310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Weird, same thing on mine when I first got it...the breaker tripped almost every time... wiped the tubes with WD40, checked the connections at the motors, and added grease via the fitting. Seemed like the grease had the best impact on performance and after tripping it just a couple more times, haven't had an issue in weeks and I've been in the engine at least 30 times in that period.
 
Your problem isn't the breaker, its the lift actuator. Try greasing them. There's a zerk by the electric motor. That works for some but I ended up having to replace them. No longer an issue.
Sent from my RM-927_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
 
I had the unpleasant experience of the breaker popping while the hatch was down - it was a disaster. After that I have had installed a round plastic access plate under the seat right where you can easily access the breaker panel even if the hatch won't be open.
problem solved
Andrea

bryan25rs said:
I contacted sea ray and they said they use Bostic 940A Adhesive caulk. West Marine does not carry it so i am going to order it online, unless someone here knows of something that will work better?

Next issue, my engine hatch lifts keep popping the breaker. It happens when the bilge is hot and lucky for me it happens after it has opened enough for me to crawl in and reset it. It has happen about 10 times now, so i dont want to keep pushing my luck. Does anyone know what might be going on with them? Or how to test them?
Click to expand...
 
I have greased them a lot already, how do I determine if the lift actuators are bad?
 
Fuel senders - can anyone provide a model or part number on the Royce puck style? I've concluded that my factory senders are just toast and want to install the best solution. Everything I read is Royce puck style, but I'm unsure of the exact ones for our boat. Thanks.

PS Best I can find is I should be getting the 21" size?
 
Last edited:
bryan25rs said:
I have greased them a lot already, how do I determine if the lift actuators are bad?
Click to expand...

Measure the current draw on each during operation, watch for start inrush current also. If the combined current is more than the breaker rating, you have a bad actuator(s). If it is less, you have a bad breaker.
 
Anyone have someone who can embroider the "sea Ray" in vinyl, I have replaced the rear seat and backrest but the replacement company cannot match the sea ray font...
 
Any chance they kept a pattern and can make another one? I'd love to replace my rear seat in mine.

There is a place locally that can take any artwork and make embroidered version of anything...not sure that will help you. I had some custom and factory logos and lettering put on my Ram truck and it looked great. You should look for a local sporting goods place, they typically have the equipment to make anything into a logo and don't rely on a bank of premade fonts.
 
Ok, Vessel View 7 installed and I ran the Diacom software on both engines. After getting a series of five or six errors
TRIM CKT HI
STEER CKT LO
SEA TMP CKT HI
FUEL LVL CKT HI
PITOT CKT LO
I was able to find on other posts that those are just errors for sensors that don't exist. The Trim Chk Hi is something I can check as I understand there's a way to calibrate the sensor. Still waiting on the royce fuel sensors.

SO, bigger issue - I went to replace the fuel filters and followed the procedures to unplug the fuel modules and run the starter for five seconds to let the fuel pressure down. I went to remove one and gas just poured out so I resealed it. Is there a fuel shutoff or should I be turning the fuel valves by the tanks off? I assume the later based upon what I reading, but want to confirm.
 
i pulled the fully functional 20" toshiba tv out of the main cabin in the spring if anyone is looking for a replacement...
 
a 24" HD wide screen from best buy, - better picture, bigger picture, runs on (12v after i altered), and is digital so it works with antenna
 
how does it fits into the cabin? can you send a picture? I am rally curious to see
I always thought there was no place for a widescreen in that small area..

thanks!
Andrea

tlrlc said:
a 24" HD wide screen from best buy, - better picture, bigger picture, runs on (12v after i altered), and is digital so it works with antenna
Click to expand...
 
and by the way how did you alter it to work with 12v? that's great!
 
I will take a pic this weekend, took some Modification to be able to mount it, as far as 12v it actually runs on 12v from its transformer so you just have to cut the 110 plug, figure out pos, neg and wire it up with a fuse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
okay - another little RANT :(

Just before I went on a boat-less vacation :) I forgot I switched my charger off. That resulted in one very flat set of batteries and the other was slightly flat (1 set < 9.5 volt - other set < 12v). Entirely my own fault.

But I then switched the charger and seemed like things was charging. But not very fast. Actually via "remote" I could follow the charge from my vacation. So it took almost 7 days to completely recharge the batteries.

So I thought - what the heck - no charger should be that slow. I do have a 30 Amp charger - which should charge my total 300 Ah batteries in about 14-16 hours. (10 hours = 300 Ah - but there is a lot of waste - usually 40-50%)

Anyway - I started checking how SR runs the charger cables on the 310. Well they run from the charger -> DC panel under the captains seat. That is a cable distance of about 4 meters (16'). Then it runs "back" again but on a BIG cable. That in itself is not a problem - a bit inefficient but doable.

But then I checked the charger cable. That is 5 mm2 (AWG 10'ish) from the charger to the DC panel. At low Amps that is not a big issue. But at higher Amps - voltage drop is SIGNIFICANT.

Examples (based on charge voltage of 13.6v):
Charge Amps - Voltage Drop
5 Amp - 0.13v
10 Amp - 0.26v
15 Amp - 0.39v
20 Amp - 0.52v
25 Amp - 0.66v
30 Amp - 0.71v

So if you needed 20 Amp charge - your charge voltage @ batteries would only be 13.6 - 0.52v = 13.08 volt - which means your battery probably will not even absorb the 20 Amp at such a low voltage. The total Maximum I saw while on vacation was about 14-16 Amp.

So charger thinks it is charging with 13.6 volt - but batteries only sees 13.08 volt. Charger does not know anything else than what IT spits out....

While the small 5 mm2 cable is within "limits" it is NOT doing your batteries or chargers ANY favours. Charging with to few Amps can actually decrease your battery lifetime.

So next time you feel like being good to your boat - take the time and replace the 5 mm2 cable with 25 mm2 (AWG 3) which is the RIGHT size for 30 Amp chargers to limit voltage drop to much. Voltage drop on AWG 3 - with 4 meter cable - is 0.1 volt.... Anyway the thicker the better (but harder to handle...) AWG 5 would be okay too but to be perfect... AWG 3. :) for 30 Amp chargers - AWG 1 for 50 Amp.

/RANT OUT....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,266
Messages
1,429,649
Members
61,143
Latest member
seanmoconnor10
Back
Top