DaleM
Member
Figured out the coax cable run and will post pictures shortly.
Last edited:
32" LED tv install on aft bulkhead
- Thread starter DaleM
- Start date
DaleM
Member
Here's how I routed the coax from the Glomex amp up to the stbd side bulkhead. (the amp is located on the port side in the original TV location). I'm keeping that TV as it still can play movies, etc.
This is the stbd hanging locker and TV. This shows the access panels that will allow you to follow the AC ducting to route the cable from the TV opening down to the AC area under the v-berth:
The from the access panel in the bottom of the locker, I was able to route the coax down into the AC pump space by following the duct: You can see the wires that feeds the lights in the ceiling here.
From there I routed across the AC area and then again followed a duct that went up through the port side hanging locker. I did have to use a fishtape for this pull. In this picture you can see the hanging locker with two of the panes removed:
Again, following the duct work you can then make a pretty straight pull back towards the power panel. When you look behind in the direction of the duct, you will see the romex 120v cables and follow them. In this picture you can see the access panel removed that will help you make the pull from the port side locker to this access right near the power panel.
You'll need to disassemble the power panel. From there you can continue pulling the coax through to get behind the helm where it'll end up to connect to the TV. The bundle of white 120v romex cables that you see coming from the top left side of the picture is actually the set of wires that you can follow and see in the port hanging locker when you stick your head back there:
To get to the area behind the helm, remove the cup holder and speaker. You'll end up wtih a nice opening to work through:
Inside that panel you see below. In my case I think the PO drilled a hole to route power for 12V LED underwater lighting.
That's all the wires coming out of the helm and heading in different directions. If you notice to the lower right, there's that hole. That hole takes you to the area with access easily into the power panel where the coax can be routed. You can also use the fiberglass hatch as a means to work through.
In my case I will be mounting a GFI 120v power plug to that plywood panel to feed power to the TV, and to create a branch circuit for 120v power.
As I get the TV ready to mount, I'll post that process as well.
Dale
This is the stbd hanging locker and TV. This shows the access panels that will allow you to follow the AC ducting to route the cable from the TV opening down to the AC area under the v-berth:
The from the access panel in the bottom of the locker, I was able to route the coax down into the AC pump space by following the duct: You can see the wires that feeds the lights in the ceiling here.
From there I routed across the AC area and then again followed a duct that went up through the port side hanging locker. I did have to use a fishtape for this pull. In this picture you can see the hanging locker with two of the panes removed:
Again, following the duct work you can then make a pretty straight pull back towards the power panel. When you look behind in the direction of the duct, you will see the romex 120v cables and follow them. In this picture you can see the access panel removed that will help you make the pull from the port side locker to this access right near the power panel.
You'll need to disassemble the power panel. From there you can continue pulling the coax through to get behind the helm where it'll end up to connect to the TV. The bundle of white 120v romex cables that you see coming from the top left side of the picture is actually the set of wires that you can follow and see in the port hanging locker when you stick your head back there:
To get to the area behind the helm, remove the cup holder and speaker. You'll end up wtih a nice opening to work through:
Inside that panel you see below. In my case I think the PO drilled a hole to route power for 12V LED underwater lighting.
That's all the wires coming out of the helm and heading in different directions. If you notice to the lower right, there's that hole. That hole takes you to the area with access easily into the power panel where the coax can be routed. You can also use the fiberglass hatch as a means to work through.
In my case I will be mounting a GFI 120v power plug to that plywood panel to feed power to the TV, and to create a branch circuit for 120v power.
As I get the TV ready to mount, I'll post that process as well.
Dale
Last edited:
DaleM
Member
Finished the TV install.
Tomco
Active Member
- Aug 16, 2012
- 455
- Boat Info
- 2004 420 Sedan Bridge
GHS Hydraulic Lift
11' Walker Bay, 30hp
- Engines
- Cummins 6CTA 8.3M
Dale, your TV install looks great! thanks for posting the cable routing - I will definitely be following your tips when we get to the install on our boat. I've noticed in some posts that folks have installed 12v/120v TV's ... which seems like a good option if you have the battery strength. Did you run a new 120v circuit for the TV or connect into an existing line? and where did you end up putting the outlet box? Look forward to seeing the pics of how you mounted the TV.
DaleM
Member
Tomco,
I opt'd to route a new 120V circuit. I bought 14/3 stranded marine wet/dry power cable from West Marine. I crimped on lugs to the ends of the wires and connected the hot (black) to the "AC Outlets" terminal of the breaker in the panel. The neutral (white) went to the neutral bar of the 120V bus, and the ground (green) to a spare lug on the ground bar. I mounted the receptacle to an epoxied ply panel that can be seen when you remove the speaker panel that's at your knee when in the captains chair. I used a GFI recptacle. Keep in mind you're only protected by the GFI when connected on shore power - not generator. The area where the receptacle is located is water protected and is only a few feet from the back of the power panel.
I considered a converter but just went forward with a 120V install. Switching to a converter wouldn't be difficult at all. There's plenty of room for them behind the panel and up inside the speaker opening. The last picture in my post is what that opening looks like. I mounted the receptacle above the blue wire in that picture, to that plywood panel. The TV power cord routes through a 1" hole I drilled and snaked through the opening under the helm.
FWIW - the TV mounts to a vinyl covered piece of wood. Then there's there a gap, and then the fiberglass helm. You only need to drill through and mount to the plywood. I used expanding 1/4"-20 (1 3/4" long) expanding molly bolts that I coated with blue locktite.
I opt'd to route a new 120V circuit. I bought 14/3 stranded marine wet/dry power cable from West Marine. I crimped on lugs to the ends of the wires and connected the hot (black) to the "AC Outlets" terminal of the breaker in the panel. The neutral (white) went to the neutral bar of the 120V bus, and the ground (green) to a spare lug on the ground bar. I mounted the receptacle to an epoxied ply panel that can be seen when you remove the speaker panel that's at your knee when in the captains chair. I used a GFI recptacle. Keep in mind you're only protected by the GFI when connected on shore power - not generator. The area where the receptacle is located is water protected and is only a few feet from the back of the power panel.
I considered a converter but just went forward with a 120V install. Switching to a converter wouldn't be difficult at all. There's plenty of room for them behind the panel and up inside the speaker opening. The last picture in my post is what that opening looks like. I mounted the receptacle above the blue wire in that picture, to that plywood panel. The TV power cord routes through a 1" hole I drilled and snaked through the opening under the helm.
FWIW - the TV mounts to a vinyl covered piece of wood. Then there's there a gap, and then the fiberglass helm. You only need to drill through and mount to the plywood. I used expanding 1/4"-20 (1 3/4" long) expanding molly bolts that I coated with blue locktite.