300 Sundancer questions.

mdaniels said:
I sure did, by mistake actually.....I squeeze the bimmni top into there. One more question, I cant seem to get any TV reception, there is an anternna on the arch (pardon my ignorance but it is the large dome shaped one) and I found the TV gain switch underneath the cabinet however nothing, even when docked. Has anyone else had this issue? thx Matt
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If you you have a tube style tv or one of the early flat screens, you will likely need an analog to signal digital converter. I got one at radio shack and I get a fair amount of signal. I have it sitting in the cubby behind the flat screen. While on anchor I plug both that and the tv into 400w inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter in the cabinet behind the sink. Works temporariliy until I get to replace the tv with a new one. All the new tv's are automatically digital.

There's also a post here or on the 280 thread where someone found that the antenna from the arch had been disconnected and a closed loop wire antenna used instead. They found out while working in the cabinet under the sink. I'll look for the thread, but maybe you'll find it first.

James
 
JimFromMD said:
If you you have a tube style tv or one of the early flat screens, you will likely need an analog to signal digital converter. I got one at radio shack and I get a fair amount of signal. I have it sitting in the cubby behind the flat screen. While on anchor I plug both that and the tv into 400w inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter in the cabinet behind the sink. Works temporariliy until I get to replace the tv with a new one. All the new tv's are automatically digital.

There's also a post here or on the 280 thread where someone found that the antenna from the arch had been disconnected and a closed loop wire antenna used instead. They found out while working in the cabinet under the sink. I'll look for the thread, but maybe you'll find it first.

James
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Good memory James. Its post #665 of this thread. Matt, check it out. I found a coax junction box behind the vertical panel below the sink. It feed the Glomax antenna cable and the trunk antenna cable as an input into the box. The output went to the TV. See what you find there.
 
mdaniels said:
Thank you gents...will do
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I'm betting you just need the converter box to enable your TV for the post digital transition world of signals. Not sure how hard it is to get behind that cabinet, but it's probably harder than getting a box from best buy or radio shack and trying it out first. Can always return it if that's not the issue.


If you chose to upgrade the TV... Here are a few good threads...

Best option I've seen using most of the current setup.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...ving-old-TV?highlight=flat+screen+replacement.

Bel_Mar has his on a swing arm on his 300. Another clean looking option.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...stions.?p=487497&highlight=replace#post487497


Another on a 280.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40572-TV-conversion-2003-280-Sundancer


On the bulkhead by the cabin door...
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/23921-26-inch-LED-TV-install/page3
 
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Jim,

I went out and purchased a converter last night...will let you know how it goes. If thats the problem I will probably return the converter and buy a TV as the trade up is only minimal and it saves having all those wires everywhere. Thanks again/Matt
 
Jim....used the converter and that is exactly what the problem was. The converter is a little large to fit behind the TV in the vacant space, I might look at gettting a anew TV...have you replaced yours at all? I looked at the bracket and couldnt see how it comes off? thx
 
mdaniels said:
Jim....used the converter and that is exactly what the problem was. The converter is a little large to fit behind the TV in the vacant space, I might look at gettting a anew TV...have you replaced yours at all? I looked at the bracket and couldnt see how it comes off? thx
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Matt,
I thought that might be all you needed. The digital signal converter box I have from radio shack is pretty small and fits, so it may be worth returning yours and trying one of theirs until you decide on the TV replacement. I have not attempted mine yet, as there were a few things higher on the list I wanted to tackle first. The boat is hibernating for the winter, so it'll be March before I get to go play again! :( (Then again, there's always an option to have a door added into the current shrink wrap job if I get really motivated.)

Radio Shack box I have = http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3150939. I've not gone all out to retro fit it, it just lays under the media storage cubby section. There's an extra 110v plug back there too.

The link below looks like a similar setup and cubby hole size even though its in a different location. I also read a thread on here about someone finding a flatscreen that accepts both 12v and 110v power. I like staying on the hook and/or raft ups, so that may be an attractive option for me. I hate running the generator just to watch TV or a movie. Otherwise it looks like a generic 17-19" tv would do nicely there, although it may overhang the side edges of the cabinet some.

One other nice thing about having the digital box, is most times you can find a local channel that has the full time revolving weather/radar report on one of the secondary channels to the main broadcast one. I didn't feel adding XM/SIRRIUS weather was a worthwhile investment due to the cost of the service, but having access to the broadcast weather/radar has come in handy on several occasions.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...ving-old-TV?highlight=flat+screen+replacement

PS one other thing I have done both from the cabin tv and from my 17" laptop up in the cockpit is to hook my ipod FM transmitter (the kind that hooks into the earphone jack) into the TV/Laptop earphone jack to broadcast the tv/movie audio into the stereo for better sound. Not full home theater, but better than laptop/flascreen sound! Oh, and if you do that, pay attention to what you are watching/broadcasting... we had kids on the boat anchored behind us watching the cars movie over my nieces shoulder from their bow and listening on the radio too. FM Xmitter = http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2638387

-James
 
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Well team, I finished my first ever 300DA winterization today. Total cost was $1099 split between what I did and what I paid to get done. My part was $174 for the parts/pink to do the Kohler 5E generator (changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, impeller, spark plugs, zinc, flushed pink through it), flush pink through the water system (by-passed the H/W heater, and pumped directly from the pink jug - I did not pour pink into the 35gal tank), blow out the a/c line (did not use pink - just blew it out with shop-vac in blower mode) and change both engines' oil/filter. The dealer's part was $925 to fog, flush pink, change gear lube ($300 per engine/drive pair), haul out ($200), tow back to my slip at a different marina ($125). Also I had them service the outdrive while it was hauled (the usual annual stuff). And I took off all the bimini's and will clean/protect them as well as I can over the winter.

Next year I plan to do the engines myself. To much information overload to try it this year. I am going to experiment in the summer with slipping muffs on the drives while in the water (I have a wetsuit so I can hop in when the water is cool). I'd rather do that then pull hoses and such.

I also paid $62 for the big West Marine vacuum oil pump thing. It worked great but no matter how hard I tried I could only get a little over 4 quarts out of each engine (with punching a hole in the filter to drain it before taking it off). So I put 4 quarts back in and it did read full. My dealer tells me they pull out and put in almost 5 quarts when they do it on this engine. I may try it again in the spring after going on a cruise rather than just warming up the oil via idle in the slip. One other thing - the genny starts so much easier with the new stuff on it. And, I found I still suck badly at pivoting the boat to back it into the slip. I need a simulator to practice.
 
I finally figured out the way to pivot the stern into the slip. The trick, assuming you make your approach perpendicular to the slip, is to put the outside engine in reverse, then tighten the pivot as needed by adding forward thrust with the inside engine. When you're lined up, both in reverse briefly to ease into the slip. The nice thing about this method is that you make all the adjustments with a single lever, until you're set for straight back.. I read some thread here that mentioned this method, and I went over it again and again in my head until it made sense. And it worked, for me. Now I have to figure out the right thing with diesels, and inboards...
 
Has anyone had issues with their cockpit refrigerator. Mine only works on generator and power hook up but not off the DC (batteries)?
 
mdaniels said:
Has anyone had issues with their cockpit refrigerator. Mine only works on generator and power hook up but not off the DC (batteries)?
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I can't remember if if my problem was the same as yours or just the opposite ( i.e working only on DC) but it turned out the GFI breaker on the aft cabin outlet was tripped. Pushed the little red button and everything worked fine. Try that first. I remember reading about that more than once here. There is also a outlet in the storage compartment in the head with a GFI that messes things up when tripped.
 
ZZ13: Hi! Congrats on the new boat. I'm a new 300 owner as well, my first boat. I've had it two weeks. Unfortunately, NO MANUALS! Any interest in selling your spares?

Jason
2005 300 DA
 
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I just thought I would give some feedback on the cockpit refrigerator in case someone else has the same issue. The reason it was blowing a fuse and only working on A/C is because when they installed it they wired it backwards (reverse polarity)! It now works A/C DC....
 
I am swimming in canvas and cushions. Turns out the boat came with full cockpit canvas cover, full camper canvas/isenglas, and the slantback camper piece. Also came with the sunpad. And then there is the folding cushion for the aft cockpit lounge. Most of the time the back part of the camper canvas/glass will either be installed or off the boat, so I have eliminated that, I guess. When using the boat, I would like to find a place for the cockpit lounge cushion, the slantback canvas, the five front isenglas pieces, and the cockpit canvas cover. Any of you come up with some creating storage methods to get as much of this on the boat without getting in the way? Can I tightly fold/roll up the slant back piece and the cockpit canvas and fit them both in the secret compartment?
 
I almost never use the slantback cover so it's at the house. When the weather is good my top is set up just like your sig pic. I use the cockpit cover for stroage as it keeps the cockpit clean and blocks the light out. The glass is kept in the aft cabin that way it stays like new. All the canvas for the aft camper is stored in the seat behind the helm.
 
So, we had a freak occurrence on the boat yesterday. Kids were playing on the bow at anchor, and a boat zoomed by creating a huge wake. One of the kids lost his footing and fell onto the open vent window, causing it to shatter in a million pieces, sending pieces of glass flying all over the bow and cockpit. Took us an hour to pick up the pieces, and everyone ended up with pieces of glass in their feet and knees. Has anyone had to replace this vent before? Any idea of the cost involved? What about utilizing some kind of tempered or coated glass to prevent this from happening again? Any thoughts?

Second question: a friend has a 280 and when he keeps the boat at the slip, he overs the help with a cover that snaps around all the essential electronics and steering wheels. I'd like to do something similar to fend off the sun and rain here in Miami, but don;t see snaps around the helm to do so. I don;t want to have to utilize the whole cockpit cover everytime I get off the boat. Has anyone found a way to address this issue?

Last question: I am planning on doing the TV upgrade as posted many times on these forums. Am I correct in assuming that I need to use a 12V TV if I want to have the capability of my kids watching a DVD while underway or at anchor without firing up the generator? I was just going to buy a regular TV from Best Buy, but I think I might need a 12V for full functionality.

Thanks in advance for your advice,
Jason


2005 300 DA
 
I have had my hatch out before to reseal. Not a big deal. They are however are not cheep @ $400 I think.
The 12 v tv is the best option if you dont want to run the gen, but you are in Miami for pete sake when is the ac not on. You may find its just best to run the gen and have the 120v tv. My gen runs most of the time from when I leave the dock till I get back. You will have far less problems with it if you use it more than not.
 
I try to avoid using the generator too much. It burns a ton of fuel and ends up creating a huge mismatch in the two tanks. Especially now in the winter, I find I don't need it too much.

Jason
 
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