300 Sundancer questions.

[firecadet613]

You gotta share! PM me if too much info, starting my own list but would rather build from base of experience. Thanks.

I agree. Post the list and see what we can add to make it comprehensive for all!

 

[ZZ13]

I agree. Post the list and see what we can add to make it comprehensive for all!

Here is the rest of it:

Stern Drive (Bravo III):

Activity	Frequency	Last Done	Next Due
Drive Service (Remove drive): - Torque steering nuts to 55 ft-lb - Grease gimbal, check bellows, check engine alignment - Grease trim hardware (during drive reassembly) - Replace O-rings; Grease U-joints, shift linkage, shaft splines	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace gear oil	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Grease prop shaft	Annually	Oct/2010	Fall/2012
Replace anodes (check every 6 months)	Annually	Oct/2011	Fall/2012
Paint drives	Annually	Mar/2012	Spring/2013
Test Mercathode system and repair as needed	Annually	Oct/2011	Fall/2012

Parts: 710-888760Q04 Bravo III Anode Kit (Magnesium: clean fresh water)
710-888761Q04 Bravo III Anode Kit (Aluminum: brackish/salt water)

Generator (Kohler 5E):

Activity	Frequency	Last Done	Next Due
Change oil/filter	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace impeller	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace spark plugs	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace anode	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace water separating filter	Annually	May/2012	Spring/2013
Check coolant level	Annually	Nov/2011	Fall/2012
Replace in-line fuel filter	Every 3 years	Nov/2011	Fall/2014

Parts: 359771 Oil Filter
359978 Impeller & gasket kit
359979-A Spark Plugs (2)
260085 Anode
267987 Fuel Filter
35-802893T Water separating filter

Other:

Activity	Frequency	Last Done	Next Due
Clean/wax gel coat	Every 6 months	Oct/2011	Spring/2012
Clean/condition canvas	Annually	Spring/2012	Spring/2013
Paint bottom	Every 2 years	Spring/2012	Spring/2014
Clean/condition cockpit vinyl	As needed	n/a	n/a
Clean sea strainers	As needed	n/a	n/a
Flush fresh water system	As needed	n/a	n/a
Clean shower sump	As needed	n/a	n/a
Replace holding tank filter	As needed	n/a	n/a
Re-caulk	As needed	n/a	n/a

 

[jkim1990]

The spark plugs are platinum and the manual recommends replacement at 300 hours. I changed mine at 300 hours and the looked great. You may also be able to get the plugs at a Napa dealer cheaper. The plug number was the same and I paid around $10 per plug.

I assume you have your engine fogged with fogging mixture (2 stroke and gas run through engine)? I was told once that this fouled the plugs.

 

[jkim1990]

Yes, the mid-birth TV is only wired to DVD players (one in the starboard cabinet of the mid-birth and the one in the galley). No factory antenna hook-up there. How many RCA wires do you have hanging down (one set of three or 2 sets)?

Spent some time ripping it all apart today, including the back panel of the TV cabinet so I could access the cables and see where everything is running. Not sure how I am getting the back panel on considering it bolts from the front!

I did not have your post with me but traced out pretty much what you provided, wiring has all been changed by last owner and video suppressors are not longer in the circuit. I am going to print the post and see if I can correct the wiring next weekend.

Last question as long as I have you, I have newer Sanyo HDTV that according to the web, has the digital convertor in TV. I read a few places that the factory Glomex could also pick up digital signal. If Glomex is on and connected, should I see some digital stations (provided I am close enough to tv stations, I am on south shore of Long Island so should be a few good stations around).?
Thanks for the help on wiring, another money and time saving winner for clubsearay!

 

[ZZ13]

Spent some time ripping it all apart today, including the back panel of the TV cabinet so I could access the cables and see where everything is running. Not sure how I am getting the back panel on considering it bolts from the front!

I did not have your post with me but traced out pretty much what you provided, wiring has all been changed by last owner and video suppressors are not longer in the circuit. I am going to print the post and see if I can correct the wiring next weekend.

Last question as long as I have you, I have newer Sanyo HDTV that according to the web, has the digital convertor in TV. I read a few places that the factory Glomex could also pick up digital signal. If Glomex is on and connected, should I see some digital stations (provided I am close enough to tv stations, I am on south shore of Long Island so should be a few good stations around).?
Thanks for the help on wiring, another money and time saving winner for clubsearay!

My factory Glomex on a 2004 picks up the digital signals fine. I just told the HDTV to do its scan and it found some 27 local digital channels, of which 20 or so seem to be foreign country news....

I can trace the video wiring through those two suppression boxes for you if you'd like? Wouldn't be able to get to it until Thursday. Ripped out the back panel, eh. I went with a big hole with a hole saw on my drill. At least you'll have unrestricted access now. TV should block its view from the outside.

 

[jkim1990]

I can trace the video wiring through those two suppression boxes for you if you'd like? Wouldn't be able to get to it until Thursday. Ripped out the back panel, eh. I went with a big hole with a hole saw on my drill. At least you'll have unrestricted access now. TV should block its view from the outside.

That would be great! The panel is currently sitting in the back of the cabinet, loose. I was thinking about pulling it out all together but 120v plug is in it. One step at a time,get tv working and then figure out how to get it all back together. Thanks again.

 

[Stray Cat]

Jeff - I just did my plugs as well and agree on gained respect for technicians that work on boats. I figure the job description is part he-man, surgeon and contortionist.

I am surprised at the life that you got out of the plugs, my mechanic recommends changing every year, would be curious of others experience in this area. With price of plugs and scraped knuckles, would be nice to do this less often.

Here's the way I look at the plug thing....In an auto application, it is suggested to run an iridium plug for 100K miles. Now at 50 mph, that totals 2000 hrs of use. Depending on the length of your boating season, or the amount of run time you put on your engines each year, I think you're selling yourself short by changing iridium or platinum plugs every 3 yrs just because the calendar says to. As long as the ignition system and the fuel injection is running top notch, I think the new breed of plug can provide 300 hrs of service easily. Now having said that, if it takes someone 10 years to log 300 hrs, then I'd be concern about the plug taking a permanent set to the theads in the head.

My theory may be flawed, but after my observation of how 16 of my plugs appeared after being in service since day one...plugs have come a long way...they sure have in price too!

 

[JimFromMD]

My factory Glomex on a 2004 picks up the digital signals fine. I just told the HDTV to do its scan and it found some 27 local digital channels, of which 20 or so seem to be foreign country news....

I can trace the video wiring through those two suppression boxes for you if you'd like? Wouldn't be able to get to it until Thursday. Ripped out the back panel, eh. I went with a big hole with a hole saw on my drill. At least you'll have unrestricted access now. TV should block its view from the outside.

ZZ (Sorry Havent seen your real name on here yet!)

Have you had your glomex off its mount? They took mine off when it was shrink wrapped and when I went to put it back on, there's just a wire sticking up from the mount on the arch. (Bare copper wire sticking out of the center of the coax vs a standard coax looking fitting. On the glomex connection, it looks like there's a threaded fitting in there that you would "screw" the glomex down onto by spinning it (the glomex). Is that what you have? The only other thing I can figure out is that the "coax connection" end got pulled off and is attached to the glomex inside the fitting because it shouldnt have been "spun" off. There's also a set screw on the glomex that I'm assuming was to hold it in place on the base.

Any ideas? I have some pictures on my cell phone I can add to the post in a few. I'll have to email them to my work account from outside and then add them. Unfortunately I didnt think to take one of the wire up in the mount on the arch. (now with photos)

Thanks
James

 

[ZZ13]

I have not had my Glomex off the arch. Sounds like the cable end connector fell of the cable, from your description. You can get a twist on version cable connector end from any store (hardware, electronics, etc). Do you have the Glomex manual? I think the installation setup is illustrated in it.

 

[Bridog]

Wrong thread

 

[ZZ13]

ZZ (Sorry Havent seen your real name on here yet!)

Have you had your glomex off its mount? They took mine off when it was shrink wrapped and when I went to put it back on, there's just a wire sticking up from the mount on the arch. (Bare copper wire sticking out of the center of the coax vs a standard coax looking fitting. On the glomex connection, it looks like there's a threaded fitting in there that you would "screw" the glomex down onto by spinning it (the glomex). Is that what you have? The only other thing I can figure out is that the "coax connection" end got pulled off and is attached to the glomex inside the fitting because it shouldnt have been "spun" off. There's also a set screw on the glomex that I'm assuming was to hold it in place on the base.

Any ideas? I have some pictures on my cell phone I can add to the post in a few. I'll have to email them to my work account from outside and then add them. Unfortunately I didnt think to take one of the wire up in the mount on the arch. (now with photos)

Thanks
James

I think that may be your screw on cable connector right there in the Glomex. They may have just loosened the set screw and then pulled the Glomex straight up to remove it. In doing that they just pulled the connector off of the cable. I am just analyzing what I can see in the picture, so its just a theory and I may be wrong (how's that for hedging).

 

[Her Diamond 2]

Hi Jkim 1990
I have the marina winterize the engines (I havn't been brave enough to winterize the engines) but my marina tells me they do use some cocktail. Either way the fogging oil should burn off in no time. I've never experienced any problems with fouled plugs on any of my boats after winterizing. You could pull a few plugs each spring after a good run and see what the plugs look like but I bet you'll be suprised.

 

[Bel_Mar_Pointe]

I finally pulled the bulb in the Attwood fixture and its the "90" dual contact bayonet. The plug measures .59 inches and is 1.25 inches tip to tail. Bulb 83634 in the dual contact configuration at LEDLIGHT looks like the exact replacement (my original BA9 recommendation was the wrong size). It says its for the "90". I'll buy three and report back.

This is the bulb I installed.......in the "BA15D" base
http://www.ledlight.com/s25-24-led-light.aspx#Reviews

I installed the blue ones and am happy with them. Looks like the ones you listed should work as well.
:thumbsup:

 

[ZZ13]

That would be great! The panel is currently sitting in the back of the cabinet, loose. I was thinking about pulling it out all together but 120v plug is in it. One step at a time,get tv working and then figure out how to get it all back together. Thanks again.

Got out to the marina today. Jason, I have two IsoMAX boxes on the inside of the cabinet. Each has two RCA connectors on the bottom. The right connector is the input and the left connector is the output. The video cable coming from the DVD player splits and each split goes to a IsoMAX input. One output goes to the galley TV and the other output goes to the mid-birth TV.

 

[jkim1990]

Got out to the marina today. Jason, I have two IsoMAX boxes on the inside of the cabinet. Each has two RCA connectors on the bottom. The right connector is the input and the left connector is the output. The video cable coming from the DVD player splits and each split goes to a IsoMAX input. One output goes to the galley TV and the other output goes to the mid-birth TV.

ZZ13 - You are a good man for taking the time to do this. Going to print both your posts and re-wire and test this weekend. I will let you know. Thanks a ton.

 

[ZZ13]

This is the bulb I installed.......in the "BA15D" base
http://www.ledlight.com/s25-24-led-light.aspx#Reviews

I installed the blue ones and am happy with them. Looks like the ones you listed should work as well.
:thumbsup:

The 9 LED version I ordered arrived and they fit great. But not bright enough and not wide enough of a flood. So I think I'll return them and try your 24 LED recommendation. Those are .25 inches longer so I am a little concerned it will not fit inside the lens. I measured and it looks like it will just touch the lens. Do you have an clearance between the end of the LEDs and the lens?

 

[Bel_Mar_Pointe]

The 9 LED version I ordered arrived and they fit great. But not bright enough and not wide enough of a flood. So I think I'll return them and try your 24 LED recommendation. Those are .25 inches longer so I am a little concerned it will not fit inside the lens. I measured and it looks like it will just touch the lens. Do you have an clearance between the end of the LEDs and the lens?

I didn't measure the clearance but it doesn't touch the lens on my boat. I didn't notice it to be that tight of a fit either.....hmmmmm. The illumination seems about right though.

 

[Bev & Earl]

Does anyone know if the drivers seat comes out so we can get at the panel beside it.

 

[Stray Cat]

Bev & Earl: I removed that access panel by using a tight right angle phillips screw driver, and a 1/4 drive ratchet and a socket that will fit a phillips screwdriver bit....that and some persistance. I looked at removing the seat, however the hold down bolts farthest away from the seat base access door were too far for my reach.

To remove the stowage panel with the drink holder requires removal of the vinyl side panel first. To get the vinyl side panel off of my boat, I had to remove the circular access panel to get at the nut on the hold down bolts that holds the vinyl panel inplace. There is another hold down near the the shift levers...I think I got to that one by removing the shift lever counsole.

 

[jason78]

ZZ (Sorry Havent seen your real name on here yet!)

Have you had your glomex off its mount? They took mine off when it was shrink wrapped and when I went to put it back on, there's just a wire sticking up from the mount on the arch. (Bare copper wire sticking out of the center of the coax vs a standard coax looking fitting. On the glomex connection, it looks like there's a threaded fitting in there that you would "screw" the glomex down onto by spinning it (the glomex). Is that what you have? The only other thing I can figure out is that the "coax connection" end got pulled off and is attached to the glomex inside the fitting because it shouldnt have been "spun" off. There's also a set screw on the glomex that I'm assuming was to hold it in place on the base.

Any ideas? I have some pictures on my cell phone I can add to the post in a few. I'll have to email them to my work account from outside and then add them. Unfortunately I didnt think to take one of the wire up in the mount on the arch. (now with photos)




Thanks
James

James,

What you are seeing is a very common problem seen with the original installation method of the Glomex antennas. Apparently on many of these cruisers, Sea Ray left no slack in the coax line causing the coax to pull from the Glomex connector. Many (including me) have reported it was not conneted to begin with because it was so tight it pulled off when they installed the Glomex dish. What I (and others) have done to solve this problem is get another 2 foot or so piece of coax and splice it in to the existing run so you have a very minimal slack loop inside the arch. Then the Glomex can be removed without pulling off the connector. You will need a "special" Glomex tool to screw the connector back in to the dish. They are only a couple dollars from Imtra.