3M Marine Adhesives - which one for my purpose ?

2

250_money_pit

New Member
Mar 25, 2007
65
Pensacola / Destin Florida
On my 250 Select EX - I would like to use some type of 3M high strength adhesive to take a piece of pressure treated wood (as a mounting plate) and mount it to the inner wall of the engine compartment above the dual batteries. Once this in cured and in place, I want to mount my on-board battery charger to it, rather than drilling more holes down there. Is this a good idea ? If so, which 3M adhesive product would be best for adhering wood to fiberglass ? (A stong hold) Thanks :smt017
 
That isn't the approach I would use...........

Pressure treated wood is saturated with moisture so getting it to bondtoh an adhesive would be difficut. Also, the chemicals used for pressure treating are highly corrosive....I think its mostly an arsenic salt now. If you are going to use wood, stay with a type that won't rot like mahogany or teak, or use an exterior grade of plywood that is saturated and top coated with epoxy.

I wouldn't glue a load carrying base into the boat either. It should be mechanically fastened with screws or bolts. Besides, if you used an adhesive you would have to mechanically fasten it until it cured anyway.

3M 5200 is what you'd use if you insist on an adhesive.
 
fwebster said:
That isn't the approach I would use...........

Pressure treated wood is saturated with moisture so getting it to bondtoh an adhesive would be difficut. Also, the chemicals used for pressure treating are highly corrosive....I think its mostly an arsenic salt now. If you are going to use wood, stay with a type that won't rot like mahogany or teak, or use an exterior grade of plywood that is saturated and top coated with epoxy.

I wouldn't glue a load carrying base into the boat either. It should be mechanically fastened with screws or bolts. Besides, if you used an adhesive you would have to mechanically fasten it until it cured anyway.

3M 5200 is what you'd use if you insist on an adhesive.
Click to expand...

yes you 100% right
use marine plywood
you can try to use 5200 but remember that it take about week to fully cure
 
NAW!!

Dump the ply wood idea and use new "Starboard" resin board. I won't rot, holds screws well and looks clean and required no mainenance. It can be painted. It's available in different thickness and can be glued in plys to make thicker builds. Glue it with 5200 and clamps where possible.

There is also available a PVC board that is a little rougher and still suitable for the ER.

I have Plywood in several places in the ER and its all rotting after 5 years. I'm replacings it all with PVC Board as I go.
 
Here is my 2 cents:

Use marine plywood. "Paint" it with vinylester or West System epoxy on all surfaces. Then, using West System materials including fillers and/or micro balloons and following their directions, epoxy the board in place. (The filler will help to span voids or uneven areas on the bulkhead behind the board. You should also use fiberglass mat or tape to encapsulate the board which will increase strength and make the plywood one with the bulkhead behind it. Next paint it with gel coat to match the rest of the engine room and mount your equipment.
 
That may be a problem......real marine plywood is difficult to come by. You will have to find it at a marine supply business or boat yard....Lunber yards usually don't stock it. Besides, you'll have to buy a full sheet.

I know a company in Panama City Beach that will cut a piece for you out of leftover material from a project. They also stock Starboard and always have some scraps around if that suits you better.
 
Re: NAW!!

Asureyez said:
Dump the ply wood idea and use new "Starboard" resin board. I won't rot, holds screws well and looks clean and required no mainenance. It can be painted. It's available in different thickness and can be glued in plys to make thicker builds. Glue it with 5200 and clamps where possible.

There is also available a PVC board that is a little rougher and still suitable for the ER.

I have Plywood in several places in the ER and its all rotting after 5 years. I'm replacings it all with PVC Board as I go.
Click to expand...


I really want to know what type of paint sticks to starboard
and what kind of glue you are recommending?
For many years I did not find any, even 5200 become loose after few months. Please tell me your secret.
 
With all the flexing that a boat goes thru from rough water i agree with the other posts, don't glue, screw.
 
ken said:
With all the flexing that a boat goes thru from rough water i agree with the other posts, don't glue, screw.
Click to expand...


eeee...
for his application should be more than enough.
thermal insulation on space shuttle is glued to the body :smt001
 
I'm doing a project tomarrow

I'm mounting a "Boat Numbers" plaque tomorrow on to gelcoat on the ER stringer. I'm using epoxy adhesive with soem West Micro Ballons whippe din to get a better paste, the plaque will be held in place until the epoxy is set with small screws. Since the gelcoat is somewhat "popcorned" I'll dress off the joins with 3M 5400 and I expect no problems.

I paint Starboard after some light sanding with Petit Poly Poxy one part epoxy enamels. Works fine.

If I were laminating Starboard to get a thicker board I would screw the layup to help clamp the boards into a single board while the glue /mastic sets. But the OP doesn't seem to need a thicvker board, just a new clean look.

Epoxy coating and painting a piece of difficult to fine ply wood is to me just making an easy job harder for the sake of traditionalism. These resin based boards are great for many uses.

The PVC board I spoke of earlier is available in a bilge grey color as well and you cans kip the paint step.
 
Re: I'm doing a project tomarrow

Asureyez said:
I'm mounting a "Boat Numbers" plaque tomorrow on to gelcoat on the ER stringer. I'm using epoxy adhesive with soem West Micro Ballons whippe din to get a better paste, the plaque will be held in place until the epoxy is set with small screws. Since the gelcoat is somewhat "popcorned" I'll dress off the joins with 3M 5400 and I expect no problems.

I paint Starboard after some light sanding with Petit Poly Poxy one part epoxy enamels. Works fine.

If I were laminating Starboard to get a thicker board I would screw the layup to help clamp the boards into a single board while the glue /mastic sets. But the OP doesn't seem to need a thicvker board, just a new clean look.

Epoxy coating and painting a piece of difficult to fine ply wood is to me just making an easy job harder for the sake of traditionalism. These resin based boards are great for many uses.

The PVC board I spoke of earlier is available in a bilge grey color as well and you cans kip the paint step.
Click to expand...

Thanks
I will try that products.
 
I vote for Jeff's approach. I would never want to put screws into the hull from the inside. Putting some wood or other material that can take the bite of the screws for mounting and then glassing it in makes the most sense to me.
 
Hey Gary:

Our OP wasn't screwing into his hull, he was going OVER his firewall to mount a battery charger. Still want to hunt down marine ply, seal the edges, coat it with resin and cloth and paint it to then install it with screws?

Chad


220_money_pit said:
On my 250 Select EX - I would like to use some type of 3M high strength adhesive to take a piece of pressure treated wood (as a mounting plate) and mount it to the inner wall of the engine compartment above the dual batteries. Once this in cured and in place, I want to mount my on-board battery charger to it, rather than drilling more holes down there. Is this a good idea ? If so, which 3M adhesive product would be best for adhering wood to fiberglass ? (A stong hold) Thanks :smt017
Click to expand...
 
OK Chad... it's early... what's an "OP"? :smt043

You have to remember that I have one of these cored hull boats and putting any screws in it is a big no-no. Most of the infrastructure on my boat is mounted on cross bulkheads and the interior hull sides are empty and clean.
 
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