300 Sundancer questions.

Engine noise....not sure if the 350s are that much louder but I usually get comments on how quiet we cruise at in comparrison to many other boats with twins, especially with the canvas off.

Blue lights.....yep, they attract bugs for sure. Not usually a big issue in the PacNW but I have read that many folks experience the swarm. I went with blue on the cockpit floor lights and white on the arch just in case I get attacked.

Did you see Bridog's new pedestal BBQ setup? Post #28 at http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/7427-Grill-installation/page3?highlight=pedastal
Well done Bridog!
 
OK, a couple of quick questions for you all:

1. Like many others have posted here, my fuel sensors are fairly useless. So I use the "Fuel used" gauge on my SmartCraft to determine how much used/left and so I can best determine when to fuel up. I just figure I will reset it each time I fuel up. What is the quickest/easiest way to reset the "Fuel used" gauge back to zero?

2. Anyone know what size/type of windshield wipers to replace the existing ones? And where best to purchase them?

Thanks in advance!

Jason
Miami, FL
2005 300DA
 
OK, a couple of quick questions for you all:


2. Anyone know what size/type of windshield wipers to replace the existing ones? And where best to purchase them?

Dont have the size handy, but dont spend big $$ for wipers at the boat store. When changing mine last time, I accidently dropped the plastic clip and it hit the hull and then skipped off into the drink. Went to Advanced Auto and was able to find replacements with the same clip. Added benefit is just being able to replace the rubber blade inserts instead of the entire wiper.
 
OK, a couple of quick questions for you all:

1. Like many others have posted here, my fuel sensors are fairly useless. So I use the "Fuel used" gauge on my SmartCraft to determine how much used/left and so I can best determine when to fuel up. I just figure I will reset it each time I fuel up. What is the quickest/easiest way to reset the "Fuel used" gauge back to zero?

2. Anyone know what size/type of windshield wipers to replace the existing ones? And where best to purchase them?

Thanks in advance!

Jason
Miami, FL
2005 300DA
Bring up the fuel used screen and then press the center button and the right button simultaneously until it resets. I only use fuel used as well, after a fill up. There are some earlier posts here that recommend the Royce senders as more reliable and accurate fuel level replacements. They are about $85 each (need one for each tank).
 
Bring up the fuel used screen and then press the center button and the right button simultaneously until it resets. I only use fuel used as well, after a fill up. There are some earlier posts here that recommend the Royce senders as more reliable and accurate fuel level replacements. They are about $85 each (need one for each tank).

Another "fuel used" user here....the stock senders are more than frustrating.
 
Dont have the size handy, but dont spend big $$ for wipers at the boat store. When changing mine last time, I accidently dropped the plastic clip and it hit the hull and then skipped off into the drink. Went to Advanced Auto and was able to find replacements with the same clip. Added benefit is just being able to replace the rubber blade inserts instead of the entire wiper.

+1. I just changed mine, went to Pep Boys, grabbed what looked to be same size and connector and works great.
 
Splash day was yesterday. Ran from mechanic's dock to new dock (about 20 minutes) and took another quick cruise with family. :smt038

She handles great and still feel like I have lots to learn but all good.

I had a problem with stereo that I have posted in the general maintenance forum (thought it was better place) but would be great if anyone here has thoughts for me....

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/50737-Stereo-working-intermittently?p=570570#post570570
 
Dont have the size handy, but dont spend big $$ for wipers at the boat store. When changing mine last time, I accidently dropped the plastic clip and it hit the hull and then skipped off into the drink. Went to Advanced Auto and was able to find replacements with the same clip. Added benefit is just being able to replace the rubber blade inserts instead of the entire wiper.
Just replaced mine last week and they were 18" blades. I bought Anco blades for $9 each at Target. My wiper arms have the little adapter screwed onto the end of them that allow use of standard auto blade fittings. Not sure if everyone has these type of arms.
 
This is the bulb I installed.......in the "BA15D" base
http://www.ledlight.com/s25-24-led-light.aspx#Reviews

I installed the blue ones and am happy with them. Looks like the ones you listed should work as well.
:thumbsup:
I gave these 24 LED lights a shot. They were much too long for my Attwood fixtures. So its the 9LED version that I previously tried or something else.

Frankly, I may just give up on cockpit LED lighting due to the bug draw potential. I still have the blue arch lights installed and will keep those in for a while to see how it goes. I am putting the factory cockpit bulbs back in for now. The factory bulbs are a little warm and use more power, but I am 99% of the time going to use them either plugged into shore or with generator on.

Different story for the cabin. I need to go LED there because the heat generated by the factory bulbs makes for more work for the air conditioner.
 
So I know this may be a dumb question, but I've looked at the schematics/wiring diagrams in the Manual and I'm just not proficient at reading them. I'm looking into replacing my batteries and the charger and moving to AGMs. In looking at my battery setup, I've got 4 Group 27 Flooded cell batteries, set up in 2 banks of 2 batteries connected in parallel. In doing some reading on here, folks recommend having batteries dedicated to the engine or generator, and then some dedicated for house/electronics. Does anyone have theirs set up that way, or mostly the factory setup like mine? Has anyone mapped out what is connected to what? It appears that each bank is connected to a motor, and then the rest of the 12v gear is divided among the two. Some cabin lighting and the cockpit fridge on the port bank, and some other lighting on the starboard. Seems the GPS/RADAR feed from the starboard, etc.

I've never killed the batteries while on the hook, but it does seem to make sense that you would want at least the generator on its own battery so that if all else failed, you could get that going and use the charger to get you back in business. Initially I was thinking that I may just turn off the bank that has the generator attached (once I figure that out) but then again I'm not sure what else is on that bank that I would be using. Anyway, I'll have more time to look into it this weekend, but thought someome may have already done some mapping.

I'm considering moving to group 31 AGMs and upgrading to the Promariner PronauticP 1240. Anyone using either of those?

Thanks
James
 
More lighting stuff. I bought two E14 to candelabra (E12) conversion sockets (only 98 cents each at my local lighting store) to make it easier to find replacement bulbs for the ac incandescent bulbs in the cabin ceiling. Looks like the replacement bulb will need to be in the 2.5 inch long and 1.5 inch in diameter range to fit. Maybe a little longer will fit. Also, best I could research is 25W incandescent is around 200-250 lumens. So that's that the lighting level needed. I haven't found anything in the led sites that fit that profile/lighting level yet. Everything is just too long. I did find that there are halogens that should fit.
 
I gave these 24 LED lights a shot. They were much too long for my Attwood fixtures. So its the 9LED version that I previously tried or something else.

Frankly, I may just give up on cockpit LED lighting due to the bug draw potential. I still have the blue arch lights installed and will keep those in for a while to see how it goes. I am putting the factory cockpit bulbs back in for now. The factory bulbs are a little warm and use more power, but I am 99% of the time going to use them either plugged into shore or with generator on.

Different story for the cabin. I need to go LED there because the heat generated by the factory bulbs makes for more work for the air conditioner.

That is just bizarre as we have the same boat one year apart and the 24 LED bulbs fit fine. Go figure....
 
What do you all do for creative storage of the sun pad and the cockpit lounge pad to keep them out of the way? I have all the other storage figured out.

- Trunk has fenders, lines and power cord
- Rear cockpit seat fits the front 5 glass panels, the slanted aft curtain, two foldup canvas chairs and the cockpit canvas poles (tight fit but it works). I don't use the full back canvas, its at home under a bed - keep the slantback for emergency use in a storm
- Helm storage has all 7 life jacket, some buckets and the tool kit and still room to spare
- Secret compartment gets the cockpit cover rolled up real tight and spare parts (impellers, IAC, few other things)
- One salon couch compartment has the gelcoat cleaning stuff and the Makita rotary and spare shop towel roll
- The other salon couch compartment has the big Sea Ray bag of the manuals
- Galley under sink has all the household cleaning products
- Starboard cabinet above mid-birth has miscellaneous appliances
- Starboard cabinets above couch are largely empty right now (probably will fill them up with clothes over time)

I was trying to figure out if there is a way to hang these cushions from the mid-birth ceiling, but I think that's too tricky of a project for me. Any ideas?

By the way, Sea Ray Living came yesterday and a 300DA is on the cover. There is a soft article about the owner as well. Has an interesting single full front glass panel with a big zip screen.
 
What do you all do for creative storage of the sun pad and the cockpit lounge pad to keep them out of the way? I have all the other storage figured out.

- Trunk has fenders, lines and power cord
- Rear cockpit seat fits the front 5 glass panels, the slanted aft curtain, two foldup canvas chairs and the cockpit canvas poles (tight fit but it works). I don't use the full back canvas, its at home under a bed - keep the slantback for emergency use in a storm
- Helm storage has all 7 life jacket, some buckets and the tool kit and still room to spare
- Secret compartment gets the cockpit cover rolled up real tight and spare parts (impellers, IAC, few other things)
- One salon couch compartment has the gelcoat cleaning stuff and the Makita rotary and spare shop towel roll
- The other salon couch compartment has the big Sea Ray bag of the manuals
- Galley under sink has all the household cleaning products
- Starboard cabinet above mid-birth has miscellaneous appliances
- Starboard cabinets above couch are largely empty right now (probably will fill them up with clothes over time)

I was trying to figure out if there is a way to hang these cushions from the mid-birth ceiling, but I think that's too tricky of a project for me. Any ideas?

By the way, Sea Ray Living came yesterday and a 300DA is on the cover. There is a soft article about the owner as well. Has an interesting single full front glass panel with a big zip screen.

My filler cushion for the cockpit sun pad and the lounger for the bow live in the aft cabin on the port side seat behind the stairs coming down into the cabin.... that is, if they get to go for a ride. Havent used them much, so they're not on board all that often. They and the cockpit carpets are good roommates living on a shelf in the garage.
 
Also, just to make sure I am not missing anything, there is only single drive trim on port throttle but two drive trims to bring them up to trailer. So if I trailer trim drives to different points and use trottle trim to bring them down, will higher of two drives continue down after the first one? Both my outdrive gauges don't work and too much $ to fix.
 
Also, just to make sure I am not missing anything, there is only single drive trim on port throttle but two drive trims to bring them up to trailer. So if I trailer trim drives to different points and use trottle trim to bring them down, will higher of two drives continue down after the first one? Both my outdrive gauges don't work and too much $ to fix.
Your gauges most likely work fine. Your trim position sensors on the drives are probably shot. Your trim limit sensors on the drives may be shot as well. I am not sure but I think as long as you hold the trim button down the drives will try to move until they physically have to stop. The trim limit sensor is intended to stop the up movement at a preset point where it is still safe to operate the drives. When that sensor fails its often in a manner where it signals that the drive is up to the safest point, regardless of where it is, thus halting movement and rendering that switch basically inoperable. So then you need to use the trailer button to move the drive even if its in the safe range. I personally by-passed the trim limit sensors so that the single button on the port throttle will always move the drives up and down in sequence. I plan to try to keep my trim position sensors working so that I know the position of the drives (since I don't use the limit sensor).
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
113,282
Messages
1,429,970
Members
61,150
Latest member
Wonderball2Swilm
Back
Top