44DB shaft zincs

JNMNL52

Member
Feb 13, 2011
68
Annapolis; Chesapeake Bay
Boat Info
2006 44 Sedan Bridge, Blue Hull, SRN II, Raymarine E120, Hurley Davit
Engines
Cummins QSC-500's
Are propeller shaft collar zincs necessary when operating in a salt water environment given the Searay hull anode system?
 
Some say yes, some say no. I have been using them on my 340. Will use them on a 44DB, hopefully very soon.
 
Best thing is to install shaft brushes inside the boat and wire it to the bonding system. Defender has them for twenty bucks and never worry about if they slipped down of fly off underway.
:)
 
Best thing is to install shaft brushes inside the boat and wire it to the bonding system. Defender has them for twenty bucks and never worry about if they slipped down of fly off underway.
:)

I do plan on looking into this system - good point.
 
Best thing is to install shaft brushes inside the boat and wire it to the bonding system. Defender has them for twenty bucks and never worry about if they slipped down of fly off underway.
:)

I've always used two zincs per shaft but have looked at the shaft brush system. I've wondered a couple of things about this set up. Are there any issues with a concentrated contact point for any stray current to be discharged through? Are those brushes replaceable or do you replace the whole assembly when the brush is worn. What's the frequency of replacement? Is there any apparent wear on the shaft where the brush makes contact? Lastly, how does the brush maintain contact with the shaft as it wears? Inquiring minds want to know. :huh:
 
I have confirmed (not once, but twice) with SeaRay that these are not required on this boat per their specs. I guess it can't hurt to have the shaft zincs... until you throw one.

If I were in nasty salt water, instead of the dewy-sweet Sassafras River, I would reconsider it and probably have them.
 
shaftbrush.jpg


I have been meaning to install these these things on my boat forever.
The long part get screwed to a part of the boat and the brush is then spring loaded to ride on the shaft. I have seen them installed (from the factory) on the Formula brand boats. Then jump a grounding wire to the bonding system.
Never heard of one wearing out.
On my to do list...
 
I have confirmed (not once, but twice) with SeaRay that these are not required on this boat per their specs. I guess it can't hurt to have the shaft zincs... until you throw one.

If I were in nasty salt water, instead of the dewy-sweet Sassafras River, I would reconsider it and probably have them.

Well, I'm not sure if our water qualifies as nasty, but it is definitely salty. I've used two zincs per shaft for the last seven seasons and have never had one thrown....but I guess it's a possibility. I've seen some pretty nasty shaft corrosion and prefer the protection shaft zinc provide...needed or not. Happy Festivus for the restivus:smt038
 
I've had one ride down the shaft to the Cutlass bearing. Didn't do any damage, but could have.
 
Why do they move down the shaft? I would think that if they are a proper fit and are tightened down that they wouldn't. Do they erode on the inside and become loose? Bolts loosen from vibration? Just wondering.
 
Why do they move down the shaft? I would think that if they are a proper fit and are tightened down that they wouldn't. Do they erode on the inside and become loose? Bolts loosen from vibration? Just wondering.

They corrode 360 degrees. They may work their way loose and slide aft.
 
My concern is not with the zinc collars moving; it just seems redundant to have them when Searay has a centralized ANode system already installed. When I took delivery of the boat it did not have zinc collars on the shafts. Also, does the placement of the zinc collars interfere in any way with the water flow in front of the propellers. IT seems to me it has the potentila to cause cavitation making the props less efficient at any speed.
 
I have confirmed (not once, but twice) with SeaRay that these are not required on this boat per their specs.
I was told the same thing by Sea Ray. Everyone else in the industry says to put them on.

I've had one ride down the shaft to the Cutlass bearing. Didn't do any damage, but could have.
I had that happen also. I guess it's time to look into the brushes.

RB
 
I agree that they are not necessary considering the anode system. I haven't seen any signs of electrolysis without them. Working at my dads marina as a kid, I changed hundreds of shaft zincs on boats without the anode system and dont' recall them ever sliding down. They definately corroded on the outside perimeter and the inside face against the shaft showed minimal decay. I dont know the reason, maybe because it is exposed to the elements. Typically, I would have to tap the old zincs being removed with a hammer just to break it loose from the shaft. Its important to make sure that when you install a shaft zinc, it is tightened evenly alternating the tightening process so it sits properly on the shaft.
 
I have used shaft zincs for several years on my 44DB however I always have them installed when the boat is hauled and make sure the are tapped with a hammer and tightened securely. Have not lost one yet.
 
Finally installed brushes on my boat.
The 8ga. green bonding wire is grounded to the ships hull zinc.
I painted the springy copper strap with clear coat and covered the connections with liquid electrical tape.
I've never had any electrolysis problems and have never used shaft zincs but, always wanted to add these.
(hope they don't saw through the shaft!)

7F206312-A204-4D7D-9DA3-FABE80E2EC3D-26352-00004C3527575AE9_zps17e99080.jpg


A5644918-41B3-4F0B-8FF6-01E1CED72454-26352-00004C3531DA58F4_zpsafe39484.jpg
 
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