300 Sundancer questions.

My hot water heater bypass. Found behind the hw heater as luck would have it. Thanks previous owner!


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Couple of follow up winterization questions:

1) Still in the water and drained HW heater and installed bypass. I have setup that sends motor's hot water through HW heater and heat exchanger. Going on last cruise this weekend to burn off some fuel and wanted to confirm that running motors and hot water through HW tank while empty will not damage anything. I think it is only the 120V element that should not be run while tank is empty but would enjoy the cruise more if someone could confirm.

2) Motor fogging procedure. I had same Merc 5.0 in last boat but fuel line connections were different. On last boat, I could simply pull of fuel line and had piece of hose that would slide on fuel line connector right before fuel filter and other end would run to tank with fogging mixture (fuel/2 stroke/stablizer). On my 300, all fuel connections between tank and fuel filter are male/female screw connectors. Any guidance how you guys go about this one?

Thanks.
 
jkim1990 said:
Couple of follow up winterization questions:

1) Still in the water and drained HW heater and installed bypass. I have setup that sends motor's hot water through HW heater and heat exchanger. Going on last cruise this weekend to burn off some fuel and wanted to confirm that running motors and hot water through HW tank while empty will not damage anything. I think it is only the 120V element that should not be run while tank is empty but would enjoy the cruise more if someone could confirm.

2) Motor fogging procedure. I had same Merc 5.0 in last boat but fuel line connections were different. On last boat, I could simply pull of fuel line and had piece of hose that would slide on fuel line connector right before fuel filter and other end would run to tank with fogging mixture (fuel/2 stroke/stablizer). On my 300, all fuel connections between tank and fuel filter are male/female screw connectors. Any guidance how you guys go about this one?

Thanks.
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1) I made several runs last fall after I drained the HW tanks and several runs this spring before I filled it back up. Didn't notice any adverse effects. Side note: I am removing those hoses permanantly when I winterize this fall and plugging the openings at the engine block to match the port engine. I only use hot water when connected to shore power or with the genny running. So the electrical heatup is good enough for me. I don't want an unnecessary path out of and back into the engine if I don't need it.

2) Most people that do their own fogging at my marina simply remove the water separator filter, dump out a few ounces of fuel, pour in a few ounces of 2-cycle oil, spin the filter back on and the run the engine until it starts smoking good. They don't mess with undoing and reconnecting fuel connections.
 
ZZ13 said:
1) I made several runs last fall after I drained the HW tanks and several runs this spring before I filled it back up. Didn't notice any adverse effects. Side note: I am removing those hoses permanantly when I winterize this fall and plugging the openings at the engine block to match the port engine. I only use hot water when connected to shore power or with the genny running. So the electrical heatup is good enough for me. I don't want an unnecessary path out of and back into the engine if I don't need it.

2) Most people that do their own fogging at my marina simply remove the water separator filter, dump out a few ounces of fuel, pour in a few ounces of 2-cycle oil, spin the filter back on and the run the engine until it starts smoking good. They don't mess with undoing and reconnecting fuel connections.
Click to expand...

Thanks for response Bill.

1) Have thought about doing same, broker that I bought the boat in FL from said most people down there disconnect hoses to keep salt water from sitting in tanks 12 months a year, less of an issue for me up North but same thought process applies.

2) I did similar on my last boat. I have 2005 300 and funny thing is that fuel water seperator runs direct to gennie and there is not one for the motors. I have the fuel filters that are built into a permanent canister on lower left of motors. I could pour 2 stroke in canister but not sure it would be enough fuel. Do you have similar setup? Sounds like you might have what I had on my 2004 240 Sundeck....
 
jkim1990 said:
Thanks for response Bill.

1) Have thought about doing same, broker that I bought the boat in FL from said most people down there disconnect hoses to keep salt water from sitting in tanks 12 months a year, less of an issue for me up North but same thought process applies.

2) I did similar on my last boat. I have 2005 300 and funny thing is that fuel water seperator runs direct to gennie and there is not one for the motors. I have the fuel filters that are built into a permanent canister on lower left of motors. I could pour 2 stroke in canister but not sure it would be enough fuel. Do you have similar setup? Sounds like you might have what I had on my 2004 240 Sundeck....
Click to expand...
Ahhh. You have the controversial Cool Fuel III module. I have cool fuel 2 with separate fuel separator and separate inline fuel filter.
 
I have a 2003 Sundancer 300.
Where can I get information on boat hieght?

I would like to know bridge clearance and other information related to height.

Any suggestions
 
MaconWaves said:
I have a 2003 Sundancer 300.
Where can I get information on boat hieght?

I would like to know bridge clearance and other information related to height.

Any suggestions
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Section 2.4 of your 300DA owners manual has all the dimensions listed.
 
Can anyone who has the battery adapter that plugs into the DC socket at the helm tell me if the adapter has a fuse and what amp the fuse is. The picture put on this thread as few weeks ago doesn't show a fuse however some of the new adapters have them inside the DC adapter.

Thanks
 
ZZ13 said:
Ahhh. You have the controversial Cool Fuel III module. I have cool fuel 2 with separate fuel separator and separate inline fuel filter.
Click to expand...

Bill - Thanks, thought there was a difference between my 2004 240 and 2005 300 but did not know what it was until you pointed it out. A couple of quick google searches and now understand the controversial part.... Painful but appreciate the information. Thanks much as always.
 
Bildge question - bildge is divided into three comparments, I assume port and starboard compartments drain into center with both bildge pumps?

My starboard compartment drains very slowly and port does not seem to drain at all any more. Where is hole, right against transom in wall that creates the compartments?

I am going to take a plumbing snake down tomorrow AM as i cannot figure out any way else to reach it, motors in the way!
 
Has anyone had to change their track around their companion way door on their 300 searay. If so can you tell me where to purchase the parts and how difficult it is to change.
 
Do you have the 300 searay. Do you no if we would order for the single or the double
 
Beverley said:
Do you have the 300 searay. Do you no if we would order for the single or the double
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I have the same model and make as you, only mine is a 2004 rather than a 2002. According to my parts manual, here are the part numbers for the two tracks. I'd call the the company I posted earlier and tell them this is what you are looking for. They can probably match it up for you. Also, go ahead and get new trucks as well even if you don't think you need them.

1601863 TRACK, SS 300DA-02 CABIN ENTRY UPPER
1601871 TRACK, SS 300DA-02 CABIN ENTRY LOWER

Also, if you finish fixing yours before I do, post pictures of the process and any helpful hints that may help the rest of us.
 
jkim1990 said:
Bildge question - bildge is divided into three comparments, I assume port and starboard compartments drain into center with both bildge pumps?

My starboard compartment drains very slowly and port does not seem to drain at all any more. Where is hole, right against transom in wall that creates the compartments?

I am going to take a plumbing snake down tomorrow AM as i cannot figure out any way else to reach it, motors in the way!
Click to expand...

Hey Jason,
My boat behaves the same way. Starboard drains into the center very very slowly... Port drains to center pretty well. One thing I did earlier this season was snake my shop vac with the crevice tool on it back behind the motors along the inner edge of those wells to the drain corners. I ended up pulling up/out several zip ties (old clipped off ones, and the clipped off tail portions) out as well as clipped off clamp ends and the rubber clamp end protectors. It has drained substantially better although not great since.

Hope everyone weathered Sandy well. Since I was getting short hauled to have the motors winterized and the boat shrink wrapped before being towed back to my lift, I had them just keep the boat on shore for the storm. We got lucky in Annapolis at the expense of fellow boaters and shore-dwellers further up the Atlantic Coast. Having had 3.5 feet of water over my parents property and under the house during Isabel, I have seen my share of hurricane cleanup, but can only imagine the scale that is being dealt with by many from here now.

James
 
Will do thank you very much. We got hold of a searay dealership that looked up what he says are the parts and it comes to a little over a thousand dollars. Does that sound right
 
Beverley said:
Will do thank you very much. We got hold of a searay dealership that looked up what he says are the parts and it comes to a little over a thousand dollars. Does that sound right
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I got an estimate from my Sea Ray dealer for about $900 to do all the work, including the parts. Could it be the quote they gave you includes them doing the work to replace everything? The cost of the parts from Flounder Pounder look to be in the couple hundred dollar range ($15 per foot for the track and $30 for each truck).
 
No that was just for the parts. I sent them the link that you sent me so they can look it up.
 
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