300 Sundancer questions.

According to others, there is a glob of sealant around the existing wires going through the bulkhead between the cockpit and cabin to seal out rain water from the cabin. You could take out the "shelf unit" under the cockpit sink and see what that looks like. You might be able to feed the cabling inside the existing cable conduit (if there is conduit) from under the sink to the area behind the galley fridge, so that you wouldn't have to poke a hole through the sealant making a new path. I had the galley fridge out on mine once and there is lots of room to get back in there.
 
hstk84 said:
I'm mounting a projector inside my 300DA on the tower
Click to expand...
So...I have to ask, where are you projecting to, the back of the camper, or maybe a screen out on the swim platform? I've never seen a projector in the cockpit of a 30' boat before!
 
hstk, is another option possibly to come down the other side of the radar arch, then behind the helm, and down to the electrical panel where you could mount a DIN-sized player near the stereo? It might be an easier path.
 
bajturner said:
hstk, is another option possibly to come down the other side of the radar arch, then behind the helm, and down to the electrical panel where you could mount a DIN-sized player near the stereo? It might be an easier path.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking, might also be easier to get the audio straight into the aux from that side.

I'm projecting it onto my stern rail on the platform, I have made a lightweight 2mtr x 1.4mtr frame that mounts onto my existing BBQ brackets on the rail. The purpose is to reverse the image and watch it from the beach when we raft up, it's not even summer here and we had 37 degrees Celsius here in oz that past few days. So just preparing for some hot summer nights :)
 
I'll post some pictures once it's all done and possibly a video too :)
 
2004 300 salon flat screen tv install

Just took possession of a 2004 300 dancer. I was hoping that someone could tell me how to remove the padded panel on the in the cabin that is behind the helm on the starboard side. I am wanting to mount a flat screen tv there and was wanting access.
 
A few pictures as promised from our harbour cinema :) got everyone at the marina excited and the sound is awesome too :)
 
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Here’s a quick update on my 12v TV install from earlier this season. Never got around to posting the retrofit.

The TV is a 19" Insignia from bestbuy (model NS-19E310A13) . The TV-only model (vs TV/DVD combo model) comes with an external power pack (cord with transformer box in the middle) that converts 110 to 12v. Instead of using that, I bought a 5Amp cigarette lighter cord from radioshack that is called "enercell Adapt-a-plug” (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3802147). It comes with the 12v end on one end and a generic end on the other. They sell "tips" which you connect onto the generic end to fit various devices.

For the 12v power source, I tapped into the 12v power that is supplied to the DVD and then added a double outlet 12v fixture to plug the TV into. Both really easy changes. I added a double plug because I originally was planning to use my FM transmitter to get the audio from the tv to play through the stereo. This TV was too electronically noisy for that. Since the install, Bill (zz13) helped me add a 12v outlet in the main switch panel as well as a 3.5mm audio input jack that ties to the Clarion head units aux input connection behind the panel. From there I added a Miccus bluetooth receiver to allow transmitting from iphone/ipad, and also bought Miccus's bluetooth transmitter which plugs into the TV's headphone jack. Miccus transmitter paired with the Miccus bluetooth reciever (feeding the 3.5mm audio jack we installed) provides a crystal clear audio connection for the TV audio.


The swing arm I bought from outdoor world because it has a locking mechanism to keep it from swinging out under way. I spoke with the manufacturer and they have several boat customizing outfits that use them regularly, which made me feel comfortable.

Locking Cantilever Swing Arm Mount:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/locking-cantilever-mount/51564#readreviews

More info about the adapt a plug and tips / install based on follow up questions:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/458-300-Sundancer-questions?p=714141#post714141


TV Installed:



TV with Swing Arm Extended: (Swing arm piece needed to be flipped upside down. In it's original configuration, the top of the tv hung too low. I prefered the extra space at the bottom of the tv where the pull out tray is.)


West Marine Double Outlet Installed: (Blue is a piece of blue tape to block/dim the green status indicator on the 12v plug which blazes bright from behind the TV while trying to sleep at night)
 
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I sold my 2004 300DA today. Its been great learning all about a sport cruiser and interacting with all of you on this thread. Take care.
 
Can anyone tell me anything about the 2003 360 searay how does it sit in the water with the 8 1s
 
JimFromMD said:
Here’s a quick update on my 12v TV install from earlier this season. Never got around to posting the retrofit.

The TV is a 19" Insignia from bestbuy (model NS-19E310A13) . The TV-only model (vs TV/DVD combo model) comes with an external power pack (cord with transformer box in the middle) that converts 110 to 12v. Instead of using that, I bought a 5Amp cigarette lighter cord from radioshack that is called "enercell Adapt-a-plug” (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3802147). It comes with the 12v end on one end and a generic end on the other. They sell "tips" which you connect onto the generic end to fit various devices.

For the 12v power source, I tapped into the 12v power that is supplied to the DVD and then added a double outlet 12v fixture to plug the TV into. Both really easy changes.
Click to expand...


Thanks so much for posting this, I have been looking to add a little bigger tv.
Excuse my ignorance with this question, however, on the 12v power source did you just cut the chord the tv came with and connect the 5 amp cigarette lighter chord to it? Also, the 12 volt plug in, is that already installed as a single plug behind the tv somewhere?

thanks in advance.
brian
 
BrianR said:
Thanks so much for posting this, I have been looking to add a little bigger tv.
Excuse my ignorance with this question, however, on the 12v power source did you just cut the chord the tv came with and connect the 5 amp cigarette lighter chord to it? Also, the 12 volt plug in, is that already installed as a single plug behind the tv somewhere?

thanks in advance.
brian
Click to expand...

Hey Brian,
No I left the 110v plug/brick/connector alone. It's still wrapped up like it came out of the packaging. I bought the 12v 5A cord with the generic "adapt-a-plug" end, and the assocated tip "K" that fit the TV from radioshack to use instead. Others have cut the cord that comes with TV (just after the brick on the 12v end side to leave as much 12v cord as possible) and hardwired to that. Just for my own sanity, I prefered to have as few splices involved as possible. Tip "K" fits snugly on the center pin on the tv's connector but is not as fat on the outer diameter as the original that comes with the TV. On the final install I ended up using a couple pieces of electrical tape to make sure it didnt move around or come lose.

I also added the 12v outlets. The current TV plugs into a 110v outlet in the bottom right corner of that cabinet. I connected to the 12v power that feeds the DVD player. Getting the DVD player to come out was a bit of a challenge, but not impossible. Once I had it out, I used the correct color/gauge wire that I bought at West Marine, and tapped into the DVD's 12v leads. Drilled out the back of the cabinet for the 12v outlets and then snaked the wire from the dvd player opening so that they would dangle past where the new hole was. Pulled them through the hole and made my connections, then mounted the outlet to the cabinet in its final position. When you get the extra wires from WM, make sure to get them longer than you think you will need. Having the extra length wasn't necessary, but sure made it easier to do the splicing where you have room to work instead of getting short wires and having to do the splicing in a tight space.

Sent you a PM. If you want to discuss in more detail on the phone, Im happy to do so.

James
 
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RiverGalsMan said:
Stray Cat, the compartment just left of the transom door is not storage. The screwed on panel is there for access to the inside of the deck. When I first got my 300 I had one of the metal camper top attachment bases (the mounting points for the camper top frame) tear out of the fiberglass. The mechanic unscrewed that panel to access the underside of the deck to trough-bolt the bases to the deck. The other side was not as easy. There's a smaller panel on that side that requires the bench to be removed for access.

The RCA jack is probably a plug for an Xbox or game console that will display on a cabin TV. That's just my guess :huh:
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's an RCA as in my boat the same position is where the aux input is for my iphone
 
JimFromMD said:
I bought the 12v 5A cord with the generic "adapt-a-plug" end, and the assocated tip "K" that fit the TV from radioshack to use instead.
Click to expand...

Jim,
Coincidentally, I installed the identical TV this past summer, in very close to the same manner as you. I wasn't sure if the TV required a tightly regulated 12V input, or if it could handle the range the "12V" system on the boat provides (more likely in the 11.5 to 13.5V range), so I plug an adapter into the "12V" socket that will provide regulated 12V to the TV. I would rather not use it, preferring a direct connection like you are using.

I take it you are not experiencing any problems with your power source?
 
bajturner said:
Jim,
Coincidentally, I installed the identical TV this past summer, in very close to the same manner as you. I wasn't sure if the TV required a tightly regulated 12V input, or if it could handle the range the "12V" system on the boat provides (more likely in the 11.5 to 13.5V range), so I plug an adapter into the "12V" socket that will provide regulated 12V to the TV. I would rather not use it, preferring a direct connection like you are using.

I take it you are not experiencing any problems with your power source?
Click to expand...


To be 100% honest, I haven't used the TV a ton since the install. Mostly before going to bed or AM news after sleeping out, but so far no problems. My boat is on a lift so it's not really a situation where you can just go hang out on the boat in a slip and relax / watch a game/ etc. Most of the time on board is either rafted up on the hook with friends or as a transient at a marina.

What adapter are you using? I'm curious.

James
 
JimFromMD said:
What adapter are you using? I'm curious.
Click to expand...

It is on the boat, which, unfortunately is shrink-wrapped at this point (wipes a tear), so I can't give you the exact make and model or snap a pic. It is a universal adapter with a switch that allows you to select the voltage output. I suspected when 12V was selected it would simply be in pass-through mode but I tested the output with a DMM while the engines were running and it did indeed provide 12V.
 
bajturner said:
It is on the boat, which, unfortunately is shrink-wrapped at this point (wipes a tear), so I can't give you the exact make and model or snap a pic. It is a universal adapter with a switch that allows you to select the voltage output. I suspected when 12V was selected it would simply be in pass-through mode but I tested the output with a DMM while the engines were running and it did indeed provide 12V.
Click to expand...

Cool. Didnt know there was such a thing, but it makes sense. That said, no issues so far with my new setup. Hopefully none to come!
 
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