310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

a little FYI on the charger... i had to replace mine it was only putting out 3 amps when the batteries where dead. The new charger was a little too smart for the factory wiring, I had to wire directly from the charger to the batteries. The result is much faster charging, when i am on the hook i run the generator and charger for about 1 hour a day. That is enough for me to run all 3 fridges and under water LEDs all night long as well as the anchor light and the stereo for most of the day. Plus the kids using all the water and leaving lights on.
 
Coffee maker parts can be ordered from Sears. Same make as Kenmore. Ordered replacement carafe last year


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Really? Been looking for carafe forever... It always says out of stock when I go to get it... Do you have a part #?
 
bryan25rs said:
a little FYI on the charger... i had to replace mine it was only putting out 3 amps when the batteries where dead. The new charger was a little too smart for the factory wiring, I had to wire directly from the charger to the batteries. The result is much faster charging, when i am on the hook i run the generator and charger for about 1 hour a day. That is enough for me to run all 3 fridges and under water LEDs all night long as well as the anchor light and the stereo for most of the day. Plus the kids using all the water and leaving lights on.
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did you read my charger rant on the previous page? :) The factory charger is 30 Amp but total maximum output with SR wiring I measured to 12-13 Amps due to the crappy SR wiring. That is a really weird way to save $50...

I bought 2 new 50 Amp breakers for the breaker panel and my 50 Amp charger - but I am considering rewiring the main 12v with BEP electric actuators in the engine room. That could cut out about 16 meters of 4/0 wire and make everything work better. The only reason those thick wires go up there and come back is for the battery switches - nothing else. If battery switches are in the engine room - you could manage with 1/0 vs 4/0 going to the breaker panel since you don't have to put the engine starters through it.

But doing that is a rather large job....
 
Sign me up, I'd love to see how you did it because I've had ZERO luck, including Sears. Seriously, if can provide the details I'll have it ordered today.
 
looking into davit installs for next season… anyone have the hurleys mounted? have pictures and comments?
anyone have any other suggestions besides weaver davits?
thanks its for a mercury 240 air deck and if possible to hold as well a 1999 5hp 2 stroke mercury that weights 47 lbs.
 
Can someone take and post a few pics of their stainless steel windshield center window? I think mine is out of alignment as it dips about an half inch at close and I'm wondering if their is sometype of weatherstrip on the bottom or other part that could be keeping it from aligning. I know I can check the screws on both sides, but since this boat is new to me, I'm not sure if I'm missing anything on the center window. Pics of the window closed and opened, and bottom of the window would be appreciated.
 
Got another question for the group- batteries.... Which one is connected to what ? There's 4... Is it the 2 to port for the port motor and such or what? And then my next question is - are all 4 "house" batteries as well? Anyone know?
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tlrlc said:
Got another question for the group- batteries.... Which one is connected to what ? There's 4... Is it the 2 to port for the port motor and such or what? And then my next question is - are all 4 "house" batteries as well? Anyone know?

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The batteries on mine are like yours in 2 sets. Port and Starboard
- Port batteries supply port engine + outside things (Helm/cockpit electronics, Engine Room things, Lights, Fridge)
- while starboard does starboard engine + cabin 12v things like light, blower, stereo etc.

It is reasonably "balanced" but not the optimal setup. I would have preferred 2 batteries for "house" usage and one battery dedicated to each engine.
 
I think it's to plug the computer into the engine to run diagnostic test etc.... Could be completely wrong...
 
There are a LOT of unused connectors - stop worrying about them :) unless something is not working. I think the diag connector is another one...
 
Not worried about, just interested. I would really like DTS so I would have cruise control...just wondering if that would have been a connector to a module...and so on...
 
kaz911 said:
The batteries on mine are like yours in 2 sets. Port and Starboard
- Port batteries supply port engine + outside things (Helm/cockpit electronics, Engine Room things, Lights, Fridge)
- while starboard does starboard engine + cabin 12v things like light, blower, stereo etc.

It is reasonably "balanced" but not the optimal setup. I would have preferred 2 batteries for "house" usage and one battery dedicated to each engine.
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thanks Kaz911 that helps.
 
MancaveII said:
Not worried about, just interested. I would really like DTS so I would have cruise control...just wondering if that would have been a connector to a module...and so on...
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Retrofitting DTS is cost prohibitive I think. At least the discussions I have seen before suggested it was expensive as....
 
Can someone measure the diameter of the glass plate in their microwave and let me know the diameter. It is the LG microwave with the built in coffee maker. Thanks
 
bryan25rs said:
Can someone measure the diameter of the glass plate in their microwave and let me know the diameter. It is the LG microwave with the built in coffee maker. Thanks
Click to expand...
14"
 
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