420/44 DB Owners Club

Irie308 said:
Slightly off topic, but AEO would love to see some more photos of your upgrades. Its like you've created your own model :). From the looks of it you added a hard top to the bridge? I've often wondered about how that would look. Do you also have bridge air?
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Hi Irie, the DB is a great looking boat with a timeless design, I am just modernising it. The ‘hard’ top look was easy, just making the covers all white is all I had to do.

Some dark window tinting and removal of the stripes really modernised the appearance.

My big project right now is moving the transom module aft.

No bridge air btw...

I’ll definitely post some pics.
 
boaterholic said:
Has anyone a "line drawing" side view of our model boats to use for making shirts that I can just add my boat's name to? Looking to do a more simple design than previous boats we've had. Thanks
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There are a few in the owner's and parts manuals:

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AEO said:
Don’t overthink it too much. Awesome boat.
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Thank you so much for taking the time out to share your thoughts with me and CSR. They make a lot of sense and I already have copied and pasted your notes into a digital notebook I have on a tablet...Microsoft One Note. It is advice like this that could very well keep me from purchasing a boat that falls short in some areas and I cannot put a price on that value.

Thanks again!
Vince
 
I am gradually replacing and repairing the problems of my recently acquired 2008 44. I surely could use some advice on these 3 issues.

1. AFTERCOOLERS (Commins QSC 8.3): The surveyor didn't think they had ever been serviced. The fluid analysis were fine on both. One mechanic thinks that they have to be replaced due the corrision visible at the exterior. He advised against reconditioning. Another one said he would use a fiber optic scope to check. If no severe damage is seen, he would send them to a shop in San Diego to rebuild. The price is about about $1K vs over $10K the the new ones (including labor). The reservice option is attractive but I worry about catastrophic failure in the near future.

2. STERN THURSTER: I continue to have the stern thruster 200 amp ANL fuse blown even if the joystick is tapped a couple of times. I took this photo of the prop during the survey haul-out. I will ask the diver to clean it next week. Should I replace it with a new prop. I am not sure if the prop can be changed under water. I have serviced the batteries and clean the terminals. The voltage seems good. I have yet to test the batteries under load since the fuse would blow in seconds. I will look for the solenoids and clean the connections as well.

3. POWER STEERING: The breaker at the control panel in the engine room twice while the boat was running. The wheel felt heavy all of a sudden. I don't know where to check the hydraulic fluid. I thought about taking off the small cap above the wheel to check but I don't know if the fluid is always under a lot pressure.

stern thruster.jpg
 
Flix, Have the entire cooling system removed, cleaned and serviced by a reputable and knowledgeable mechanic. Let him show you the condition of the parts and explain to you what his recommendation is. I doubt the thruster is blowing the fuse because of the prop condition, You need a load analysis done to find out how many amps the motor is pulling while
operating. I'm guessing your problem may be with the motor. You can easily inspect the brushes to see what they look like as well. As for the steering, I was un aware that it is a power steering system, only hydraulically actuated. The reservoir is the unit under the wheel and should not have pressure build up. The auto pilot system is electro hydraulic though. I would remove the plug on the helm mount andif it is pressurized you may have a situation that is entrapping air and causing an airlock perhaps.
Hope this helps a little anyway
Carpe Diem
 
LattitudeAdjustment said:
With so many 42/44 owners here, I was hoping I could get a handful of suggestions/comments on what to look for when selecting a pre-owner 42/44. My idea would be a punch list of things that would pass, fail or be reasonably repaired. An example might be a preferred powerplant for this boat is the xyz123 engine. I heard someone say some of the first boats off the line had been over-propped and caused some issues.

I am sure there are a lot of other things that may wear out prematurely or just areas of the boat I should pay close attention to. All of this would be done early on in the sales cycle prior to hiring a marine surveyor to do the deep dive into the boat & powerplant.

So I would like to create this list and when I am done, I will post it for anyone else looking to get into a 42/44.

Also, if you know of someone selling one, please hit me up with a message as boat buying is beyond frustrating. Our 02 380DA sold in 4 hours...literally.

I welcome any input I can use to put this valuable list together.

Thank you for your input,
Vince Caruso
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I am the original owner of 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. (48OCE). My vessel has been a dream boat. My Cummins 480Ce have run for over 15 years with absolutely no problems. The temps are in the same range year after year. I believe the 480CE got a bad rap (head problems) from improper running & improper maintenance. Running this boat over loaded 2350+rpm, over propped for too long.... is way too much. These motors are workhorses if you run them right. My boat sweet spot is at 2200-2250RPMs, 22-24knots. I recommend anyone interested in purchasing this beautiful boat w/480CE run the boat between 1750-2300RPMs. It will run forever.
 
hey guys does anyone leave their isinglass off for the summer up on the bridge? was thinking about taking mine all down for the summer months
 
Vetman001 said:
hey guys does anyone leave their isinglass off for the summer up on the bridge? was thinking about taking mine all down for the summer months
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I keep it up. Depends on your climate, bugs, etc. A big consideration for me if days that I have to travel and its raining. No fun with no enclosure!
 
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Vetman001 said:
hey guys does anyone leave their isinglass off for the summer up on the bridge? was thinking about taking mine all down for the summer months
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I had covers made for the upholstery on the bridge along with the helm cover and took the enclosure down. It still got somewhat dirtier, but we loved it with the enclosure down. Now, I am on an inland lake in a covered slip. We really did enjoy the absence of the enclosure in the summer....

Bennett
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Flix, Have the entire cooling system removed, cleaned and serviced by a reputable and knowledgeable mechanic. Let him show you the condition of the parts and explain to you what his recommendation is. I doubt the thruster is blowing the fuse because of the prop condition, You need a load analysis done to find out how many amps the motor is pulling while
operating. I'm guessing your problem may be with the motor. You can easily inspect the brushes to see what they look like as well. As for the steering, I was un aware that it is a power steering system, only hydraulically actuated. The reservoir is the unit under the wheel and should not have pressure build up. The auto pilot system is electro hydraulic though. I would remove the plug on the helm mount andif it is pressurized you may have a situation that is entrapping air and causing an airlock perhaps.
Hope this helps a little anyway
Carpe Diem
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Thank you, Carpe Diem! I think there is power steering becuase the label on the breaker as show below. PP on the label may mean auto pilot. I will ask the mechanic to show me the aftercoolers before reconditioning them. If they are too corroded, I will have them replaced. I will have to hunt for the thruster motor. Hopefully, it's in a compartment just above the prop. Thanks again!
steering breaker.jpg


Flix
 
Flix2 said:
If they are too corroded, I will have them replaced.
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You may find it hard to find some aftercooler parts right now. I am looking for one housing to replace one I have that has some corrosion on it. Seaboard Marine shows one available online, and thought they had it, but it turns out it was sold on Monday. They think it was the last one in North America!
 
bajturner said:
You may find it hard to find some aftercooler parts right now. I am looking for one housing to replace one I have that has some corrosion on it. Seaboard Marine shows one available online, and thought they had it, but it turns out it was sold on Monday. They think it was the last one in North America!
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My mechanic told me the same. He said Commins planned to have the new ones manufactured in Italy. They were supposed to be less problematic. Hope that's not a rumor.
 
Flix2 said:
Thank you, Carpe Diem! I think there is power steering becuase the label on the breaker as show below. PP on the label may mean auto pilot. I will ask the mechanic to show me the aftercoolers before reconditioning them. If they are too corroded, I will have them replaced. I will have to hunt for the thruster motor. Hopefully, it's in a compartment just above the prop. Thanks again!
View attachment 105663

Flix
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The motor should be visible behind the generator. I hope you are limber if you plan to access it and check the brushes yourself. You will need to crawl behind the generator and over the steering tie rods and actuator to get to it. Look for excessive carbon dust on and around the motor. may give you an idea as to the brushes condition.
 
Carpediem44DB said:
The motor should be visible behind the generator. I hope you are limber if you plan to access it and check the brushes yourself. You will need to crawl behind the generator and over the steering tie rods and actuator to get to it.
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I call that doing “boat yoga” LOL.
 
Flix2 said:
My mechanic told me the same. He said Commins planned to have the new ones manufactured in Italy. They were supposed to be less problematic. Hope that's not a rumor.
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I have been doing a lot of digging on this. Here is what my understanding is at this time:

Item number 42 in this drawing, the aftercooler housing (Cummins 3974305) is what I am looking for:

upload_2021-5-20_11-23-0.png


However, according to Cummins, this part (the housing alone) is not sold on its own anymore.

In the drawing below, item 35, which is a complete aftercooler (items 36 to 43, in above drawing, inclusively), is what you can by. This part was originally 3974306, then superseded twice, 5301727 then 5443623.

upload_2021-5-20_11-23-48.png


I have found 5301727 here: https://s1partscenter.com/brands/cummins/aftercooler/5301727 (5 in stock this morning). This is the same part number that is referenced by Seaboard Marine for the complete aftercooler as well as the housing (they show 1 in stock, but they are out of stock).

I am a little nervous about buying 5301727 in case it gets here and is the wrong part. I would be out 2xshipping (~US$400), 15% restocking (US$450), import fees, fees, etc.

Since everything else (cores, caps) look good and came apart well, for the start of these season we are going clean everything up and then MacGyver the end of the housing so the cap doesn't leak and work on sourcing a new housing, or more likely an entirely new aftercooler (~US$4K).

Here are some pics:

upload_2021-5-20_11-34-6.png


The sealant you see is from last fall's MacGyvering! Should have ordered the housing then!!

upload_2021-5-20_11-34-42.png


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It is strange that the starboard one looks like brand new, but is apparently original.

Should be all back together in a couple of days, then a few hours to swap-in a new one later...
 
I am going to replace aft deck refrigerator. Would like to know what everyone recommends.
Thank
 
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