420/44 DB Owners Club

AEO said:
I went for the Vitrifrigo. Went straight in.
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is the model # DP2600ix, is it left or right hand door swing?

thanks
 
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Irie308 said:
Well the caps have to be cleaned regardless. Shouldn't be too big of a hassle to just pull the cores and have them properly cleaned, inspected and pressure tested. lesson learned for sure. I find always have to get a clear picture of the steps involved in any repair as it may not line up to what you would think would be prudent rather what saves the tech time.
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Good advice. Thanks!
 
Irie308 said:
Well the caps have to be cleaned regardless. Shouldn't be too big of a hassle to just pull the cores and have them properly cleaned, inspected and pressure tested. lesson learned for sure. I find always have to get a clear picture of the steps involved in any repair as it may not line up to what you would think would be prudent rather what saves the tech time.
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Flix, if the cores had ever been pulled and serviced as prescribed then pulling the cores out with the exchangers installed might be possible but I would guess that this point they will need to be pushed out with a press and addressed on the bench.
 
ID this for me please!
Neither the boat or engine surveyors knew and my mechanic had no idea. I traced one of the red battery wires to the thruster fuse. All the connections are severely corroded. I wonder if this may be the cause of my stern thruster ANL fuses keep blowing. The gauge and the cylinder may indicate some kind of hydraulic device. Why would a thruster motor need a hydraulic pump? There is a 10" x 6" access door next to this device. All the screws and the cover is painted shut. I wonder if the stern thruster motor is inside this compartment.
 

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Flix2 said:
ID this for me please!
Neither the boat or engine surveyors knew and my mechmechanic had no idea. I traced one of the red battery wires to the thruster fuse. All the connections are seriously corroded. I wonder if this may be the cause of my stern thruster ANL fuses keep blowing. The gauge and the cylinder may indicate some hydraulic devise. Why would a thruster motor need a hydraulic pump? There is a 10" x 6" access door next to this device. All the screws and the cover is painted shut. I wonder if the stern thruster motor is inside this compartment.
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That looks like the hydraulic unit for the swim platform or the davit on the bow.
Operate the platform while someone is in the ER and you’ll find out.
Carpe Diem
 
Tomco said:
On mine, the outlet in the cabinet behind the sink is/was for the coffee maker and is not a gfi receptacle. Is this the same receptacle you are referring to or are you referring to a different cabinet? Per the Sea Ray wiring diagram, there appears to be a gfi receptacle before this 'coffee maker' one.

Only other spot that is accessible (but elegantly hidden) might be that little cupboard just above the stove on the outboard side ... just guessing now ...
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I am almost positive that the GFCI receptacle is in the right hand cabinet behind the sink on the left hand wall. There is also a 12v outlet beside it. It is kind of tucked back behind the door hinges and tough to see….

Bennett
 
Carpediem44DB said:
That looks like the hydraulic unit for the swim platform or the davit on the bow.
Operate the platform while someone is in the ER and you’ll find out.
Carpe Diem
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I think you are right about the unit being the hydraulic for Sea Lift platform. There is another one similar to this under the galley hatch for the front davit. It looks like both the dinghy lift and the thrusters share the same 2 batteries.
Flix
 
Flix2 said:
I think you are right about the unit being the hydraulic for Sea Lift platform. There is another one similar to this under the galley hatch for the front davit. It looks like both the dinghy lift and the thrusters share the same 2 batteries.
Flix
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That would make sense, It still doesn't explain why your stern thruster fuse blows unless the thruster and the lift are used at the same time which would not happen. Just having corroded terminals on the pump would not increase resistance in the thruster circuit. I take it you have yet to locate the thruster motor? I wish I were closer, I'd come over and give you a hand.
Carpe Diem
 
Tomco said:
I think that is the Master Head GFI ... a different circuit. Since I can't say where the Galley GFI is physically located I'm not saying you're wrong ... but I've only seen one GFI in the master head and I know from testing that Master outlet is tied to the Stbd Systems breaker.

I just noticed the following statement in the owners manual:
"The GFI receptacles are out of sight and wired in-line with the exposed Vmar receptacles throughout the yacht. This allows your yacht to have an elegant exposed receptacle while still providing protection from shock hazards."

So, while the two GFI's are 'exposed' in the respective medicine cabinets ... the galley one might be providing an elegant look behind a bulkhead!

edited for clarity/accuracy
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There is another AC receptacle inside the right side top galley cabinet, along with a 12V receptacle. Is it possibly a GFI?
 
Flix2 said:
After reading this, I seriously regret letting the mechanic do the 'cleaning' after removing the caps. Our initial agreement was to take the 2 coolers to a well known shop to pull the cores for cleaning and pressure testing. Instead, he opened the caps and did the cleaning. I balked at his plan to put the old hardened O-rings back. The O-ring kits from SB Marine are pricey at $160 a pair. I think you are exactly right. I will have the shop servied this properly. Money wasted for the few hours of cleaning but worth it in the long run.
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The O-rings are extremely important...
 
bbwhitejr said:
I am almost positive that the GFCI receptacle is in the right hand cabinet behind the sink on the left hand wall. There is also a 12v outlet beside it. It is kind of tucked back behind the door hinges and tough to see….

Bennett
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I think so also.
 
bajturner said:
There is another AC receptacle inside the right side top galley cabinet, along with a 12V receptacle. Is it possibly a GFI?
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Yup, found it this eve. I recall the 12 volt receptacle but didn’t remember seeing the gfi. That must be the least used cabinet in our boat due to the placement of our dishes. Thanks all!
 
Flix2 said:
After reading this, I seriously regret letting the mechanic do the 'cleaning' after removing the caps. Our initial agreement was to take the 2 coolers to a well known shop to pull the cores for cleaning and pressure testing. Instead, he opened the caps and did the cleaning. I balked at his plan to put the old hardened O-rings back. The O-ring kits from SB Marine are pricey at $160 a pair. I think you are exactly right. I will have the shop servied this properly. Money wasted for the few hours of cleaning but worth it in the long run.
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Absolutely agree!!!! I hope that all of your cores are good, because finding them right now is next to impossible and extremely expensive!!! I too had a mechanic tell me he could “clean” them with barnacle buster, but thankfully knew he was in over his head. I paid him to pull them and reinstall them, but I dealt with the rest. Not fun!! Now everything is clean and pressure tested to 35 psi, which is about 20 more psi than normal operation psi and I hope I’m good to go. I Also purchased a freshwater flush device that mounts to the top of the Groco strainer caps from Seaboard Diesel Marine. This should help me avoid this task ever again!!! Good Luck!!!
 
Jeff Carrick said:
Absolutely agree!!!! I hope that all of your cores are good, because finding them right now is next to impossible and extremely expensive!!! I too had a mechanic tell me he could “clean” them with barnacle buster, but thankfully knew he was in over his head. I paid him to pull them and reinstall them, but I dealt with the rest. Not fun!! Now everything is clean and pressure tested to 35 psi, which is about 20 more psi than normal operation psi and I hope I’m good to go. I Also purchased a freshwater flush device that mounts to the top of the Groco strainer caps from Seaboard Diesel Marine. This should help me avoid this task ever again!!! Good Luck!!!
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Add a salt neutralizer injection system to your fresh water flush and double down on your protection. I did that on Carpe Diem and it made me sleep better at night.
Carpe Diem
 
Carpediem44DB said:
That would make sense, It still doesn't explain why your stern thruster fuse blows unless the thruster and the lift are used at the same time which would not happen. Just having corroded terminals on the pump would not increase resistance in the thruster circuit. I take it you have yet to locate the thruster motor? I wish I were closer, I'd come over and give you a hand.
Carpe Diem
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I'd have taken advantage of your generosity if you were here. Thank you kindly. Indeed, you have helped me much more than you know by talking me through vrious issues. Everyone is so incredible in sharing their knowledge and experience. It was overwhelming initially but it's developing into a fun hobby.
Flix
 
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AEO said:
You might be right, I may be confused with the stbd.. I very vaguely remember seeing one in the cabinet behind the sink .. But I could be wrong there too ..
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Further to my previous post, I found this diagram in the owners manual. “A” is the GFI locations.
 

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bbwhitejr said:
I am almost positive that the GFCI receptacle is in the right hand cabinet behind the sink on the left hand wall. There is also a 12v outlet beside it. It is kind of tucked back behind the door hinges and tough to see….

Bennett
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I've seen the 12v but never noticed the receptacle! thanks for the pointer.
 
RBB said:
is the model # DP2600ix, is it left or right hand door swing?

thanks
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Thats it, yes. The door swings both ways (No pun intended ). The handles are in the middle so its just a case of swapping the hinge brackets. 3 screws total.
 
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