3M Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish

I have used all of the 3M products listed above. Here's what my experience has tought me. Perfect It seems slightly more aggressive than Finesse It. I have used it as follows:

First Step: Perfect It
Second Step: Finesse It
Third Step: Scotchguard Liquid Wax

Results have always led the cone-lickers to ask me if our boat is brand new. Creates a great mirror-like swirl-free finish. For steps 1 & 2 I use the 3M foam pad on rotary polisher. For step 3, I apply the wax with an orbital polisher.
 
tc410 said:
I have used all of the 3M products listed above. Here's what my experience has tought me. Perfect It seems slightly more aggressive than Finesse It. I have used it as follows:

First Step: Perfect It
Second Step: Finesse It
Third Step: Scotchguard Liquid Wax

Results have always led the cone-lickers to ask me if our boat is brand new. Creates a great mirror-like swirl-free finish. For steps 1 & 2 I use the 3M foam pad on rotary polisher. For step 3, I apply the wax with an orbital polisher.
Click to expand...

Great Info! So no compounding pad needed? Is there a specific 3M foam pad? I've tried using the foam pad to remove the step 3 wax. Doesn't seem to work well. I was hoping to find a solution to that as well, as I always end up doing that step by hand with a microfiber. Painful!


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I too do a 3 step method...
Presta "gel coat compound" with a wool pad to remove oxidation
Meguires polish with a foam pad to reintroduce the oils into the gel coat. This process also make the waxing process easier as it makes the surface very smooth....
Collonite # 925 wax hand applied for protection....

All happening again starting Friday....
 
Maybe my problem with the very difficult wax removal was due to the surface not being smooth enough. The 3M Cleaner & Wax does not produce a good shine.
 
boughtabouy said:
Okay, from all of the responses, I think I understand that perfect-It III is the automotive equivalent of Finesse-It II, and that both remove light oxidation and swirls. Finesse-It recommends the 3M Superbuff compounding pad, while Perfect-It recommends a foam pad. Because of this, I'm wondering if Finesse-It II is used for a little more aggressive oxidation removal.


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Click to expand...

I still think Perfect IT III is going to be more aggressive than Finesse IT II. I think one thing that has been lost here is that if you plan on keeping your boat for a while, you should really consider using the least aggressive liquid/pad (whatever it may be) combination to get the desired results. Using a heavy cut compound and wool pad/rotary will almost always produce quick, guaranteed, great results with a mirror shine every time but you are removing a lot of gel coat in the process. If you have heavy oxidation and really need to take this route, fine but if you have light oxidation, this may not be the best method and you should be able to get the shine with a less aggressive product/pad. Eventually you or someone down the road is going to run out of gel coat if a heavy cut method is used over and over again.
 
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Okay, thanks! I only have light oxidation, and do indeed plan on keeping the boat for a long time. I just ordered the Finesse-It II, and the liquid wax, along with a Perfect-It foam pad. I already have the Superbuff wool pad. Next weekend, I'm going to play around, and see what works best. Let you know what I find. I'm hoping that I find that the Finesse-It will be enough to remove the light oxidation, and provide a better shine on the gel that will make it easier to remove the liquid wax. Hoping for a successful solution with a better two part system...

Kevin
 
3M has both compound and polish pads in foam. Wool pad is very aggressive. if you have just light oxidation then foam pads will work just fine plus less chance of burning through.
 
sdarc said:
Wool pad is very aggressive.
Click to expand...

Sort of yes, sort of no. I think the best answer here is that it comes back to technique. By no means am I a 'pro' when it comes to detailing, but I do very nice job, if I do say so myself. Myself, and most (if not all) of the guys at the shop, primarily use a wool pad. I actually think a wool pad is easier to work with and I get better results with it. With light pressure, it works FANTASTIC at removing wax and buffing it at the same time to really make it shine. If it gets caked up, hit it with a spur and you're good to go again. Both foam and wool can produce great results - two means to the same end.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Wax is another subject that's highly debated. For me, though, the Collinite #885 is it. Have yet to find a product that lasts longer. It's just a pain in the rear end to apply.
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After years of trying many products, I agree, Collinite is the best. It produces a deep, long lasting shine. My boat still looks like it was just waxed. I use it above the rub rail and Flagship on the hull. Collinite is too much work to do the entire boat, and the Flagship produces similar results on the hull, but does not hold up as well on the decks. Our boat has been polished with Finesse it since we bought it new in 2004. Still looks like new.
 
I am with Dennis on "technique". Everyone has their favorite compounding, polishing and "waxing" products so that can be debated endlessly. I know what works for me and that is what I use.

And I always use a wool pad with a rotary buffer but I find the key to a good job with a wool pad is to mist it or the hull with water while using it. This keeps the pad from drying out because when that happens you tend to get more swirl marks particularly on dark colored hulls.
 
sbw1 said:
I use it above the rub rail and Flagship on the hull. Collinite is too much work to do the entire boat,
Click to expand...

Me, too. There's just too much hull - the deck takes long enough as it is. And like you said, the hull doesn't get attacked as much by the UV.
 
Never used Collinite and looking for a new or I should say improved technique and maybe new products but why is Collinite so difficult to use, never used it so is it hard to get off after applying?

I think I am leaning towards the Finesse it for polish/compound but I only have the topside to do since my hull is painted with awl grip.
 
trit21 said:
Never used Collinite and looking for a new or I should say improved technique and maybe new products but why is Collinite so difficult to use, never used it so is it hard to get off after applying?

I think I am leaning towards the Finesse it for polish/compound but I only have the topside to do since my hull is painted with awl grip.
Click to expand...

With most waxes, you can do an entire side (at least) and then come back and wipe off. If you let this stuff dry too long, it gets absolutely rock hard and takes a huge amount of ibuprofen the next day to make things right. Or, you have to put the wax on again, and then not wait so long. If you don't let it dry too long, it's only a tiny bit harder than "regular" wax to remove. I do about 3 square feet, then another 3 square feet. Then, when I can just barely no longer see my fingerprint, I remove the first 3 square feet. I then apply a 3rd section of 3-ish square feet, then come back and remove the 2nd section. And so on.
 
No wonder I'm having such a hard time getting the final wax off. I'm an IDIOT! I apply to the whole side, and then start wiping it off. IDIOT!!! I figured "dry" was "dry", not "dry for a few minutes" = easy, and "dry for a couple hours" = impossible.

Okay, I'm looking forward to trying out Finesse-It next weekend. What speed do you guys use with a compounding wood pad? I'm used to 1400RPM with the 3M Cleaner and Wax.

Dennis, you mentioned "With light pressure, it works FANTASTIC at removing wax and buffing it at the same time to really make it shine." Are you talking about compounding/cleaning? Or removal of the final wax? I haven't found a good pad to remove the final wax. But then again, I'm always doing it the hard way - after it has baked on.

Kevin
 
Hi Kevin - Oh my gosh! I can't believe you were trying to do the WHOLE side of that boat! :wow:

Not to rub it in, but I think it says only do a 2' section at a time right on the can? :smt001 Sorry!

Lighter pressure as you go - I was referring to removal of wax (although that works for compounding, too). However, I was also referring to "normal" wax. I've only ever used a microfiber to remove the Collinite. I've never tried a buffer as it just seemed to more cumbersome since I'm only doing a small section at a time. To keep moving the buffer, cord, picking it up/putting it down, trying to keep it from falling down...
 
Just reminds me of the first time I Simonized my father's truck as a teenager...waxed the whole truck and went to buff off...six hours later my arms were literally swollen...he warned me to do sections...but I knew better :)

Already mentioned, but if you never get stuck with hard wax, rewax to remove it...much quicker and easier.
 
At least I wasn't using Collinite! Now that I have a clue, I might try Collinite up above when mine runs out. I'm looking forward to trying the Finesse-It out, and with my new set of brains, hopefully removing the final wax will be smooth and much less painful.

Of all the threads I've read, I'm not sure how I missed that one...maybe such basic understanding it didn't even make it into a thread.

Onward and upward!

Kevin
 
Lazy Daze said:
I've only ever used a microfiber to remove the Collinite. I've never tried a buffer as it just seemed to more cumbersome since I'm only doing a small section at a time. To keep moving the buffer, cord, picking it up/putting it down, trying to keep it from falling down...
Click to expand...

I can't take credit for the topsides of my boat because I pay to have that done. My detailers all use buffers to apply the wax to small areas and they do use microfiber to remove the Collinite. The buffers used are not typical. The are small, handheld rotary wheel machines with a wheel diameter of maybe 3". Before starting the job, the boat is washed and all the non skid is taped off with blue painter tape. This takes almost more time than applying and removing the wax. Three people do the work. One starts on the hardtop, one in the cockpit, and one on the area in front of the windshield. Once the guy on top is done, (he is the first to do his area), he goes to the cockpit and works until that area is complete. All three end up finishing the foredeck and sides. The whole project takes about 6 hours. The results are amazing.
 
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