410DA Radar Replacement

920richardf

Member
Dec 25, 2007
84
Great Lakes
Boat Info
2000 410DA
Engines
CAT 3126TA
I'm replacing the R80RC original to my 410DA with a C120. I'm sure I'll be back with wiring questions after getting the C120 and new radar pedestal installed, but I'm stuck at square one.
I'm trying to remove the R80 and can reach the near side after dropping the dash panel, but can't reach the off side mounting toggle or panel wingnuts.
Any tips on creative ways to access this without damaging the dash panel? I can cut it out as I won't have use for it one the mods are done, but it seems like they got it in so I ought to be able to get it out without a saw.
 

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I'm replacing the R80RC original to my 410DA with a C120. I'm sure I'll be back with wiring questions after getting the C120 and new radar pedestal installed, but I'm stuck at square one.
I'm trying to remove the R80 and can reach the near side after dropping the dash panel, but can't reach the off side mounting toggle or panel wingnuts.
Any tips on creative ways to access this without damaging the dash panel? I can cut it out as I won't have use for it one the mods are done, but it seems like they got it in so I ought to be able to get it out without a saw.

Did you see the BOEMarine actions?
 
On ours I removed the cup holders in front of the companion seat to access the port side wing nuts on our display. Your dash looks completley different but it's a thought. I cannot see the rest of your dash in the pic.
 
Rick

In order to reach the port side of my Raymarine unit, I had to remove the dash panel that has the radio installed, reach WAY the heck around the back of the unit and feel my way through the process.

It was a PITA.
 
Mine has the VHF and autopilot mounted underneath, so I use those to get the port side.

The R80C is retained in the cutout w/ a big knob and lever cam at the center on each side.

With the dash out can you reach the port knob? If not, it might not be there.

Try just removing the starboard knob and lever cam and pulling the unit.

The wing nuts are used to retain the "wood" trim, not the display.

380DAE120ST8001IC-M602Platinumw3D.jpg


380DAwFactoryCutouts.jpg
 
Thanks for the ideas.
Not sure what "BOE actions" refers to, but did get the new equipment from Jim (excellent). No cupholders that would provide access. Arms (way) too short to reach port side though dash panel. Panel below R80RC has no cutouts for other equipment.
I'll sharpen up my saw unless someone else has a thought.
I appreciate your efforts to help!
 
Rick

Before you cut a hole in the fiberglass panel below the unit, let me go by the boat and look at mine. I have a panel below my display (factory install) that I mounted my Floscan meter in, but, I do not recall being able to reach the display from there. I don't want to see you cut a hole that you have to cover just to fiind out that "you can't get here from there."

You may need to find a friend with longer arms!:lol:
 
If it was installed it has to be removable. There isn't any other access to that volume on my boat.

Has removing just the starboard knob and lever cam been tried?
 
I'm not sure I fully understand your specific challenge, so this might not help.
Whan I removed my C80 I had to first remove the c-map card, then the plastic trim on the C80. There are few specific pressure points that need to be worked. I found where the tabs were by reading the C80 installation manual. Once I removed the trim I found 4 screws under the plastic trim that needed to be removed. Once those screws were removed, the unit came right out.

P1020801.jpg
 
Mine has the VHF and autopilot mounted underneath, so I use those to get the port side.

The R80C is retained in the cutout w/ a big knob and lever cam at the center on each side.

With the dash out can you reach the port knob? If not, it might not be there.

Try just removing the starboard knob and lever cam and pulling the unit.

The wing nuts are used to retain the "wood" trim, not the display.

380DAE120ST8001IC-M602Platinumw3D.jpg


380DAwFactoryCutouts.jpg


Sorry, but I think this install looks horrible. The use of Starboard or whatever that white stuff is makes this look like a hack job. The MFD doesn't fit well and looks like a temporary install.

Wing, I am not trying to pick on you, but this is NOT a cool mod!
 
Sorry, but I think this install looks horrible. The use of Starboard or whatever that white stuff is makes this look like a hack job. The MFD doesn't fit well and looks like a temporary install.

Wing, I am not trying to pick on you, but this is NOT a cool mod!

But the white stuff where the VHF and autopilot are mounted looks fine? Or is the other so glaringly ugly that you missed the second?
 
No, it was a catch all comment. The whole thing is a botched job.
 
No, it was a catch all comment. The whole thing is a botched job.

Oh.

I'm replacing the R80RC original to my 410DA with a C120. I'm sure I'll be back with wiring questions after getting the C120 and new radar pedestal installed, but I'm stuck at square one.

I don't think a 120 is going to fit that space. If you are pedestal mounting it, like on an 18' center console, what's going into the empty space?
 
No, it was a catch all comment. The whole thing is a botched job.

I agree. And no offense, I've got the same problem. I gutted my helm and built a new one the way I wanted it, and needed to add a 12v panel and spotlight switch so I used Seaboard to replace the original. Looks like chit because it doesn't match the OEM woodgrain panels next to it. I need to have everything custom re-made in black or white.

1124081344-1.jpg
 
I'll certainly try not to offend the community's sensibilities with my finished project. At the end of the day it may be a little like mom's advice about lima beans - if you don't like them just leave them on your plate and don't make a big deal about it.
My intention is to bring the mounting surface flush with the recess and have Vector Imaging make a face plate that will match the other dash panels. We'll see.
Will post some pictures to this thread when I'm done, but now I'm outta here with my thanks to those that offered ideas in response to my original question.
Have fun!
 
Have a fiberglass guy who is good at color matching do the fill-in work. There are a lot of Sea Rays around, so there usually are a lot of 410s on the market. Someone looking for a really nice one might bypass one with a kludged up electronics install for the next one on his list. Then you either have to drop the price to attract a buyer or pay someone to fix up the helm.

Best regards,
Frank
 
or put a c80/e80 in the hole so it looks like it fits. The c80/e80 is the same screen width as your r80rc so it's not like you are stepping down.
 
Man, John Belushi was a genius. Just another tragic example of waste and destruction from drug abuse.

This is a perfect example of the reason members cite over and over again when seeking information using private messages instead of entering this feeding frenzy.

Fortunately my epidermis is several times the thickness of lesser men.

By all means, have the console re-sculpted to permit usage of current electronics. Or, purchase a newer vessel, designed to accept current electronics. Or, use a smaller display, in my case the C70 was the largest that would fit.

In my case, I was unwilling to remain small, unwilling to replace the vessel and unwilling to re-sculpt the console.

In my case, I was ahead of the curve, with an E-120 prior to many brand new boats.

The products from the new sponsor, Vector Imaging are terrific, but I don’t envision a better solution that retains my vessel and my E120, even using those cool panels.
 
I'm sure I'll be back with wiring questions after getting the C120 and new radar pedestal installed
When replacing the pedestal consider adding a wedge, as shown on my open array.


My open array now has a pair of 5° wedge blocks to angle the front of the array down. This compensates for the bow rising while underway for better long-distance forward imaging.

This mod results in the array level when cruising.



5DegAngledOpenArray.jpg
 

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