340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Hello,
I'm looking for thoughts and advise again...

A very nice day in NY today so off to the boat to do some, what I thought was, simple maintenance work.
I went to change the gas filters (both the water Seperator and the in-line) and didn't get too far before I had to stop to ask a question...

The in-line gas filter (picture attached) has a male-to-male converter in the line from the tank and the filter itself. I don't see any sealant on the tank line side - but I think I see some sort of sealant, cotton threads maybe, between the male-to-male and the in-line filter.

My question is - should I be putting anything on these threads like cotton thread or plumbers tape?

Thanks
IMG_4624.jpg
 
Do not use Teflon on the fuel system. Brass fittings typically do not need. But if you’d like, grab some “pipe dope” for fuel systems. Comes in a yellow squeeze tube. I get it at Lowe’s.
Btw, you can get those “in-line” filters at Auto Zone, pretty cheap. Just look up part number!
 
JKenny said:
Hello,
I'm looking for thoughts and advise again...

A very nice day in NY today so off to the boat to do some, what I thought was, simple maintenance work.
I went to change the gas filters (both the water Seperator and the in-line) and didn't get too far before I had to stop to ask a question...

The in-line gas filter (picture attached) has a male-to-male converter in the line from the tank and the filter itself. I don't see any sealant on the tank line side - but I think I see some sort of sealant, cotton threads maybe, between the male-to-male and the in-line filter.

My question is - should I be putting anything on these threads like cotton thread or plumbers tape?

ThanksView attachment 156059
Click to expand...

This stuff works wonders. Some of the sealants out there are not for fuel systems, like some of the Permatex offerings. Make sure you read the label :)

1703950019706.png
 
340DA/375 Sundancer 2005 EIM Kidney Switch Panel - need to move lights on a switch, how?

My underwater lights are not working and I think it is the switch as they wouldnt turn off and had to keep pressing switch till they did, now wont turn back on.
It is on Acc1 and want to move to another switch on the dash panel.
Does anyone know HOW as I have spent ages searching the web and forums?
Should be just a simple task I assume.
It is for the underwater lights and assume the fuse is under steering of the helm, which none of the breakers have popped either.
 
Its time for a new cabin fridge for our boat. Original fridge started to vary wildly in temp, began to get noisy and seemed to be a source of a drain on my house batteries while on the hook as the fridge compressor was running almost constantly.

Decided to go with the Vitrifrigo C115IBD4-F-2 with the flange kit R128110.C and they should be delivered in the next week...I hope. Planning to do the swap just before we dewinterize in mid March.

Any tips, pointers, advice or warnings are welcomed. I'll try to get good pics and document the process. Question for anyone who has done the swap with this model, or with the F-1...does the fridge come with a plug?
 
Tough to get the old fridge out. Remove the door and cut the items off the back. Watch for sharp edges getting it out. We went with the IsoTherm. Need 3/4" shims around the frame to fit and upright blocking to level. Easy.

There is a 120v receptacle inside the cabinet. 12V wiring was loose.
 
I have a question about anodes. The manual only shows anodes on the trim tabs and the transom. When I purchased the boat it had anodes on the prop shafts also. I have also read that Sea Ray does not recommend anode on prop shafts but I can't find where I read that to verify. Anybody have any insight into this? TIA
 
They were on our 2000 340 at purchase. Our surveyor recommended taking them off. They are supposed to be a few inches above the strut to provide a gap for cooling water flow to the cutlass bearing. Invariably, they slide down, butt up to the strut and block the flow, which aids in premature wear.
 
D Bell said:
They were on our 2000 340 at purchase. Our surveyor recommended taking them off. They are supposed to be a few inches above the strut to provide a gap for cooling water flow to the cutlass bearing. Invariably, they slide down, butt up to the strut and block the flow, which aids in premature wear.
Click to expand...
Thanks. My surveyor never mentioned it either way but the Owner's Manual only talks about anodes on the trim tabs, transom and if you have outdrives there are anodes on there.
 
Mark Searay said:
340DA/375 Sundancer 2005 EIM Kidney Switch Panel - need to move lights on a switch, how?

My underwater lights are not working and I think it is the switch as they wouldnt turn off and had to keep pressing switch till they did, now wont turn back on.
It is on Acc1 and want to move to another switch on the dash panel.
Does anyone know HOW as I have spent ages searching the web and forums?
Should be just a simple task I assume.
It is for the underwater lights and assume the fuse is under steering of the helm, which none of the breakers have popped either.
Click to expand...
Just in case anyone interested, you can change the switch cables at the EIM
However after tracing and testing the EIM, the switch wasnt the issue - there was a burnt cable and relay from the underwater lights in between the EIM - thats all.

Replaced a few bucks and all working.
 
Hello... I have a 2000 SeaRay 340 Sundancer.

We live on a floating home with our boat parked out front. This week I needed to move it. During the winter it always takes a few tries but always starts.

This time, the Port engine turned over quickly and eventually started. The Starboard engine turned over more slowly and never did start. I thought possibly the batteries were lower but they were fine voltage wise. I let it sit for awhile and just retried it today.

The Port engine turns over fast and eventually starts. The Starboard engine turns over slower and never starts. It acts like a fuel issue but the slower turnover confuses me. It should turn over faster like the Port engine.

They are 7.4s.

Any help appreciated. The genny shares the same fuel tank as Starboard and it starts fine.

Thanks.... Phil
 
Phil Bransom said:
Hello... I have a 2000 SeaRay 340 Sundancer.

We live on a floating home with our boat parked out front. This week I needed to move it. During the winter it always takes a few tries but always starts.

This time, the Port engine turned over quickly and eventually started. The Starboard engine turned over more slowly and never did start. I thought possibly the batteries were lower but they were fine voltage wise. I let it sit for awhile and just retried it today.

The Port engine turns over fast and eventually starts. The Starboard engine turns over slower and never starts. It acts like a fuel issue but the slower turnover confuses me. It should turn over faster like the Port engine.

They are 7.4s.

Any help appreciated. The genny shares the same fuel tank as Starboard and it starts fine.

Thanks.... Phil
Click to expand...
Have you tried using the override switch to start the Starboard engine (after firing up the Port one first)? Maybe you just need a little more juice to get it started.
 
  • Hi all...

    I have a 2000 340 Sundancer. I purchased it about 10 months ago, has a little over 1000 hours on 7.4 engines.

    We live on a floating home on the Columbia River in Oregon so we keep it parked out front. We've had a few days of freezing but I have a
    bilge heater and keep a light bulb when below 32degrees. The water temp is around 45 during January.

    I had to move it last week and when I did, the Starboard engine cranked over but never started. The Port engine started after about 4 tries. My only concern
    to a degree is that both had plenty of voltage in the batteries, but the Starboard engine cranked over a little slower. Maybe 30% slower. It has always been like
    the Port engine and starts right up in the summer but takes about 4 tries during the winter.

    Any ideas what this could mean? I tried the Emergency switch just to see if it was a battery issue but did not make a difference. It's not frozen up.

    Thanks for your help.
 

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Phil, Did you check "EACH" battery. The voltage check on the panel reads fine (probably aided by the charger) but the batteries do not have enough CCA's left to turn things over. Mine went out this season. 3 of the 4 need replacing, only the alternator (separate bank) survived. Also, the two on the port side are in parallel. If one goes bad, it will bring done the other (lowest common denominator theory).

Also, the Emergency Start switch was not perfect. It too needs enough juice to pop the solenoid. After starting one side, let it run for a while to compensate for the cranking effort.
 
D Bell said:
Phil, Did you check "EACH" battery. The voltage check on the panel reads fine (probably aided by the charger) but the batteries do not have enough CCA's left to turn things over. Mine went out this season. 3 of the 4 need replacing, only the alternator (separate bank) survived. Also, the two on the port side are in parallel. If one goes bad, it will bring done the other (lowest common denominator theory).

Also, the Emergency Start switch was not perfect. It too needs enough juice to pop the solenoid. After starting one side, let it run for a while to compensate for the cranking effort.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!! I will do that tomorrow.
 
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