260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

[Zorba]

I previously had a 97 250 which sat lower to the water. The boat wasn't that fast with a 250hp Merc but I never had the issues I'm having driving my new 07 260.

The 260 is 1-2 ft longer in size and also has a generator but has a 300hp. Obviously with the generator and ppl on board, she's slow to the gates when getting on plane which I'm ok with, but I seem to have to play with the trim tabs alot more than I did on the 97 and also when driving, the handling was alot better on the 97.

I'm thinking btwn the larger boat and how it sits higher on the water that I might have some of these issues but it's as if turning isn't easy while cruising. If i turn the wheel to turn the boat more, the boat is on more of an angle than I would expect and have experienced in the past. The tossing of the left to right in choppy water seems alot more with this one also. I've been cruising ~3800 RPMs at around 21knots. If i push it more, it seems even worse. I want to be able to cruise and enjoy myself rather be stressing out about why the boats handeling so poorly.

Not sure if i just need to get used to driving the boat and how it handles being it's the largest size you really would ever get with a single screw or there could be something else. I'm hoping to hear that others have the same experiences and feelings and just takes some getting used to driving.

Any feed back of experiences or anyone that might have a clue about what I'm saying (if above makes any sense at all), would appreciate it

Ah the dreaded 260 "Lean". Trust me we all know what you are talking about. Unfortunately this is a fact of life you will have to get used to. You have plenty of engine for the boat it is just a matter of figuring out how to trim the engine properly and use minimal tabs. I don't have time t ofind it right this second but I am sure Dave S will post the link to his excellent write up on how to eliminate your issues

 

[Dave S]

SCUMA.................here is the thread you want read thoroughly on the correct way to operate your 260DA. You will see all the same complaints and concerns you are having. Follow the guidlines I posted there and you will find your boat a lot more pleasant to operate. Also, if you are having trouble coming up on plane there is a simple change you can make with your hydraulic trim rams that makes a big difference. It involves moving what they call the "celery stick" spacer that is in the mounting holes for the rams. http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21656&highlight=celery

Dave

 

[Scuma]

Thanks guys...I'll try to pretend I'm working while reading this in the office today, otherwise, it'll have to wait till after hours. Appreciate the feedback though and glad to hear that I'm not the only one! I was joking around that I might have to go on a refresher course because I have no idea how to drive a boat apparently! :smt101

Look fwd to the read. Thanks!

 

[Scott1]

For those of you that are installing new flatscreen tvs in your older 260DA's........where and how?

bump

 

[Nehalennia]

bump

Scott. I have thought about it, but it's still lower on the priority list. First will be new cockpit carpet.

 

[Scott1]

Scott. I have thought about it, but it's still lower on the priority list. First will be new cockpit carpet.

There are a couple places I have considered. One is the mirror in the front of the boat, and the other is on the front of the storage door that is between the V-berth and the head locker. I actually really like the idea to secure it to the door b/c I could thru bolt it to the back side of the door....just not sure if the hinges and lock mechanism are up to the task. A third Idea is a standard double hinge mount just to the side of the sink...in that area. :huh:

 

[seam108]

So the new boat arrives tomorrow and last minute will be running up to west marine to get the bravo III anode kit (which is hopefully in stock). can I do this myself? my older Alpha One the prop had to come off and I wasn't about to try that. the Bravo III looks like it's just a propeller nut and was wondering if this could even be done in the water?

I also noted in another forum that the battery switch must stay in the ON position for the Mercathode protection system to work...I'm assuming this is okay when plugged into ShorePower? What is the real reason why folks switch the battery to off anyway? seems like a lot of my stuff worked in the old boat when the switch was off. I've heard for safety reasons too?

Anyway, I'm a little worried about the corrosion and want to take as many steps to protect the outdrive as I can, but of course I don't want to put it in service the first day I get it either!

 

[Dave S]

So the new boat arrives tomorrow and last minute will be running up to west marine to get the bravo III anode kit (which is hopefully in stock). can I do this myself? my older Alpha One the prop had to come off and I wasn't about to try that. the Bravo III looks like it's just a propeller nut and was wondering if this could even be done in the water?

I also noted in another forum that the battery switch must stay in the ON position for the Mercathode protection system to work...I'm assuming this is okay when plugged into ShorePower? What is the real reason why folks switch the battery to off anyway? seems like a lot of my stuff worked in the old boat when the switch was off. I've heard for safety reasons too?

Anyway, I'm a little worried about the corrosion and want to take as many steps to protect the outdrive as I can, but of course I don't want to put it in service the first day I get it either!

I doubt West Marine will have what you want. That install also involves drilling holes in your transom. Are you sure you want to do that on your own? You also need to purchase the heavy duty Mercathode controller which is red. Then the whole thing needs to be checked out in the water to be sure it works properly. My advice is to let the LWM service guys do the work. To remove your prop you also need a special wrench like this.

You can purchase one here http://www.properthing.com/models.html

And turn OFF the battery switch. The Mercathode will work fine as long as all the DC switch for it under the sink in the cockpit is on. As a matter of fact make sure all the individual switches are on in that panel and leave them on because things like the bilge pump are on those circuits as well.

If you want I can meet you at the Marina to help you go over a whole bunch of things about the boat including operating it (especially on the weekend with all the waves from other boaters).:smt101 Just shoot me a PM with your phone number and I'll get back to you.

Dave

 

[seam108]

Thanks Dave! wouldn't the anode (zincs) be pretty easy to do without having to drill holes? like the "martyr" ones you see in the package that corrode and you replace every year or other year. The boat came with the aluminum zincs, and I just need to buy the magnesium for freshwater....hearing that sea ray always installs aluminum on every boat they do.

I'll have to get LWM to do the mercathode controller, what does that do and I thought it came with a mercathode system...or maybe just not the controller?


Thanks for all the help, and it should be here this afternoon sometime...

 

[Dave S]

Thanks Dave! wouldn't the anode (zincs) be pretty easy to do without having to drill holes? like the "martyr" ones you see in the package that corrode and you replace every year or other year. The boat came with the aluminum zincs, and I just need to buy the magnesium for freshwater....hearing that sea ray always installs aluminum on every boat they do.

I'll have to get LWM to do the mercathode controller, what does that do and I thought it came with a mercathode system...or maybe just not the controller?


Thanks for all the help, and it should be here this afternoon sometime...

Yes.........the regular anodes are easy to change out with regular socket wrenches and West Marine may have the kit or for sure LWM has them. And Magnesium is the correct material to use. The part number for the anode kit you need is 888760Q02. I would do the change out soon but keep in mind that they can fork lift your boat anytime and put it on a wash rack if you don't get the work done now. The other anodes and controller I spoke about are what you need for extra protection in our lake. I can talk to you about that later.

Dave

 

[Italien 1]

Extented swim platform?
Has anyone seen an added swim platform on a 2005 - 2008 26 Sundancer? We are thinking about getting one done but would appreciate any comments or pics on the subject prior to taking the final decision ~

 

[Dave S]

Italien 1...........Look at this picture of a 270 Amberjack.

That boat is essentially the same as our 260DA's except it has a different upper deck. However it has an extended swim platform attached to the back of it. In fact if you were going to add something like this, maybe you can get one from Sea Ray directly. In either case, I would first call Sea Ray and ask whether the 270 AJ has extra material in the existing transom area. I would be concerned about hanging a lot of extra weight on the current overhanging platform at the rear of our boats but if they can do it on the Amberjack, maybe it would be no problem to do it on a 260 DA.

Dave

 

[Italien 1]

Dave,

We already spoke to our Sea Ray dealer ~ he told us that we could have it done; they don’t do the work themselves but has a trustworthy company to refer us.

He also mentioned that since we would put the dinghy and motor on the extended part of the platform it would have an effect on the performance of the boat; take longer to go up on plane and then have to run higher RPM’s to reach and keep our normal cruising speed, therefore more costly on gas… It all makes sense! We were wondering if anyone out there had that set up to hear the “real life stories” with it.

Thanks Dave for taking the time to help us ~
Claudio & Anne

 

[GrimmSpeed]

Hey guys, we are needing to get our bottom painted. My question, do you guys follow the water line the whole way with the paint or do you follow the vinyl stripe that is on the boat? I'm leaning towards following the stripe...yes you can see more of the bottom paint up front but I think it looks more natural.

Justin

 

[Lazy Daze]

Hey guys, we are needing to get our bottom painted. My question, do you guys follow the water line the whole way with the paint or do you follow the vinyl stripe that is on the boat? I'm leaning towards following the stripe...yes you can see more of the bottom paint up front but I think it looks more natural.

Justin

It'll only look more natural when it's on a trailer. When it's in the water, it'll look really bad. Follow the water line.

 

[medic3538]

Hey guys, we are needing to get our bottom painted. My question, do you guys follow the water line the whole way with the paint or do you follow the vinyl stripe that is on the boat? I'm leaning towards following the stripe...yes you can see more of the bottom paint up front but I think it looks more natural.

Justin

Here is my boat with bottom paint, which I am redoing next week.

 

[medic3538]

The paint is just lower than the pinstripe and then extends lower towards the bow, which of course is following the waterline. Looks perfect in the water and when on plane you can see the paint, but no big deal.

 

[medic3538]

Here is a shot of her on plane. Also, my proud day I turned 400 hours.

 

[GrimmSpeed]

Great, thank you for the info guys. I'll have it matched to the water line then since I dont care what it looks like on the trailer. wow, 400 hours, that is awesome medic!

Justin

 

[Dave S]

Medic's paint line looks better than the way it comes from the factory in the bow area. Right now the bow portion on mine is lower than what shows on Medic's boat. When mine sits in the water a whole lot more of the bottom paint shows on the sides than shows on the bow and that has always bugged me.

BTW........mine is just shy of 400 hours too. In another month or so it should go over that.:grin:

Dave