I have a horrible leak from where the transom meets the out drive on my 86 sea ray. I think this was due to beeing really loose well I was wondering after I tighten it up would 3m 5200 be good to use to reseal it? Also I am assuming that I have to remove all the old sealant yes I know that last part of my question was dumb but I thought I would just ask.
3m 5200 question
- Thread starter 83ray
- Start date
Captain Crispy
Member
- Nov 24, 2007
- 163
- Boat Info
- 33' 1987 Sportfisher II
- Engines
- hamsters...scurrying little hamsters...
If you have a leak around the outdrive this would only be a temporary fix. You have to determine why it is leaking. Did you hit something and cause it to loosen ? Did one or more bolts, screws, nuts, etc loosen causing the seal leak ? Is it really leaking at the seal, or do you have a leaking driveshaft or shift cable bellows allowing water to come in ?
If you do go the caulk route, I would recommend that you use the black Boatlife sealer rather than 5200. 3M's 5200 is a very strong adhesive; while it will be very effective sealing something, it makes it very hard to disassemble later. I used to use just 5200 until I learned better.
If you do go the caulk route, I would recommend that you use the black Boatlife sealer rather than 5200. 3M's 5200 is a very strong adhesive; while it will be very effective sealing something, it makes it very hard to disassemble later. I used to use just 5200 until I learned better.
keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,486
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
OMC 800? That would mean you have the big rubber boot on the transom. Those can go bad. Is the boot leaking, is it leaking where the boot attaches to the transom, or where the boot attaches to the drive.
It has a cobra out drive on it. When I pulled it out of the water I still had the drain plug in it and water was comming out where the out drive meets the transom and if you lifted up on the out drive you could see where it had broken the seal and more water would come out. When I went home I checked the bolts in the housing and they where very loose I got more then ten full turns on them so I am guessing this was where most of the water was comming in. where do I by the black boat life sealer at.
Last edited:
keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,486
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
Cobra on an '83... That doesn't seem right. I am pretty sure that drive was not released until '86.
Anyway, if it is that loose, you may have a rotted transom. Also when those leak, the transom bolts have a tendency to corrode. You may not be able to just seal and tighten.
Anyway, if it is that loose, you may have a rotted transom. Also when those leak, the transom bolts have a tendency to corrode. You may not be able to just seal and tighten.
Captain Crispy
Member
- Nov 24, 2007
- 163
- Boat Info
- 33' 1987 Sportfisher II
- Engines
- hamsters...scurrying little hamsters...
I am not familiar with OMC outdrives, just MerCruiser and a little bit about Volvo.
That being said, I think keokie's concern is correct. I think it would be unusual for those fasteners to loosen like that. You should check all of the nuts and bolts for corrosion, then clean off the old sealers, then re-seal with the sealer of your choice, then re-attach all of the fasteners to the correct torque. Might be a good idea to use lock-tite.
You can get BoatLife at most marine supply outlets. Make sure you get the one that cures under water; i think it is called LifeSeal.
That being said, I think keokie's concern is correct. I think it would be unusual for those fasteners to loosen like that. You should check all of the nuts and bolts for corrosion, then clean off the old sealers, then re-seal with the sealer of your choice, then re-attach all of the fasteners to the correct torque. Might be a good idea to use lock-tite.
You can get BoatLife at most marine supply outlets. Make sure you get the one that cures under water; i think it is called LifeSeal.
It is an 86 the bolts dont look to bad I have had the motor out and out drive off a few times do you think that may have knocked it loose. It has also taken a nast bump in its past life the fin on the lower housing is broken.
tobnpr
New Member
Without addressing any underlying issues/causes of the leak, 5200 is a pemanent adhesive- if it needs to be removed, as in a transom plate, it's not the correct choice.
Well I had my local boat guy come out and the verdict rotten transon
New motor 1200, rebuilt out drive 500, new floors 300, other odds and ends 600..... over 200 man hrs down the drain priceless I think I am going to start drinking now
New motor 1200, rebuilt out drive 500, new floors 300, other odds and ends 600..... over 200 man hrs down the drain priceless I think I am going to start drinking now
Larry
Well-Known Member
- Oct 19, 2006
- 1,284
- Boat Info
- 2004 42 Sundancer
Hydraulic platform
Cockpit air
KVH M3
- Engines
- 450hp Cummins
Sorry to hear, but as I read your first post I new that was going to be the outcome.... It is repairable, allot of work but it can be done.
Good luck!
SevenTeas
New Member
The other option is to try and find a good hull with a bad engine and drive and swap your Power trian into the good hull.
They can be found if you look.
They can be found if you look.
tobnpr
New Member
Well, don't drink too much, yet...
You need to find out if the rot is restricted to the transom, or if it has spread out into the stringers where they tie into it...
Transom replacement can be done for a couple grand professionally, and with some basic fiberglass knowledge is a DIY project if you have the place to do it.
Do a search, there's a really good thread here with lots of pics from a member who tackled it- and did a really professional quality job as well.
