340 Sundancer A/V upgrades

we're not worthy!!!!!!!!
wayne.jpg
 
I put a plastic sandwich bag over it when I wash the cockpit. It has been rained on a little and suffered no ill effects. I would be less confident if I were in salt water.

the Drive/Play just came and I am impressed. One more question though. Saw your pictures on the dash. Looks like the unit might be somewhat exposed to the elements. would your dash get rained on in a storm? I wanted to put mine up under the windshield but then it is not easy to reach. I would be nice if I could install it right above the radio control on the dash.
 
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Yes, mine is quite exposed. I keep some sandwich bags aboard in case of rain or hosing down the cockpit. The windshield is quite far away on the 340, so it wold be difficult to reach it. I thought about putting the display under the dash, though.
 
Teekster,

I'm just looking at your install in more detail, now that sub time is nearing. How do you feel about your cockpit subwoofer amp? What about if you only used one sub?

Did you know that the cockpit helm seating has drain holes in the top that allow water to run down into the compartment below? Just in case.
 
Teekster,

I'm just looking at your install in more detail, now that sub time is nearing. How do you feel about your cockpit subwoofer amp? What about if you only used one sub?

Did you know that the cockpit helm seating has drain holes in the top that allow water to run down into the compartment below? Just in case.

With one sub, I would cut some vent holes in inconspicuous places for sure. I may still do that this spring.

I had one sub in the cockpit of my 280 and felt I needed to really crank it to feel bass in the captain's chair, especially when under way. That installation was different, as it was a free-air sub. It was quite "peaky" depending on where you were. The sealed enclosures are much better in that regard.

If you are going to mostly stay on the hook to enjoy your tunes, it should be just fine.

I am curious as to how you are going to run the speaker leads. I merely unscrewed the access cover under the aft seat and ran the wires through it. IMHO, it's kind of ghetto, but no one ever sees it.
 
Good question. I am also designing a fresh water manifold to fresh water rinse the engines. I was planning on accessing the ER through the port side compartment next to the transom locker for that system. That's where the other systems enter the ER.

I'll have to look at the access panel for options there. All I know is that I don't want to cut the hatch in any way if I don't have to. If I do, I'll fiberglass in thru-hulls to provide structural integrity. My current plan on the fresh water manifold is to hook up 2 garden hoses to one manifold with double hoses running to each engine strainer. The double hoses are to keep the Inside Dia small to avoid collapse during normal engine ops while maximizing flow of FW to the strainers. I plan to turn on one engine, then turn on both hoses to the one engine strainer. Excess fresh water will flow out thru the thru-hull which will remain open. When done, I will shut off the engine and the water at the same time. The engines should have only fresh water in them without shutting the thru-hulls to the strainers. Of course, the new manifold valve will then need to be shut.

This will allow vacuum to draw on the FW lines during normal engine ops, but there won't be much resistance as the thru-hulls will be providing normal SW flow thru the strainers, but I digress.
 

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