260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

I believe that panel works independently from the battery switch if I remember correctly. So if you turn off the batteries you are still supplying juice to the radio for it's preselect memory, etc. Only way to completely turn off 12 volt power is to physically disconnect the batteries. Dave
 
Storage in the Engine Room

I am looking to leverage some of the space in the engine room for tool storage. As I have a generator directly under the middle of the cockpit the only real space I have is behind the black tank SB side of the engine. I'm looking for ideas on how to store a bin there. I'm also curious as to how hot it gets in the engine room. Thoughts?
 
Re: Storage in the Engine Room

It gets hot but the bilge blower or moving the boat, it does get fresh air. I have stored items down there. I basically strapped a milk crate to the floor and then bought some web netting to over the crate (I was concerned of things getting bounced around and going into the sepentine belt). I stored oil / boat wash / wax / head cleaner / etc without issue. If you want to PM your cell phone number, I will text over some photos from my phone.

Dave
 
It's a bit tough to see, but the best pic I have of my "boxed" storage in the 260. It is placed next to the gas tank and I had a few 90 degree brackets screwed in to keep things from shifting around and then I added the bungee for additional holding. It worked well for 3 years and I never had an issue with the box moving or anything coming out.

DSC_0415.JPG
 
Sous said:
It's a bit tough to see, but the best pic I have of my "boxed" storage in the 260. It is placed next to the gas tank and I had a few 90 degree brackets screwed in to keep things from shifting around and then I added the bungee for additional holding. It worked well for 3 years and I never had an issue with the box moving or anything coming out.

DSC_0415.JPG
Click to expand...

You must have had quite a bit of space between your holding tank and transom. My batteries are mounted on the starboard side and where your batteries were, I have a milk crate there. I am also goint to look at the area you indicate between the gen and fresh water tank. Thanks for the idea.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
You must have had quite a bit of space between your holding tank and transom. My batteries are mounted on the starboard side and where your batteries were, I have a milk crate there. I am also goint to look at the area you indicate between the gen and fresh water tank. Thanks for the idea.

Bennett
Click to expand...

There was quite a bit of space. I could have easily mounted another box of some sort there. I didn't simply because I didn't have a need, and since that is on the hinge side of the hatch getting in and out was more cumbersome. The space in the 260 bilge versus the 330 with inboards is incredible. Granted there is more storage in the cabin and under the seats in the cockpit, but we had to downsize the amount of stuff we took on the boat when we moved up.
 
Re: Storage in the Engine Room

estoltz said:
I am looking to leverage some of the space in the engine room for tool storage. As I have a generator directly under the middle of the cockpit the only real space I have is behind the black tank SB side of the engine. I'm looking for ideas on how to store a bin there. I'm also curious as to how hot it gets in the engine room. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I recently posted a few pictures of a storage solution I came up with in the 240 SDA thread. I don't know how similar your available space is to mine, but I've been very happy with what I came up with.

If you take a look at the 240 thread, my pictures will be at the end.
 
Good Morning All, I'm a new user here but I've been boating on the Chesapeake for 12 seasons. I currently have a 2007 Regal 2565 pocket cruiser and for out-drive reliability reasons I need to move to a new boat. I have found an exceptionally clean 2007 260DA that I've fallen hard for.

Does any member here have Chesapeake bay or other coastal area experience with this model? would you share your opinions on ride through chop or other boat handling issues good or bad. I'm aware of the listing issue as you come on plane and the remedy. My Regal's hull has 18 degrees of deadrise and the 2007 260DA seems to have 21 so I'm assuming she'd be slightly smoother through chop. Any tips for a new to Sea Ray boater would be appreciated. Ive learned much so far just by reading this thread.

Thanks for your time!
 
Tonygoodhands said:
Good Morning All, I'm a new user here but I've been boating on the Chesapeake for 12 seasons. I currently have a 2007 Regal 2565 pocket cruiser and for out-drive reliability reasons I need to move to a new boat. I have found an exceptionally clean 2007 260DA that I've fallen hard for.

Does any member here have Chesapeake bay or other coastal area experience with this model? would you share your opinions on ride through chop or other boat handling issues good or bad. I'm aware of the listing issue as you come on plane and the remedy. My Regal's hull has 18 degrees of deadrise and the 2007 260DA seems to have 21 so I'm assuming she'd be slightly smoother through chop. Any tips for a new to Sea Ray boater would be appreciated. Ive learned much so far just by reading this thread.

Thanks for your time!
Click to expand...

The best thing you can do is to start at the beginning of this thread where it starts in 2006 and read through it. Dave S. gives insight into everything to do with a 260DA.

Bennett
 
Tonygoodhands said:
Good Morning All, I'm a new user here but I've been boating on the Chesapeake for 12 seasons. I currently have a 2007 Regal 2565 pocket cruiser and for out-drive reliability reasons I need to move to a new boat. I have found an exceptionally clean 2007 260DA that I've fallen hard for.

Does any member here have Chesapeake bay or other coastal area experience with this model? would you share your opinions on ride through chop or other boat handling issues good or bad. I'm aware of the listing issue as you come on plane and the remedy. My Regal's hull has 18 degrees of deadrise and the 2007 260DA seems to have 21 so I'm assuming she'd be slightly smoother through chop. Any tips for a new to Sea Ray boater would be appreciated. Ive learned much so far just by reading this thread.

Thanks for your time!
Click to expand...

I had an '05 260 and ran mostly between Balmer to Solomans for the better part of 3 years. The 260 handled just fine. Obviously, being a smaller, lighter cruiser you have to use common sense, but the typical 1.5-2.5 that would be a "heavy" day in the mid-Chesapeake she was just fine. Pushing 3+ footers, I wouldn't go out for fun, but if I had to make it home from a trip she'd be fine just ridding the throttle to take the chop as smoothly as I could.
 
New question

Hello,

Does anyone have advice on new batteries? My boat has the 350 and there are dual batteries that I've been advised to replace. Looks like you can spend an incredible amount on them, I just don't want to waste money making the wrong choice.

Appreciate anyone's help! Thank you!
 
So my 260 friends I need some advise, my 260 does not have a generator so I am looking into either the Honda 1000 or 2000. Primarily I want to run the AC any thoughts?
 
I considered going this route but decided it would be much less hassle and probably safer to go with a generator on board. The process of installing is quite costly from what I hear (I was told in the 10-12k range including generator). You run the risk of CO poisoning. Please note this is a very touchy subject. If I didn't have a generator I would probably go with the portable because I like my AC but if you search the forums there was a very lively debate. Hopefully it doesn't infect this thread.
 
You only have 7 posts, so I'll go thru this again:

Portable generators used as you envision are a very bad idea. Here are the reasons (from an earlier post I made on a similar thread):

Carbon Monoxide
Is simple to grasp, breath it in a confined space and you don’t wake up. Permanently mounted marine generators have their exhausts plumbed to exit at or very near the waterline and away from closed occupied spaces.


Uncontained Fuel System Vents
The fuel systems on Honda and other portable generators are vented to the atmosphere and their carburetors have a bowl drain that releases fuel inside the generator case. That means where you run it, store it or put it under way will have gasoline fumes released in the area and if the bowl drain leaks, you have raw fuel spilled and an explosive liquid in the compartment with the generator.


Lack of ignition protection on electrical devices
The electrical components on portables are not ignition protected like marine generator electrical components are. This means you could easily have an arc or spark anytime contact opens or closes or whenever something is plugged in ot disconnected.


Lack of Continuous Grounding
Portable generators pose an additional shock hazard since the portable is not grounded to the boat or to a shore side ground. Likely not a problem with a drill or power tool, but if you connect it to your boat's AC system, you have essentially disconnected the green wire. Most small generators like the Honda and Yamaha are investor driven. An inverter drives both line and neutral so it is possible to have potential between neutral and ground. With ground bonded to the boat's bonding system, which mean to the water, this implies a shock hazard may exist that normally should not.




The USCG governs only boat manufacturers and the manufacturers voluntarily subscribe to ABYC guidelines, so there is no "law" against using portable generators on boats. However, both the USCG and ABYC say using portable generators on boat is a bad idea and regularly caution boaters against it. While accidents may be rare, you do substantially increase your risk of becoming a "statistic" when using a portable generator on a boat.......you put your family at unnecessary risk when you do so please don't.
__________________
 
saltydog260da said:
Thank you Webster, great points I think I will pursue adding a couple batteries and installing an inverter.
Click to expand...

you will not be able to run an AC unit for very long from batteries and an inverter.....this has been discussed many times on CSR....the amp draw from the AC is just to high....it will quickly deplete the charge in a large marine deep cycle battery.....you could overcome this by adding enough batteries but i doubt there is enough room on your boat to add enough batteries to run the AC for any length of time....then you have the weight of the batteries to be concerned with and charging them not to mention the cost....

trust me i went through the same thought process when i had my 215EC that did not have AC and spent a considerable amount of time on the idea and finally had to face the reality it is just not feasible to do with batteries...this is one reason for us moving up to the 340....

however it is feasible to install an AC unit and run it off of 110VAC shore power at a dock.....

cliff
 
Last edited:
fwebster said:
You only have 7 posts, so I'll go thru this again:

Portable generators used as you envision are a very bad idea. Here are the reasons (from an earlier post I made on a similar thread):

Carbon Monoxide
Is simple to grasp, breath it in a confined space and you don’t wake up. Permanently mounted marine generators have their exhausts plumbed to exit at or very near the waterline and away from closed occupied spaces.
WHICH IS THE WORST POSSIBLE PLACE TO HAVE. THE HIGHER UP THE BETTER


Uncontained Fuel System Vents
The fuel systems on Honda and other portable generators are vented to the atmosphere and their carburetors have a bowl drain that releases fuel inside the generator case. That means where you run it, store it or put it under way will have gasoline fumes released in the area and if the bowl drain leaks, you have raw fuel spilled and an explosive liquid in the compartment with the generator.
NOR DO THEY HAVE TO BE IF THEY ARE NOT MOUNTED IN A CONFINED SPACE.


Lack of ignition protection on electrical devices
The electrical components on portables are not ignition protected like marine generator electrical components are. This means you could easily have an arc or spark anytime contact opens or closes or whenever something is plugged in ot disconnected.
AGAIN THIS DOES NOT APPLY IF THEY ARE NOT IN A CONFINED SPACE. ARE THEY ANY WORSE THAN A BBQ ON THE SWIM PLATFORM?


Lack of Continuous Grounding
Portable generators pose an additional shock hazard since the portable is not grounded to the boat or to a shore side ground. Likely not a problem with a drill or power tool, but if you connect it to your boat's AC system, you have essentially disconnected the green wire. Most small generators like the Honda and Yamaha are investor driven. An inverter drives both line and neutral so it is possible to have potential between neutral and ground. With ground bonded to the boat's bonding system, which mean to the water, this implies a shock hazard may exist that normally should not.




The USCG governs only boat manufacturers and the manufacturers voluntarily subscribe to ABYC guidelines, so there is no "law" against using portable generators on boats. However, both the USCG and ABYC say using portable generators on boat is a bad idea and regularly caution boaters against it. While accidents may be rare, you do substantially increase your risk of becoming a "statistic" when using a portable generator on a boat.......you put your family at unnecessary risk when you do so please don't.
__________________
Click to expand...

So much misleading information here.
 
And it begins...
 
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