310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Stephenm27 when I raise the float on my high water sump a alarm sounds and the sump kicks on
 
bryan25rs said:
Stephenm27 when I raise the float on my high water sump a alarm sounds and the sump kicks on
Click to expand...

So that's what I would expect...but no audible alarm in my case. The pump does run as expected so I'm curious if perhaps the noisemaker (beeper/buzzer) itself is inoperable.

I'll have to dig around and find it/verify it works...thanks for the confirmation!
 
It's up front under the main instrument panel on my boat...I know because mine went off the very first day I got the boat and had no idea what was going on...though for sure I was stinking or the thing was going to blow up. Just a bad shower bilge pump letting water into that area. Geez was that thing loud. Check your owners manual wiring diagram to find out the color code on the wires and you should be able to locate it fairly quick. I know I saw one taped into the harness that looked like it was intentionally covered to reduce the loudness. I personally want the alarms to go off, they are there for a reason.
 
stephenm27 said:
Does anyone know if the emergency bilge pump running results in an audible alarm of any sort? If I manually activate it using the float switch I do not hear any nor does the indicator light on the helm panel come on (as it does with the main bilge pump).

I'm basically trying to determine if I need to fix something that should be working (or add something that I think should really be there)...
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Let's be sure we are talking about the same pump... the one that sets off my audible alarm is only accessible from the shower sump box location. It sits behind the sump box towards the aft of the boat.

I have two pumps in the bilge... one located lower than the other. The higher mounted one does not set off the audible alarm.

Edit:
Not sure about that... schematics say it should set off an audible.
 
Last edited:
Based on the parts manual (for 2007), #14 was originally the high water alarm buzzer...but after about 60 hulls this became the MERC alarm buzzer. No indication as to where the high water alarm buzzer was relocated though so my search continues...

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JimG said:
Let's be sure we are talking about the same pump...
Click to expand...

I was specifically referring the emergency (hi water) bilge pump the engine room. No audible alert for this pump is heard when the high water float is activated (and the pump comes on). You don't have an audible alarm on this either? Maybe it's just me, but omitting an alarm on the engine room high water indicator is a significant safety "shortcoming" (and out of character with my experience w/ Sea Ray product).

I have not checked whether my forward bilge (shower sump compartment) float switch activates an audible alarm. I will verify this next...
 
JimG said:
Let's be sure we are talking about the same pump... the one that sets off my audible alarm is only accessible from the shower sump box location. It sits behind the sump box towards the aft of the boat.

I have two pumps in the bilge... one located lower than the other. The higher mounted one does not set off the audible alarm.
Click to expand...

That's exactly how my boat is setup as well.

I will say the alarm buzzers (there are more than one) are all bundled directly off the wiring harness and not visible from my bridge area as depicted in the parts diagram.
 
stephenm27 said:
I was specifically referring the emergency (hi water) bilge pump the engine room. No audible alert for this pump is heard when the high water float is activated (and the pump comes on). You don't have an audible alarm on this either? Maybe it's just me, but omitting an alarm on the engine room high water indicator is a significant safety "shortcoming" (and out of character with my experience w/ Sea Ray product).

I have not checked whether my forward bilge (shower sump compartment) float switch activates an audible alarm. I will verify this next...
Click to expand...

Let me make a correction here... I posted that the high mounted float did not set off an audible... but I'm not sure about that now. Looking at the schematic, there should be two audible alarms... one for the sump box location and one for the higher bilge/float switch. To your point, that makes more since.
 
JimG said:
Let me make a correction here... I posted that the high mounted float did not set off an audible... but I'm not sure about that now. Looking at the schematic, there should be two audible alarms... one for the sump box location and one for the higher bilge/float switch.
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JimG--can you provide a page # for the schematic you're using/referring to? I skimmed the electronic copy of the schematics I have but didn't see anything this morning. I probably overlooked it, however...thanks!
 
stephenm27 said:
JimG--can you provide a page # for the schematic you're using/referring to? I skimmed the electronic copy of the schematics I have but didn't see anything this morning. I probably overlooked it, however...thanks!
Click to expand...

PDF page 102 of 176, DC Wiring Diagram (6 of 8) Figure 6.20.1
 
JimG said:
PDF page 102 of 176, DC Wiring Diagram (6 of 8) Figure 6.20.1
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was looking for! So the design is definitely that it (actually both forward and high water ER) should alarm.

Assuming the boat is built to design, I can now chase down why it doesn't on mine. I'll post an update once resolved in the event someone else experiences similar.

Thanks JimG for finding it on the schematic!
 
Stephenm27 - FYI my boat is very late production 2008, I have DTS and the arch is the same as a 2009. The alarm is very loud and I think it comes from the location in the diagram but I have never verified that.
 
Next project: has anyone successfully removed their salon (cabin) door on the 310/330 without removing the large port-side shroud that covers it when open? The screws that attach the upper 2 plastic door slides (which ride in the door track) to the door structure have stripped and allow the door to "rock" noticeably fore and aft . This play also causes great difficulty in opening/closing the door (requiring various amounts of undue force). Tracks and slides are clean/clear and have been lubricated.

I can remove the shroud but it appears to be a very involved effort (removal of factory colored caulking, hidden screws, etc) so I was curious if anyone here has tackled this project and has words of wisdom?

(I have searched exhaustively on the forums but most pertain to other/non-similar design doors. If this has already been covered for a current model 310/330, a link to that thread would be appreciated.)
 
stephenm27 said:
I'll post an update once resolved in the event someone else experiences similar.

Thanks JimG for finding it on the schematic!
Click to expand...

Tonight I have confirmed that both the forward bilge and the emergency bilge pump do in fact result in a loud alarm from under the helm. I can't exactly explain why I wouldn't have noticed the alarm before (when testing) but there's a good chance I was in the engine room with the generator running near my head when I noted no alarm appeared to activate. Or I have an intermittent failure.

At least now I know what it's supposed to do...and will retest periodically to ensure its working.
 
You might try checking the screen in the seacock. With mine, it became clogged preventing cooling water to flow through it. It kept stalling for under current and low voltage.
 
geoman52 said:
You might try checking the screen in the seacock. With mine, it became clogged preventing cooling water to flow through it. It kept stalling for under current and low voltage.
Click to expand...

You should reference a particular post so we know what issue your advise pertains to...
 
lbtraynor said:
We're considering the 310. We currently have a 240 Sundeck. We have two teens. I'd like to find out if there's a big difference between the 310 and the 330 outside of the the few extra feet
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We had a 240 before the 310, I love the 310 but if I did it over I would get the 350. The bed is bigger and in a more normal configuration. You also can walk along the sides without having to open the plastics. I can't imagine it costs much more. Plus in has the 8.1 and they burn less fuel at a higher speed than my boat 6.2 v-drives
 
I just changed the broken upper track and I did remove the panel. I had to cut through the caulking to make the repair. I re caulked the joint with a regular exterior silicone caulk I got from the hardware store. It doesn't exactly match but it looks great. I used blue masking tape to keep the caulk in the joint. By the way if you are replacing the trucks you will need the 31mm and do not use the aluminum replacement track. Stick with the plastic and the doorbell be factory new
 
My LG microwave coffee maker combo craped out on me today, it won't power up. I got to the outlet it's plugged in from the access panel in the cabinet above it. I ran a extension cord to another outlet that I know works and nothing. Has anyone else had a issue with it or removed and replaced it?
 
anyone with kohler generator and 6.2 v drive ever install a sound shield? just a thought ... I would like to quiet the gen but not for a grand ....
wondering if it could be done easily.. I have never seen one stock or otherwise.
 
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