340 SUNDANCER THREAD

[Golfman25]

Ok. A little help here. Looking at the 340 and obviously the "water ingestion" issue pops up during research. I am seeing three exhaust systems. The first is the traditional log muffler system, which I understand is problematic.

Then, there is the water lift mufflers (I understand this was the eventual fix), I see on boats with the newer 6.2s and 8.1s.

But the one I am looking at, a 1999 model, and many others seem to have a "hybrid" system (for lack of a better term) -- as if they cut the original log muffler in half.

So was the "hybrid" a fix for the issue as well? Seems easier to retrofit all the suspect boats like that than to add water lifts. Thanks.

 

[Craig]

I personally would not buy a boat that didn't have water lift.

 

[Stee6043]

Ok. A little help here. Looking at the 340 and obviously the "water ingestion" issue pops up during research. I am seeing three exhaust systems. The first is the traditional log muffler system, which I understand is problematic. View attachment 59542

Then, there is the water lift mufflers (I understand this was the eventual fix), I see on boats with the newer 6.2s and 8.1s.
View attachment 59543

But the one I am looking at, a 1999 model, and many others seem to have a "hybrid" system (for lack of a better term) -- as if they cut the original log muffler in half.
View attachment 59544
So was the "hybrid" a fix for the issue as well? Seems easier to retrofit all the suspect boats like that than to add water lifts. Thanks.

If you don’t have those “cans” I don’t think it’s a water lift. An engine survey should be able to identify water reversion issues. If all else looks good make an offer contingent on both hull and engine surveys.

 

[Golfman25]

I personally would not buy a boat that didn't have water lift.

Agreed. But problem is pickins are slim then -- A lot of otherwise nice boats are off the table. If the modified/hybrid log exhaust is a fix, then why not consider.

 

[KevinC]

Agreed. But problem is pickins are slim then -- A lot of otherwise nice boats are off the table. If the modified/hybrid log exhaust is a fix, then why not consider.

Don't compromise on something big just to get a boat now. Expand your search radius and wait a little. Talk to dealers that may be likely to see a trade-in. More boats will be on the market towards the end of the summer season.

-Kevin

 

[suss1173]

Agreed. But problem is pickins are slim then -- A lot of otherwise nice boats are off the table. If the modified/hybrid log exhaust is a fix, then why not consider.

You could do a compensation and leak down test to see the health of the motor and if everything checks out, ask for a price adjustment to cover the cost of installing the water lifts.

Assuming the motors are healthy, they make an insert that looks like a cone that goes in the horizontal rubber tubes that helps prevent water reversion, possible that could be a short term solution until you can do the water lift system.

I’m not suggesting you settle on any boat, you should get the best you can find, but if the only issues is the waterlofts, and the motors are healthy.... then it’s something that can be added.

 

[Craig]

Agreed. But problem is pickins are slim then -- A lot of otherwise nice boats are off the table. If the modified/hybrid log exhaust is a fix, then why not consider.

Not sure it was a true fix. Seems to be a fair amount that were converted. I'm just paranoid I guess.

 

[suss1173]

Not sure it was a true fix. Seems to be a fair amount that were converted. I'm just paranoid I guess.

Water revision is a know issue with these set ups so I don’t think you’re being paranoid at all, this is a known issue and it smart to make sure your not getting into someone else’s mess.

I bought mine w/o the water lifts and plan to add them at some point… but I did a compression and leak down and numbers were good and after I bought it, I pulled the manafolds and replaced all the exhaust components as preventative maintance and everything looked in order inside the exhaust ports so I feel mine are ok (at least for now). But I still plan to add the waterlifts.

 

[Golfman25]

Water revision is a know issue with these set ups so I don’t think you’re being paranoid at all, this is a known issue and it smart to make sure your not getting into someone else’s mess.

I bought mine w/o the water lifts and plan to add them at some point… but I did a compression and leak down and numbers were good and after I bought it, I pulled the manafolds and replaced all the exhaust components as preventative maintance and everything looked in order inside the exhaust ports so I feel mine are ok (at least for now). But I still plan to add the waterlifts.

Did you have the full logs as in pic 1. Or the setup in pic 3?

 

[suss1173]

Goldman. My motors are a bit different, I have the newer motors, they are the 380hp 7.4 horizons, so my motors don’t look the same, but the exhaust set up on mine is like what you have pictured in that 3rd picture.

If you look closely at that 3rd picture, you will notice a hose clamp toward the middle of the rubber tubes that come off of each of the elbows, that hose clamp should be for the cone/ exhaust resonator thing, and thats there to “help” prevent water reversion. It’s not necessarily a perfect fix, but it’s helpful.

 

[Jeff42899]

Goldman. My motors a bit different, I have the newer motors, they are the 380hp 7.4 horizons, so my motors don’t look the same, but the exhaust set up on mine is like what you have pictured in that 3rd picture.

If you look closely at that 3rd picture, you will notice a hose clamp toward the middle of the rubber tubes that come off each of the elbows, that hose clamp should be for the cone/ exhaust resonator thing, and thats there to help prevent water reversion.

I hope I'm not derailing this thread, I'm just trying to learn a little. I have a 99 340 with T-380 Horizons. Here's what my setup looks like. It sounds a lot like what you're referring to. My mechanical survey went well when I purchased this. Has it been revised at all or this the original, suspect configuration?

 

[AllTideUp]

I hope I'm not derailing this thread, I'm just trying to learn a little. I have a 99 340 with T-380 Horizons. Here's what my setup looks like. It sounds a lot like what you're referring to. My mechanical survey went well when I purchased this. Has it been revised at all or this the original, suspect configuration?
View attachment 59697

I have an 01 340 with the 7.4 Horizons, I have the longer exhaust logs pictured elsewhere on this thread, yours are shorter than mine. Where are your batteries at? Mine sit under the exhaust logs.

 

[wayne0]

I have the same set up as the 3rd picture and had to replace my port engine due to water reversion. Same cone thingy too. Seems a "stop gap" effort on Searay's part that really didn't work as planned. BTW, stb. engine also showed signs of water.

 

[Todd320]

Ok someone was asking about dash.

Here is the new set up currently. Lowrance HD’s 9 gen 3 and lowrance link-8 vhf. Ais is working, along with stereo control via NMEA 2000, and engine data from gateway.

For the vhf, Did you cut a hole in the dash, or was it already there, and you added a plate, and cut the hole in the plate for the new vhf?

 

[suss1173]

My engin hatch is extremely slow, regardless of lifting up or down. I callled a few places and it seems a new actuator is about $420. I might try taking it apart and see if I can clean up the internals. But I’m not good with that kind of work, so I wanted to see if anyone else has had to replace there’s and if so, where did you sourc it, or if there any tips for taking it apart

For future reference, if anyone needs the part number, it’s stamped on the side of the unit and it’s kind of hard to get a visual on. The unit on my 2001 340 is part number DM12-10A5-18CE-3200, this is stamped on the side of the housing and the sticker on the front of my pump shows Warner Electric DM12 series actuator. The travel is 18’ and total length is 38’. Hopfully this will help the next person needing the part number.

 

[Stee6043]

My engin hatch is extremely slow, regardless of lifting up or down. I callled a few places and it seems a new actuator is about $420. I might try taking it apart and see if I can clean up the internals. But I’m not good with that kind of work, so I wanted to see if anyone else has had to replace there’s and if so, where did you sourc it, or if there any tips for taking it apart

If anyone in the future needs the part number, it’s stamped on the side of the unit and it’s kind of hard to get a visual on. It’s DM12-10A5-18CE-3200, this is the number stamped on the side of the housing and the sticker on the front of my pump shows Warner Electric DM12 series actuator. The travel is 18’ and total length is 38’. Hopfully this will help the next person needing the part number.

Have you tried some motor oil on the shaft? Made a world of difference on mine when she started to slow. Similar results on the forward power window as well...

 

[suss1173]

Have you tried some motor oil on the shaft? Made a world of difference on mine when she started to slow. Similar results on the forward power window as well...

Thanks for the tip. I did spray some lube on the shaft, and it helped a little, but it is still extremely slow and seems like its gonna get stuck.

 

[Stee6043]

Thanks for the tip. I did spray some lube on the shaft, and it helped a little, but it is still extremely slow and seems like its gonna get stuck.

Another wild idea - are you sure the hatch isn't binding somewhere? I've had things in/around the bench cushions bind during lifting. Perhaps pull all the cushions and remove anything on the hatch (under bench) and see if it goes faster?

Last wild idea before spending a half a boat buck on the lifter - disconnect the ram from the hatch and manually lift it up/down. Make sure you can move it freely yourself. That's what I'd do before whipping out my checkbook

 

[Craig]

There is a grease fitting on there. Helped mine tremendously. Along with some silicone spray on the shaft.

 

[Cali Dreaming]

Howdy, I'm one of those boatless newbs posting here occasionally as part of my quest to not be boatless. Anyhoo. Not sure this is the appropriate place to post, but here goes. I think I'm going for a Bush era 320 or 340 (probably 340), but have a freshwater question--is it worth the premium?

I’m in Southern California, so I’m dropping it in salt regardless, but for the price difference in freshwater boats, plus the hassle of me having to deal with making a deal out of state/travel/survey/transport etc., I could pretty much just buy a saltwater boat, immediately swap out manifolds/risers and anything that touched the salt to give myself a maintenance baseline to jump off, and still be money ahead. Is there anything else I’m missing here that a freshwater boat would give me?