300 Sundancer questions.

After a week in the yard, we finally got on our maiden voyage today, awesome. Couple of questions before I head out again tomorrow and I'm hoping some knowledgeable people on here can help.

1. Waste tank, where is it and how do I empty it?

2. I turn on the fresh water pump and I can get water from the tap, 30seconds later, the switch flips off. Regardless of if I'm using water this happens. Is this a water saving feature or is there something wrong?

3. Sync. I know the port engine is a little thrashed out, am I doing any damage by driving a little harder with the starboard engine to give the port a break? (I'm assuming the sync gauge is there to balance the power output between the engines, but I'm not entirely sure). At low revs, port only has to be a little higher to get the sync level, but up around 4200 on port, starboard is only doing 3600 if I sync and I'm not keen on running port at 4800 just so I can get starboard up to 4200.


I'll be back to ask more questions around trimming the legs, but I want to read up, experiment and learn a little first.
 
Working on windlass, looking for manual, specs, etc. Anyone have for mid-2000's 300? Thanks.
 
jkim1990 said:
Working on windlass, looking for manual, specs, etc. Anyone have for mid-2000's 300? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Send me a PM with your email address. I'll send you the manual and parts list. Was trying to post it to my photobucket, but that's not behaving for the moment.

James
 
rcon said:
1. Waste tank, where is it and how do I empty it?
Click to expand...

You should have a deck plate / fitting marked "waste" just like you have for your fuel tank and fresh water tank. To empty the tank you go to a pump out machine (fuel dock/marina) which sucks the tank contents out. Look on the gunwhales and on the stern.

Where the holding tank is actually located on your boat, I'm not sure. Not familiar with your model year.


rcon said:
3. Sync. I know the port engine is a little thrashed out, am I doing any damage by driving a little harder with the starboard engine to give the port a break? (I'm assuming the sync gauge is there to balance the power output between the engines, but I'm not entirely sure). At low revs, port only has to be a little higher to get the sync level, but up around 4200 on port, starboard is only doing 3600 if I sync and I'm not keen on running port at 4800 just so I can get starboard up to 4200.
Click to expand...

The sync guage is there to help you match the output of the two engines. In most cases you dont want one working harder than the other. It's like two people riding a tandem bike and one not pedaling, or not pedaling at the same rate. One is working hard and the other is a freeloader.

The sync guage is based on engine RPMs. I would check the trim of your outdrives. If one is raised, it may be cavitating, and thus revving higher. Put them both all the way down and see if you still have to run the one engine harder. Also, having seen this on my fathers boat, if your shifters/throttle cables are out of adjustment it may look like you are running one harder in that you may have to push one throttle further forward. Sounds like you are seeing a true RPM difference though.
 
Whew, finally got done reading this whole thread. Wow, wish I discovered this thread years ago.

Anyway, I noticed a few topics that never got answered. Like: starboard side wiper motor replacement (just got done doing mine). Gotta take the false ceiling piece down. The motor won't fit through the light fixture hole. I couldn't find a marina willing to do it so I did it myself. An hour later and some printed instructions from the factory and it was done.

I saw some folks with mystery water in the galley sump box area. Took me forever to figure it out but I would imagine every 300 is the same way. The water comes in through the bathroom window if you don't tighten the black latches with a screwdriver. The water runs behind the molded fiberglass bathroom piece (between the fiberglass piece and vinyl covered wall) and makes its way into a fiberglass compartment under the aft seat on the port side (use a screw gun to access the carpet covered hatch). Once that compartment fills up with water, it spills over a pipe routing hole (I think) and makes its way to the sump box area. Once that filled up some, the water would eventually make its way to the aft carpet where we would notice a wet floor. It took me years to figure this out because it was somewhat of an intermittent problem. I've tested it with a garden hose and proved my theory. Simple fix - bead of almond silicone just below bathroom window so the water coming in the window goes into the bathroom and not behind it. And, most importantly, leave a screw driver in the bathroom so I remember to tighten the window latches when I close it.

If someone already figured this out, sorry for the redundant post.
 
Hey Stupe,
You may have seen my boat up there on lake george with the previous owner. Green hull 2005 300 Sundancer. Must be a huge lake! This will be my 3rd august with it. Not sure when the bank took it back from them / they gave it up though.

James
 
JimFromMD said:
You should have a deck plate / fitting marked "waste" just like you have for your fuel tank and fresh water tank. To empty the tank you go to a pump out machine (fuel dock/marina) which sucks the tank contents out. Look on the gunwhales and on the stern.

Where the holding tank is actually located on your boat, I'm not sure. Not familiar with your model year.




The sync guage is there to help you match the output of the two engines. In most cases you dont want one working harder than the other. It's like two people riding a tandem bike and one not pedaling, or not pedaling at the same rate. One is working hard and the other is a freeloader.

The sync guage is based on engine RPMs. I would check the trim of your outdrives. If one is raised, it may be cavitating, and thus revving higher. Put them both all the way down and see if you still have to run the one engine harder. Also, having seen this on my fathers boat, if your shifters/throttle cables are out of adjustment it may look like you are running one harder in that you may have to push one throttle further forward. Sounds like you are seeing a true RPM difference though.
Click to expand...

Cheers.

On the sync, took it out on Sunday and instead of trying to match the revs or "favor" the port engine, I just used the throttle controllers in unison with slight corrections based on the sync - for the same revs as the maiden voyage, I was getting 20-30% more speed in rougher water. Could cruise comfortably at 22kt were as on Sat (with a 3-400 RPM difference, higher on the less efficient engine) whereas on Sat for similar RPM (but reversed) I was struggling to keep over 17. It is still underpowered, but we knew that when buying.

Everything sounded much better too - on the maiden voyage, keep thinking the boat was fighting itself (which it was!) - but


Will try and isolate both the waste and the water tank on the weekend - will stick my ear near every tank and have someone flush the toilet (it seems to have an electric flush, you push a button), might take some pics of the bilge area and post them for some advice.

Thanks again
m
 
I finally was able to remove my aft bench seat in the cockpit. It had bothered me that my literature said it was removable on the 02-07 for fishing or scuba diving (or whatever), but I could never figure out how to remove it. Turns out, I just wasn't pulling hard enough on the legs. They were stuck in their slot pretty well. Anyway, for those that are interested simply pull up on each of the two legs and fold them back. They are only about 1/4" into the floor. A little WD-40 might get them out easier if you have never removed them. Then remove the pin at each hinge (the pin is the same locking kind used to hold the bimini frame to its mounts) and the bench seat is off. Next time I re-carpet I will have the whole engine room door floor done as one solid piece with holes made for each leg, the table post hole and the access hole.
 
Can anyone tell me if they have replaced the gauges. If so can u tell me where to get them
 
stupe said:
Whew, finally got done reading this whole thread. Wow, wish I discovered this thread years ago.

Anyway, I noticed a few topics that never got answered. Like: starboard side wiper motor replacement (just got done doing mine). Gotta take the false ceiling piece down. The motor won't fit through the light fixture hole. I couldn't find a marina willing to do it so I did it myself. An hour later and some printed instructions from the factory and it was done.

I saw some folks with mystery water in the galley sump box area. Took me forever to figure it out but I would imagine every 300 is the same way. The water comes in through the bathroom window if you don't tighten the black latches with a screwdriver. The water runs behind the molded fiberglass bathroom piece (between the fiberglass piece and vinyl covered wall) and makes its way into a fiberglass compartment under the aft seat on the port side (use a screw gun to access the carpet covered hatch). Once that compartment fills up with water, it spills over a pipe routing hole (I think) and makes its way to the sump box area. Once that filled up some, the water would eventually make its way to the aft carpet where we would notice a wet floor. It took me years to figure this out because it was somewhat of an intermittent problem. I've tested it with a garden hose and proved my theory. Simple fix - bead of almond silicone just below bathroom window so the water coming in the window goes into the bathroom and not behind it. And, most importantly, leave a screw driver in the bathroom so I remember to tighten the window latches when I close it.

If someone already figured this out, sorry for the redundant post.
Click to expand...

I have issues with my aft cabin carpet getting wet but cant figure out why or how. Mine is a 94 300 dancer. Driving me crazy. Thought it was the water tank but dont think so.
 
Anyone have to replace the microwave in the 2002-2007 300 Sundancer? Mine went kaput this weekend and I'm having a heck of a time finding one that fits the dimension of the old one. They are all 1/4 - 1/2 too tall even without the spacer. Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm hoping not to have to take the cabinet down to cut a bigger hole.
 
So most of the places I anchor here in the bay have a muddy bottom or muddy bottom with a covering of rotten leaves/black crud on top. When you haul the anchor and chain/rode it's covered in smelly black/grey gunk and mud. I've done the bucket on a rope thing for a while... then more recently went and bought a 50" coil hose to hose it down via the fresh water washdown spiot in the "trunk". Apparently the flow from that spigot is more than expected because I killed 1/2 to 3/4 of a full tank of water twice without realizing it.

Question:
My latest idea is to tap into the raw water line coming from the air conditioner pump with either a T or Y valve since it's under the front bunk and then use that water as my anchor washdown with a short piece of hose stored in the anchor locker. Has anyone done this? Didnt have a chance to look but I assume there has to be some way to get a hose through from under the front bunk into the anchor locker right? Anyone know of any technical reason why that would be a bad idea (aside from the fact I'd be washing down the deck with brackish water instead of fresh water)? Clearly I would have to have the generator and AC running in order to get water from that line through the pump.

Any other ideas?

Thanks
James
 
JimFromMD said:
So most of the places I anchor here in the bay have a muddy bottom or muddy bottom with a covering of rotten leaves/black crud on top. When you haul the anchor and chain/rode it's covered in smelly black/grey gunk and mud. I've done the bucket on a rope thing for a while... then more recently went and bought a 50" coil hose to hose it down via the fresh water washdown spiot in the "trunk". Apparently the flow from that spigot is more than expected because I killed 1/2 to 3/4 of a full tank of water twice without realizing it.

Question:
My latest idea is to tap into the raw water line coming from the air conditioner pump with either a T or Y valve since it's under the front bunk and then use that water as my anchor washdown with a short piece of hose stored in the anchor locker. Has anyone done this? Didnt have a chance to look but I assume there has to be some way to get a hose through from under the front bunk into the anchor locker right? Anyone know of any technical reason why that would be a bad idea (aside from the fact I'd be washing down the deck with brackish water instead of fresh water)? Clearly I would have to have the generator and AC running in order to get water from that line through the pump.

Any other ideas?

Thanks
James
Click to expand...
James, this doesn't direct answer your question but I keep an extendable brush on the boat for washing the hull. I just dip it into the sea water and brush the stuff off the anchor (usual takes several dips). I try to trap as much water onto the brush as I can. But I don't usual have to worry about cleaning off the chain, just the anchor itself,
 
Does anyone else get water accumulating in water tank area? Seems there is no drain and water finds its way in there and just sits with no where to drain. Stinks and gets moldy!
 
Stray Cat said:
I've never seen my water tank...how do you get at it?
Click to expand...
Pull off the mid-berth seat cushions. Will be a couple of panels underneath with some screws holding them down. Take out the screws, pull off the panels and voila.
 
Last edited:
For what its worth I came up with a easy solution to not having a anchor/chain/rode wash down on the bow. I went to the local hardware store and bought a 25 foot coil hose and an adaptor for a kitchen faucet to attach a garden hose. Now when we pull the anchor up we connect the hose to the galley sink and run it up through the forward hatch. Works like a charm and all you need to turn on is your water pump.

Fred
Patuxent River MD
2005 300 DA
 
Wet$pot said:
For what its worth I came up with a easy solution to not having a anchor/chain/rode wash down on the bow. I went to the local hardware store and bought a 25 foot coil hose and an adaptor for a kitchen faucet to attach a garden hose. Now when we pull the anchor up we connect the hose to the galley sink and run it up through the forward hatch. Works like a charm and all you need to turn on is your water pump.

Fred
Patuxent River MD
2005 300 DA
Click to expand...

Great idea! On my way to hardware store....
 
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