420/44 DB Owners Club

CAMELLA said:
There should be a breaker for the windlass down in the engine room on the forward wall.
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That is what I thought too. The first place I looked was the breaker panel on the port side forward of the batteries. I could not find a breaker labeled for the windlass, and only one was tripped, and it was labeled for the oil change pump (which I reset).

I looked at the paper manual onboard which was not much help, I'll check the electronic version and see if I can find the breaker.

Scott
 
The windlass breaker on my boat is in the gray enclosed box. Port side under engine hatch ladder. You will have to screw it open, it contains all the main solenoids.
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sb in gp said:
Windlass question:

Used the Windlass for the first time today. Set the anchor fine. When I got the anchor about 80% retrieved the windlass stopped. Had to retrieve the anchor with the manual lever. There are two switches at the helm, one is power and the other operates the windlass. The little light on the power switch will no longer light up. I searched everywhere for a fuse and can't find it. Hopefully someone can help. Leaving on an 8 day trip on Thurs with 3 girls aboard, so I need the windlass.

Thanks,

Scott
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NewFreedom described the correct spot for the breaker, it's in the ER grey control box where all main solenoids are. It's about 3rd or 4th from the right. Unscrew the block knobs bolts and the cover gets free to lift.

Finding and resetting the breaker is simple, the question is why did it pup? From my experience it usually happens when the windlass gets overloaded. For example, if a captain just presses the button and waits for the anchor to show up in pulpit, this is just a matter of time before the breaker pups. The best way to do it is in increments. Click the button to retrieve the anchor and hold it for 20-30 seconds. Then let it go. The boat will start getting momentum moving forward towards the anchor and loosen the tension. Click the button and hold again for 20-30sec, you'll see the tension on the chain/line again, then let go. Repeat until the anchor is under the boat (straight down) and there's not much tension on the line. Usually, as you get closer to the 30'-20' marks the windlass gets more rest while the chain gets washed (this obviously applies only to those who care to wash their rig).

Also, keep in mind that on the windy days, one will need to assist with engines to minimize tension on the line while retrieving the anchor.

I don't know what was the trigger for your breaker to pup, but if you follow the method I described, this should minimize the issue.
 
Thanks guys. I saw that breaker, but it did not look like it was tripped. I'll look again tonight and report back.

I was using the engines to move the boat over the anchor, but I think the finger spring may be sticking a little and the line may have jumped and jammed for a second at the rope-chain coupling when it was coming in.

I also ordered a new stainless finger from Imtra because I noticed that it still had the original crappy plastic one. For others - if you have a Lofrans 1000 with a plastic finger you should replace it before it breaks, if you call Imtra ((508) 995-7000) they'll give you a $30 discount ($69 vs $99) if you complain a bit since the plastic finger is a clear defect.

Scott
 
Scott,

If you still get no power, the breaker doesn't obviously show that it's tripped. There should be a special plastic lock on the breaker switch, so flip it up and just manually reset the breaker. Don't forget to push the lock back in place, once all is back to normal.

P.S. I know what you mean about the splice where line meets the chain. I had it on my 320DA. I usually took a pause and let the splice come through very slowly in small incerements to prevent the jamming. But, this is in fact the trouble spot. I think new spring and new finger should help. I never had plastic finger, though.
 
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Ok, one more. I have the seastar power assist steering. How much play should I expect in the steering? To turn the rudders hard over takes about 6 full revolutions of the wheel which seems very sloppy. Wondering if I've got some air in the lines. Thanks.
 
Managing that damn rope to chain transition through the windlass was going to be the death of me on my 44DB. I sold the boat because of it.

Not really, but I'm glad to have all chain now.
 
sb in gp said:
Ok, one more. I have the seastar power assist steering. How much play should I expect in the steering? To turn the rudders hard over takes about 6 full revolutions of the wheel which seems very sloppy. Wondering if I've got some air in the lines. Thanks.
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Solved this. Just some air in the line. Works good now.
 
Had a strange thing happen at the fuel dock today. 3rd time I've put in fuel. No problems the first two. This time fuel began to immediately spill from the overflow. I tried several angles and it kept happening, on both sides. Figured the pump must just be too fast, so I filled much more slowly, and got them full. Is it just the pumps or is their something else I need to be concerned about?

Thanks.

Scott
 
Any one have issues filling their port fuel tank. I cannot for the life of me get the thing to fill without stuffing a rag around the fill neck and forcing the fuel into the tank and making a mess I the process.
 
bjurkovski said:
Any one have issues filling their port fuel tank. I cannot for the life of me get the thing to fill without stuffing a rag around the fill neck and forcing the fuel into the tank and making a mess I the process.
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I don't understand your issue. Is the fuel backing up on you when you try to pump? Is it coming out the fill hole or the vent?


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Can someone give me some advice on what is needed to pull the salon flat screen? Do I have to take out the electronics below and try to get at it from the backside?

For the life of me, I cannot get the TV to come off it's mount (whatever type it is).
 

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Occasionally I get a "forward emergency" on the sea ray system monitor at the helm with a audible alarm, lasts about 3 seconds. Manual indicates that a "forward emergency pump under the master stateroom hatch is running". I've looked under the hatch aft of the berth and there is the thruster but no pump and no water. Looked under the berth hatch where the AC is and same result, no water and no pump. Does anyone know where I can find the pump in question?
 
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On my 400DB that pump is on the forward side of the bulkhead that separates the engine room and the cabin crawl space. I get to that pump/bilge area by removing the panel under the starboard bed in the mid-stateroom. It collects any water that gets under the cabin. If you have water there then you have a plumbing leak from any one of the number of hoses and fittings running under there. Fresh water plumbing, a/c plumbing, vacu/flush plumbing, shower sump, etc.

I found this because mine was full of water from three separate leaks. Two fresh water fittings and holes in the shower sump from an old pump mounting location.
 
CougarCruiser said:
Yep, I believe that one is forward the washer/dryer under the galley stairs.
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You are correct. The manual is wrong in that it says the pump is in a hatch in the master stateroom. The most forward pump is the one by the washer. Poured water on it and could hear the alarm go off.

Found the source of the problem. The pump itself was dripping pretty steady. Pulled it off and looks like I'll have to replace the gasket at the motor housing.

Thank you,
Scott
 
I changed the waste vent filter today and it was a PITA to get to. Has anyone relocated it? Was thinking of just adding some more hose and relocating it to a more accessible spot. Wondering if anyone already did this and where you ended up putting it?

Thanks,

Scott
 
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