue with the high water alram. But no way a sump UNDER and salon floor would soak a carpet 2 feet higher than the sump.

There are 5 water sources in the aft interior of the 48DA: Washer,Vanity Sink, Shower, Head. and the AFT A/C unit inside the bulk head when you slide the aft bed to starboard. Since this is a carpet soaking, it means water running on the "surface" Check the a/c drip pan. Lint can clog the drain tube (that also drains into the sump) and then the pan over flows and soaks the carpet.

Rich
 
CORRECTION

There are 6 water sources. The A/C unit I described prior is the living room unit. The aft statroom unit is under the aft bunk. Check the unit inside the bulkhead when you slide the forward bunk over. same general location as the washer.

sorry
Rich
 
ABSOLUTELY! No matter how small, you'll always be a little aggravated, especially if you have done everything imaginable to prevent issues. The vast majority are very minor, and easy/cheap to remedy. Take deep breaths, have your wallet ready (hahaha), and enjoy all of it.

"Hopefully you are all in agreement, any boat, especially used, will have some issues that pop up as you get to know your boat. I'm glad mine are all minor."
 
Thanks guys. I'll pull tha aft tv and look at the shower connections and check the air pan. I left the water pressure on and can't reproduce the leak. It probably is a small leak that builds up and runs aft when getting on plane. I'll look again this afternoon, time permitting.
 
Well, I couldn't reproduce the leak onto the carpet in the aft stateroom even when taking up to plane. I think I need to relax a little, ie ziekman. Thanks.

On the brighter side I took out the family for a ride and anchored for a few hours. They loved it and now call it the fun boat. I'm happy with that and I'll relax about the couple small issues that bugged me.
 
Look at the ac drain line and around the drain pan. The line gets kinked, or clogged-up, and the water extends over the pan. Happened on our boat.
 
Hey guys, it has been a season and a half with Little Victor and we have had a wonderful time with a great boat. Sorry I haven't responded but so it goes with raising a family.

The bilge full of water has never occurred again and I assume it was from something from the washer or something the previous owner did. Looked behind the washer and found a small drip at the hose connection and was able to reach back and tighten it. That may have been the problem because there has not been any water sign since.

The air conditioner problem was due to a blown impeller pump for the whole system. Replaced it and everything has been perfect.

The wiper was simply a loose nut on the blade arm.

I have had intermittent high readings on the cummins readout about high boost pressure. Restarting the engine corrected the problem. Same thing with a high read on engine load but I'm still looking in to that. Corrected on restart.

I have the Racor filter change down, changed the belts, and next project is to change the on engine fuel filters. Not sure how to prime them.... I know not to pour fuel in the 2 microns filters but do you screw them on completely and prime with fuel pump a few times or leave them cracked and prime so fuel spills. Not sure about the engine being self primed. I'll look at the manuel tomorrow if I get to it.

Thank you again for your earlier responses.

Bob
 
Priming the secondary fuel filters:
1. Put on dry
2. cycle ignition on to accessory position so you can hear the fuel pump prime for ~10 seconds until it stops
3. cycle off the ignition
4. repeat #2 and #3 12 times
5. uncrew the filter to see if you have fuel all the way to the top and running out as you unscrew
6. if not repeat #2 and #3 five more times and repeat #5
7. when you have fuel all the way to the top and spilling out when you unscrew, start the engine and throttle up to 1,000 RPM until it runs smooth
 
What are your engine serial numbers? I have Cummins Quickserve access since I work with Cummins as an engine supplier daily. I can see if I can help with diag.
 
Thanks guys,

I'll change the filters tonight if I have time

Port engine No. 46622498 Star. 46622493

Cummins QSB 8.3
 
Bob, are you getting fault codes listed in the display when you get the high engine load and boost pressure warnings?
 
No error codes popped up. I think it is an sensor/electrical issue. Occasionally while in gear and idle, the readout says my boost pressure is around 14. The turbo isn't running at idle...can't hear it. Upon restart everything is back to normal.

Bob
 
Finished all but generator and starboard filter changes this morning. I had to crack the seal on the primary filter to get the pump to fill it.

Actually here is how it went:

Turned both Racor fuel lines to off. Drained all bowels of black stuff (not much). Filters looked pretty good. Filled racers back up with fuel. Took port primary off engine. Put new one on and tried to prime by cycling fuel pump but could only get filter half full or less. Tried starting engine and no luck. Tried full throttle start with no luck. Gave up and went home defeated. Woke up at 4:30 and immediately realized I didn't turn the fuel selector back on. Went to boat, turned fuel back on, cracked the primary seal, wrapped filter with paper towels and filled the primary. Engine started and I'm no longer defeated.

Thank you for the direction JV II

Bob
 
You are welcome. You are very lucky you didn't air lock the engine. You should know the procedure to correct an air lock, which is a bit more involved than the procedure to replace the filter. I've never had to use it because I have more fear of air lock than death.
 
You are right. I've practiced removing injectors on small diesels and purging them. I screwed up but got lucky.
 
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