310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

[MExcelsior]

Marshall,

Quick note.... Leak fixed! The leak was actually coming from the driver side windshield and traveling to that location. Removed black seal and bedded the screws again with sealant. The problem was that I found one screw was missing.

Hope this helps you.
Mike

 

[rwf]

Marshall,

Quick note.... Leak fixed! The leak was actually coming from the driver side windshield and traveling to that location. Removed black seal and bedded the screws again with sealant. The problem was that I found one screw was missing.

Hope this helps you.
Mike

Hmm, my leak behaves differently. It leaks (it looks like) under the windshield, onto the dash, runs around the starboard side of the windshield, drips through the helm speaker grill and into my drink in the cupholder.

At least I have a new thing to try to stop it. Time to pull the windshield seal.

Rich

 

[Bugsy24]

Hmm, my leak behaves differently. It leaks (it looks like) under the windshield, onto the dash, runs around the starboard side of the windshield, drips through the helm speaker grill and into my drink in the cupholder.

At least I have a new thing to try to stop it. Time to pull the windshield seal.

Rich

Rich that would piss me off... No One Screws with my Adult Beverage!!

Thanks Mike!!

 

[JimG]

Hmm, my leak behaves differently. It leaks (it looks like) under the windshield, onto the dash, runs around the starboard side of the windshield, drips through the helm speaker grill and into my drink in the cupholder.

At least I have a new thing to try to stop it. Time to pull the windshield seal.

Rich

Yours does sound different... more like mine was. When mine was new, during heavy rain, water would come out from under the dash and soak my carpet at the helm. The dealer finally found where the caulking (special order, tan) was incomplete around the top of the dash. The windshield had to be removed in order to get to the area needing fixed. My dealer explained, and it makes since, that water is supposed to circle around the dash and drain out the gutter hole at the side (right above your cup holder). He said that by design, water comes in around the bow access window and should drain around either side and out the gutter holes. He also put a small bead of white silicone from the tip of the dash to the glass to insure that the water made it to the drain hole.

 

[tobrie7]

Mine is leaking at the starboard skylight, and the dealer is telling me that all above deck caulking (including rub rail where the deck meets the hull) should be rebedded/caulked every 7 to 8 years. No leaks around the windshield yet = no contaminated adult beverage.

Thanks to Kaz also for his picture with the stereo panel removed. I'm replacing my TV as well, and knew there had to be a 120 outlet back there somewhere!

 

[MExcelsior]

Ok, going crazy trying to find storage for the canvas! Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[kaz911]

Ok, going crazy trying to find storage for the canvas! Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

If your boat is like mine then you have quite a bit of storage hidden behind the SB back support in the "rear cabin" - it is actually hinged - so you can pull out the back - just pull from the top of the back support. It is hinged below.

In mine - all that was in there was the amp for the cockpit speakers. Wires came from and went back behind the main panel. If you have "premium" sound system there might be more. But all can be moved behind the panels without any issues. Then you have about 10x15 inch wide/height - and 5' long storage space. The wooden panel in there can be removed very easily. I put my 220v-110v isolation transformer in there and moved the amp and cables behind the main switch panels. If I had not done that - that would be my canvas storage area - nicely rolled they will fit fine I think.

 

[Calico Jack]

Have you had any luck with your cabin door? We just bought a 2009 310DA with 125 hours. The cabin door was chewing itself up, but it moved easily. The dealer had to take it out, repair the fiberglass, and gel coat the worn area. This came out great, but now the door is so hard to move that my wife was stuck in the cabin last weekend. I've asked a few others to try the door, and all have agreed that it is extremely difficult to operate. It looks to me like there are plastic blocks in the tracks above and below, not wheeled trucks. Should this door have wheels in the bottom track?

I applied a lithium grease to the track to try and ease the movement. The dealer gave me a hard time, saying that only dry lubricants can be used as others will accumulate debris and eventually bind the door in the track. I cleaned the track out thoroughly and applied graphite with no improvement.

I'll hold the dealer accountable to make it right, but I'd appreciate any perspective gained from someone whose run into this problem.

 

[Bugsy24]

Ok, going crazy trying to find storage for the canvas! Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Mike I don't know how much you use that "Tandem Jump Seat" in the Back, but it comes out easily and there's lots of storage in there!! I have the Dink's outboard and 2 really big fenders stored in that spot!

 

[MExcelsior]

Mike I don't know how much you use that "Tandem Jump Seat" in the Back, but it comes out easily and there's lots of storage in there!! I have the Dink's outboard and 2 really big fenders stored in that spot!

We use the aft facing swim platform tandem seat a lot. I ended up storing the canvas along with the sun shade in the seat directly behind the captains chair. (Water tight) We are using the back cockpit seat for vests and fenders. I originally wanted to store the canvas there, but the drainage seems a bit odd and there is usually water in the lower level channel. Btw, doesn't it bother anyone else that they are draining water from that location directly into the bilge? (Drain hole in the shore power locker)

 

[MExcelsior]

A couple of quick questions:

#1 Does anyone know the make and where to pick up the hook and loop material (Velcro) that attaches the speaker panels to the arch in the cockpit? This stuff is really heavy duty and I would like to have some on hand?

#2 We don't use the cabin table hardly at all, and we keep tripping over the base hole. Do any of you have any creative ideas for a cap? Believe it or not, I can't find one online and it seems that they don't produce any.

Thanks and all the best,

Mike

 

[kaz911]

A couple of quick questions:

#1 Does anyone know the make and where to pick up the hook and loop material (Velcro) that attaches the speaker panels to the arch in the cockpit? This stuff is really heavy duty and I would like to have some on hand?


Mike

I think the hoop and loop plastic "velcro" might be the 3M kind (3M Dual lock)

 

[IT'LL DEW]

Hello folks...got a question, anyone on here have to upgrade their battery charger to a higher Amperage model??? I noticed last weekend that my breaker kicked while running my new stereo system along with all the other items on the boat. I reset it several times but it kept kicking off. Went finally got it to reset and charge....but what a pain in my a$$! I spoke with my guy at SeaRay and he felt the new JL audio Amps were pulling too much amps, not allowing the current charger to keep up with the demand, this running the battery totally dead. Any feedback would be much appreciated...

 

[JimG]

Hello folks...got a question, anyone on here have to upgrade their battery charger to a higher Amperage model??? I noticed last weekend that my breaker kicked while running my new stereo system along with all the other items on the boat. I reset it several times but it kept kicking off. Went finally got it to reset and charge....but what a pain in my a$$! I spoke with my guy at SeaRay and he felt the new JL audio Amps were pulling too much amps, not allowing the current charger to keep up with the demand, this running the battery totally dead. Any feedback would be much appreciated...

As a member since late 2009, welcome to your first post!
You failed to mention this breaker issue, while parked right beside me I might add. Are we talking about the breaker for the amps or one for the charger? I'm going to assume the one for the charger and say that yes indeed your power amps are drawing so much current that the charger is having to supplement the batteries. That said, I would think the charger should be current limited and never blow its breaker. I'll bet kaz911 will have some insight here... he has added several additional electronic systems to his boat.

 

[kaz911]

thanks for the confidence Jim

but the 20 amp charger is FAR to small to drive the SR310. It is only 20 Amps - turn on your fridges and a few lights and that was it. And it really does not deliver 20 amps - closer to 15 according to my measurements. This is of course mostly a problem when running on Generator. But I have not "upgraded" my charger yet.


But first step to lower power consumption is to replace ALL light-bulbs - get rid of the old ones and install LEDs. That will save you 7-15 amp consumption. If you want to go further - replaces the fridges with something more "efficient" - Isoterm is much better on your Amp consumption than the crap that is in there from the factory. (Sorry for those of you who like them - but coming from a Sailboat - I am amazed how much noise and power the SR fridges make and consume). And on my boat the cockpit fridge seems to run directly off the battery switch - which should not really be the case. So if possible keep it turned off.

I have just finished installing Maretron battery monitors - so let me know what you want to know the consumption of.

But first step is debugging.... So check the display on the charger - it shows the Amps output pr battery bank - if it is the same charger as mine. List your amplifier models with spec's - and we can calculate.

 

[IT'LL DEW]

Jim...as u know I wasn't good for much on Saturday after our adventurous and aggressive Friday night. I figured u would see this post and chime in or be able to direct me to who might be able to help me. Yes, we are talking about the breaker for the charger and not the amplifiers. Kaz911, all of my lights have been switched to LEDs. As for the Amps, they are the MHD 900/5 and the M200/2. I also put a new Fusion MS AV 700 head unit in too. On the night in question, I had the thru-hull LEDs on, galley LEDs on, courtesy cockpit LEDs on, cockpit fridge on, meat locker fridge on, the Tracvision interface box and of course the stereo. I assumed the fridges automatically switched over to 110 when genny/or shore power was being utilized??? I now realize that us a lot going on and assumed the battery charger could keep up...but I guess not. Probably gonna have to upgrade to a 40 or 60 amp charger....thanks for the quick responses guys!

 

[IT'LL DEW]

Oh yeah...what brand charger/size would u guys recommend??? I was thinking a ProMariner ProNautic 1250p or 1260p?? Any thoughts???

 

[JimFromMD]

I was thinking a ProMariner ProNautic 1250p or 1260p?? Any thoughts???

I have a 1240P charging 2 banks of 2 group 31s. Works great and I like it. I did have one hiccup with it, but Promariner was great about fixing it and FAST!. Great customer support when you call them asking for assistance on selecting a unit and also for getting the charger fixed / troubleshooting.

 

[IT'LL DEW]

Thanks JimFromMd!! Yeah I gathered that as I called them already and they suggested the 1250p....very helpful and friendly. Was it easy to install??

 

[ZZ13]

I have the Promariner ProTech 1230i (30amp) charging 4 group 27s on the same sized boat as the newer 330DA. I have two amps (400W and 200w), a head unit, two fridgerators, bunches of lights (all with LEDs now), 12V Camfro fan. Never had a breaker pop. Maybe I just never turned everything on at once. Guess I better try that.