300 Sundancer questions.

ZZ - I replaced the caps and rotors last year towards the end of the season. They were hardly carbon tracked when I replaced them. The plug wires are still in very good condition inside the boot and the jacket cover.
 
LED light retrofit... Posting this here since it's for our model, but writing it up based on some discussion in the 280 forum. All the bulbs were ordered from superbright LEDs. I was having trouble finding solid links to the appropriate pieces of their pages but you can find all these under the Boat/RV listing.

Directional / “reading lights” in the cabin.
G4-WHP18-TAC. (w=warm white, cw=cool white) This has 18 led’s on a tower that gives 360 degree coverage plus some directly out the front of the fixture. I tried the one with 15 LEDs and it wasn’t bright enough for me. I also tried the G4-CWHP18-TAC but the cool color was a bit harsh for my preference. One thing I have noticed though, is that if I’m out on a rough day in the bay, I did have two of them shake loose. The front of my fixtures capture the bulb, but I did have to slide them back in. Perhaps I need to just crimp the sockets a little so they hold on the 2 pins more tightly.

Arch lights – My arch fixtures are like this (google for image) Perko 1146DP112V model which has a festoon bulb in it. For these I went with the 4210-BHP6 bulb. This has 6 high powered LEDs on a flat wafer all facing the same direction. Originally I tried the 4210-BHP12, which has 12 smaller LEDs going around the circumfrence of the entire bulb which gives 360-degree coverage. My fixtures aren’t reflective inside, so I felt I was losing light from the LEDs facing upward toward the black back of the fixture. I aimed the flat wafer straight down.

Stern light – Same Perko fitting as the arch lights. Used 4210-CWHP6 for the cool white look that matches the LED anchor light that was installed when I had my radar and sea view mount installed. This bulb is very bright, and while I don’t do much night boating, I had a friend watch as we left a fireworks display and he could see my light until we rounded a bend in the river. Well over the 2mile requirement.

My 2 cockpit lights and the one lighting the floor area by my helm were Attwood fixtures with a bayonet style base. I couldn’t find a blue replacement bulb that would fit in the housing with this style base. I found red, green, and orange from various sources, but that’s because the same style bulb is used in some nav lights. For these three, I chose to replace the fixtures with the same Perko ones as in the arch and used the 4210-BHP6 blue bulb installed facing slightly angled toward the floor vice paralell to the wall. This reduced the glare a bit while sitting in the cockpit at night. I personally hate seeing a light as opposed to indirect lights, but I never found a slightly opaque lense or frosted lense that would take some of the "hot spots" out.

Of course Murphy’s law was in full effect this year. We had an unusually large mayfly/midge season this spring and they stayed around through the summer. If you know these flies, they don’t bite, they just swarm and land on anything light colored that is lit up at night. So aside from being annoying, they leave behind green dots of either eggs or waste (not sure which) that usually requires a re-waxing to get off. So after all that effort, I only got to use my arch/cockpit lights a few times. Overall I like how it came out. Someone did make a comment though (which I never thought about, and don’t know how much I believe) which was that bug-zappers use blue lights for attraction, so maybe they’re not such a good idea. I think zapper lights look more violet however.

Hope this helps. I wish I knew what bulbs were in the overhead fixtures in the head and galley. Some are 12v and some are 110v. Guess I’ll think about that for the next few months until the shrink wrap comes off again!


James
I finally got to the "replace bulbs" item on my punch list. I pulled the cabin/salon overhead bulbs and the DC bulb is the same G4 halogen as the swivel lights. The A/C bulb is a 25W E14 size pictured below. It gives off a ton of heat - great for the winter, bad for the summer. I browsed through superbrightled site and couldn't find any E14 bulbs. I forgot to check the lights in the head. James, I have the same three Attwood cockpit lights you had. Also, I found these as potential fits in blue for the bayonet bulbs: http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-5-led-light.aspx

IMG-20120328-00092.jpg
 
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I finally got to the "replace bulbs" item on my punch list. I pulled the cabin/salon overhead bulbs and the DC bulb is the same G4 halogen as the swivel lights. The A/C bulb is a 25W E14 size pictured below. It gives off a ton of heat - great for the winter, bad for the summer. I browsed through superbrightled site and couldn't find any E14 bulbs. I forgot to check the lights in the head. James, I have the same three Attwood cockpit lights you had. Also, I found these as potential fits in blue for the bayonet bulbs: http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-5-led-light.aspx

IMG-20120328-00092.jpg



ZZ,
I read somewhere on here (maybe 280 forum or 320 forum) about that same AC bulb for the overhead, and that others have tried various replacements, but found that the original bulb's either thread depth or thread spacing was off from those on the replacements which were found. When I read that thread, I emailed the folks at supberbrightleds, but never heard back. I figured that I would call them this spring since i had such good luck that way in the past. Just havent gotten around to it yet.

I understood that the blue bayonettes may not fit in the attwood housing because of their height (base to tip of light) exceeding the space from the inside of the housing to the underside of the lense. Give them a shot though!

As a side note... the blue light doesn't scare away any bugs as potentially reported, nor did it seem to attract any more than the white. That said, I didn't get to use them much because we had such a crop of "Mayflies" or "midges" last season. I have already seen quite a few this spring as well. DAMN! More bugs, and more green midge-poop to wax off.

James
 
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ZZ,
I read somewhere on here (maybe 280 forum or 320 forum) about that same AC bulb for the overhead, and that others have tried various replacements, but found that the original bulb's either thread depth or thread spacing was off from those on the replacements which were found. When I read that thread, I emailed the folks at supberbrightleds, but never heard back. I figured that I would call them this spring since i had such good luck that way in the past. Just havent gotten around to it yet.

I understood that the blue bayonettes may not fit in the attwood housing because of their height (base to tip of light) exceeding the space from the inside of the housing to the underside of the lense. Give them a shot though!

As a side note... the blue light doesn't scare away any bugs as potentially reported, nor did it seem to attract any more than the white. That said, I didn't get to use them much because we had such a crop of "Mayflies" or "midges" last season. I have already seen quite a few this spring as well. DAMN! More bugs, and more green midge-poop to wax off.

James
Fortunately that site shows the dimensions of the BA9 bulb. I'll check the measurements and if they fit I'll buy 3. I'll take the risk on trying 3 $4 bulbs before putting in 3 new fixtures at $44 each. Stay tuned.
 
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I thought I'd share some of my experience with spark plug life...After 6 years, 300 hrs, I finally changed my spark plugs. My 350 Mags came from Mercruiser with the AC platinum plugs. I was pleased that each plug maintained the .060 gap, and the condition of each one looked like they could've continued on. I had fear that being installed that long they would be frozen to the head...not at all, each one broke free with some effort.

Jeff - I just did my plugs as well and agree on gained respect for technicians that work on boats. I figure the job description is part he-man, surgeon and contortionist.

I am surprised at the life that you got out of the plugs, my mechanic recommends changing every year, would be curious of others experience in this area. With price of plugs and scraped knuckles, would be nice to do this less often.
 
Question on TV in cabin, the one to the right of the galley. The TV is not original and is 120V.

1) Was the original TV 120V or 12V DC? The DVD above the TV seems to power at 12V DC, so it seems like there is a DC feed there.

2) There are a bunch of wires running to TV including two sets of audio (left/right) plugs, not sure where they are from and DVD player is loose. How do you get access to the wires behind the TV? If I remove screws from the top of the cabinet, does the top of the cabinet lift off? Not sure how else to access.

I would like to replace with 12V TV so kids can watch on the hook or simply connect small convetor. Thanks in advance for help.
 
Jeff - I just did my plugs as well and agree on gained respect for technicians that work on boats. I figure the job description is part he-man, surgeon and contortionist.

I am surprised at the life that you got out of the plugs, my mechanic recommends changing every year, would be curious of others experience in this area. With price of plugs and scraped knuckles, would be nice to do this less often.
Jason, To make your knuckles feel better know that my marina charges 225.00 per engine for labor and 16.00 each per sparkplug for a tune up. I was told every 3 years but I think the manual states 5 years.
 
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Question on TV in cabin, the one to the right of the galley. The TV is not original and is 120V.

1) Was the original TV 120V or 12V DC? The DVD above the TV seems to power at 12V DC, so it seems like there is a DC feed there.

2) There are a bunch of wires running to TV including two sets of audio (left/right) plugs, not sure where they are from and DVD player is loose. How do you get access to the wires behind the TV? If I remove screws from the top of the cabinet, does the top of the cabinet lift off? Not sure how else to access.

I would like to replace with 12V TV so kids can watch on the hook or simply connect small convetor. Thanks in advance for help.
I just went through all this trying to debug my broken DVD player. The audio wires were all wrapped up and taped into a ball behind the cabinet. I took out the DVD player but couldn't reach back and down to get at anything. I ended up drilling about 3" diameter hole in the center of the back of the cabinet to get at the wires and unravel them. They ended up being a run of a bunch of noise suppressers for the video and audio RCA feeds. The DVD feeds both the TV at the galley and the flip down TV in the mid-berth (if you have one). Here's the picture of what I found. Also, my TV is an aftermarket HDTV that is a 120V plug into a socket in the cabinet. The DVD is 12V fed.

Picture010.jpg
 
Jeff - I just did my plugs as well and agree on gained respect for technicians that work on boats. I figure the job description is part he-man, surgeon and contortionist.

I am surprised at the life that you got out of the plugs, my mechanic recommends changing every year, would be curious of others experience in this area. With price of plugs and scraped knuckles, would be nice to do this less often.
Here is an engine maintenance schedule I've put together over the past few months after reading and talking to mechanics. I am sure there are some here that could be done differently.


Activity
Frequency
Last Done
Next Due
Inspect drive belts; check tension
Every outing
n/a
n/a
Replace water separating filter
Annually
March/2012
Spring/2013
Change engine oil & filter
Annually
Nov/2011
Fall/2012
Replace IAC muffler/filter
Annually
Oct/2011
Fall/2012
Replace thermostats
When they fail
Original
n/a
Engine Tune-up:
- Replace spark plugs
- Replace spark plug wires
- Replace distributor cap and rotor
- Replace IAC valve/gasket
Every 3 years

June/2011
July /2011
May/2010
May/2010
Spring/2014
Replace in-line fuel filter
Every 3 years
March/2012
Spring/2013
Clean flame arrester & ventilation hoses
Every 3 years
?
Spring/2012
Replace PCV
When they fail
Original
n/a
Replace Impellers
Every 3 years
May/2010
Spring/2013
Re-torque the engine mounts
Every 3 years
?
Spring/2012
Replace all 4 batteries
Every 3 years
Aug/2009 (2)
Spring/2013
Inspect exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbows
Every 3 years
Fall/2011
Spring/2014
Replace exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbows
As needed
Original
As needed

Parts: 898253T29 Distributor Cap & Rotor Kit
33-8M2018369 Spark Plugs (AC 41-932) qty 8
84-863656A-1 Spark plug wire set
47-862232A 2 (kit) Impeller & gasket kit (spare)
807252Q 5 (kit) Thermostat (160 deg) (spare)
35-802893T Water separating filter
35-866340K01 Oil filter
35-864572 Inline fuel filter
8M2017060 PCV valve
862998/27-863112 IAC Valve/gasket (spare)
35-863829 IAC muffler/filter (spare)
865735A02 Exhaust manifold
864309T02 Exhaust elbow
864908A1 6” Riser pair
 
Here is an engine maintenance schedule I've put together over the past few months after reading and talking to mechanics. I am sure there are some here that could be done differently.

Activity
Frequency
Last Done
Next Due
Inspect drive belts; check tension
Every outing
n/a
n/a
Replace water separating filter
Annually
March/2012
Spring/2013
Change engine oil & filter
Annually
Nov/2011
Fall/2012
Replace IAC muffler/filter
Annually
Oct/2011
Fall/2012
Replace thermostats
When they fail
Original
n/a
Engine Tune-up:
- Replace spark plugs
- Replace spark plug wires
- Replace distributor cap and rotor
- Replace IAC valve/gasket
Every 3 years
June/2011
July /2011
May/2010
May/2010
Spring/2014
Replace in-line fuel filter
Every 3 years
March/2012
Spring/2013
Clean flame arrester & ventilation hoses
Every 3 years
?
Spring/2012
Replace PCV
When they fail
Original
n/a
Replace Impellers
Every 3 years
May/2010
Spring/2013
Re-torque the engine mounts
Every 3 years
?
Spring/2012
Replace all 4 batteries
Every 3 years
Aug/2009 (2)
Spring/2013
Inspect exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbows
Every 3 years
Fall/2011
Spring/2014
Replace exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbows
As needed
Original
As needed

Parts: 898253T29 Distributor Cap & Rotor Kit
33-8M2018369 Spark Plugs (AC 41-932) qty 8
84-863656A-1 Spark plug wire set
47-862232A 2 (kit) Impeller & gasket kit (spare)
807252Q 5 (kit) Thermostat (160 deg) (spare)
35-802893T Water separating filter
35-866340K01 Oil filter
35-864572 Inline fuel filter
8M2017060 PCV valve
862998/27-863112 IAC Valve/gasket (spare)
35-863829 IAC muffler/filter (spare)
865735A02 Exhaust manifold
864309T02 Exhaust elbow
864908A1 6” Riser pair
That's a very helpful list. Thanks, Brian
 
The spark plugs are platinum and the manual recommends replacement at 300 hours. I changed mine at 300 hours and the looked great. You may also be able to get the plugs at a Napa dealer cheaper. The plug number was the same and I paid around $10 per plug.
 
Jason, To make your knuckles feel better know that my marina charges 225.00 per engine for labor and 16.00 each per sparkplug for a tune up. I was told every 3 years but I think the manual states 5 years.

$450 in my pocket, I should go by myself something! :smt001 Thanks, that does actually make me feel better!
 
I just went through all this trying to debug my broken DVD player. The audio wires were all wrapped up and taped into a ball behind the cabinet. I took out the DVD player but couldn't reach back and down to get at anything. I ended up drilling about 3" diameter hole in the center of the back of the cabinet to get at the wires and unravel them. They ended up being a run of a bunch of noise suppressers for the video and audio RCA feeds. The DVD feeds both the TV at the galley and the flip down TV in the mid-berth (if you have one). Here's the picture of what I found. Also, my TV is an aftermarket HDTV that is a 120V plug into a socket in the cabinet. The DVD is 12V fed.

Thanks for reply.

Are the noise suppressers shown in the picture or are they mounted on the inside right cabinet wall? I saw two modules behind TV but nothing appears connected.

I am surprised that the DVD feeds both, I also have another DVD unit in the Starboard cabinet above the aft berth that I would have thought feed the flip down TV. The flip down TV was removed on my boat and just has wires hanging down. This TV was only for DVD, no antenna reception, correct?

When you replaced the galley TV with 120V, do you use converter or only use on shore power/gennie?
 
Here is an engine maintenance schedule I've put together over the past few months after reading and talking to mechanics. I am sure there are some here that could be done differently.

ActivityFrequencyLast DoneNext Due
Inspect drive belts; check tensionEvery outingn/an/a
Replace water separating filterAnnuallyMarch/2012Spring/2013
Change engine oil & filterAnnuallyNov/2011Fall/2012
Replace IAC muffler/filterAnnuallyOct/2011Fall/2012
Replace thermostatsWhen they failOriginaln/a
Engine Tune-up:
- Replace spark plugs
- Replace spark plug wires
- Replace distributor cap and rotor
- Replace IAC valve/gasket
Every 3 yearsJune/2011
July /2011
May/2010
May/2010
Spring/2014
Replace in-line fuel filterEvery 3 yearsMarch/2012Spring/2013
Clean flame arrester & ventilation hosesEvery 3 years?Spring/2012
Replace PCVWhen they failOriginaln/a
Replace ImpellersEvery 3 yearsMay/2010Spring/2013
Re-torque the engine mountsEvery 3 years?Spring/2012
Replace all 4 batteriesEvery 3 yearsAug/2009 (2)Spring/2013
Inspect exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbowsEvery 3 yearsFall/2011Spring/2014
Replace exhaust manifolds, risers (6”), elbowsAs neededOriginalAs needed

Nice list, thanks.
 
Thanks for reply.

Are the noise suppressers shown in the picture or are they mounted on the inside right cabinet wall? I saw two modules behind TV but nothing appears connected.

I am surprised that the DVD feeds both, I also have another DVD unit in the Starboard cabinet above the aft berth that I would have thought feed the flip down TV. The flip down TV was removed on my boat and just has wires hanging down. This TV was only for DVD, no antenna reception, correct?

When you replaced the galley TV with 120V, do you use converter or only use on shore power/gennie?
The wiring in the pic is only the two audio RCA runs. The cables come out of the DVD player and go into a suppressor, then onto a splitter (top right of the pic). One leg then goes to the audio RCA inputs of the galley TV and the other leg circles back into a second suppressor (that is taped to the first one) and then on to the mid-birth TV. The video lead has the same kinda run, with the two suppressors mounted on the inside right of the cabinet (probably the two boxes you are seeing). I verified it works by playing a DVD and watching it on both TV's simulatenously.

My setup has no converter. Its shore power/genny, or no TV in the galley. Its just plugged into the ac outlet that's mounted on the inside of the cabinet.

Yes, the mid-birth TV is only wired to DVD players (one in the starboard cabinet of the mid-birth and the one in the galley). No factory antenna hook-up there. How many RCA wires do you have hanging down (one set of three or 2 sets)?
 
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ZZ,
I read somewhere on here (maybe 280 forum or 320 forum) about that same AC bulb for the overhead, and that others have tried various replacements, but found that the original bulb's either thread depth or thread spacing was off from those on the replacements which were found. When I read that thread, I emailed the folks at supberbrightleds, but never heard back. I figured that I would call them this spring since i had such good luck that way in the past. Just havent gotten around to it yet.

I understood that the blue bayonettes may not fit in the attwood housing because of their height (base to tip of light) exceeding the space from the inside of the housing to the underside of the lense. Give them a shot though!

As a side note... the blue light doesn't scare away any bugs as potentially reported, nor did it seem to attract any more than the white. That said, I didn't get to use them much because we had such a crop of "Mayflies" or "midges" last season. I have already seen quite a few this spring as well. DAMN! More bugs, and more green midge-poop to wax off.

James
I finally pulled the bulb in the Attwood fixture and its the "90" dual contact bayonet. The plug measures .59 inches and is 1.25 inches tip to tail. Bulb 83634 in the dual contact configuration at LEDLIGHT looks like the exact replacement (my original BA9 recommendation was the wrong size). It says its for the "90". I'll buy three and report back.
 

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