260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

eshasek said:
I found that picture on http://www.atlantictowers.com/ just to give credit where credit is due. My 260 DA just has a Bimini right now.
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I don't care for the look, but may look good with a little smaller - what are you trying to accomplish with the hard top? Is it something you could accomplish with Canvas modifications? Are you looking at something for electronics, such as radar?
 
My main goal is to get better shade coverage for the upcoming Florida summer. The Bimini does not cut it if the sun is not right over head. I really need to extend the Bimini back to the stern as I just have the standard Bimini.

I guess it would be a lot more practical to get an extension to the standard Bimini.

I have to agree the hard tome is a silly look, just looked interesting and was a surprise to actually see it on what looks like a 260 DA.
 
eshasek said:
My main goal is to get better shade coverage for the upcoming Florida summer. The Bimini does not cut it if the sun is not right over head. I really need to extend the Bimini back to the stern as I just have the standard Bimini.

I guess it would be a lot more practical to get an extension to the standard Bimini.

I have to agree the hard tome is a silly look, just looked interesting and was a surprise to actually see it on what looks like a 260 DA.
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My 260 had full canvas and it was nice. The aft section provided significant shade. I would look into that. I miss the full canvas on my 320. You might try contacting Great Lakes and see if you can order the full canvas from them.
 
skolbe said:
My 260 had full canvas and it was nice. The aft section provided significant shade. I would look into that. I miss the full canvas on my 320. You might try contacting Great Lakes and see if you can order the full canvas from them.
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Great Lakes??
 
eshasek said:
I found that picture on http://www.atlantictowers.com/ just to give credit where credit is due. My 260 DA just has a Bimini right now.
Click to expand...

I don't really like that look either. It looks to boxy to me. I've thought about having an arch made from Sampson.
reverse_arch.jpg

Then have my canvas guy put some brows fore and aft of it then complete the camper canvas from it. That way it doesn't look so commercial when the camper canvas is down. The camper looks like a station wagon regardless what size boat there on, but it's nice to have the space inside.
 
Nehalennia said:
...I've thought about having an arch made from Sampson...
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I really like that Sampson with brows idea. Would love to see a picture of one on a 260 DA to get a feel for how big it would be and what it would do to my trailering height.
 
has anyone priced the factory arch, for the 260??? my friend has a 05 260 da thats loaded , it has the camper top but no arch, i have only seen a few 04/newer without the arch,i cant figure why this wasnt standard equipment ???
 
My '04 has the arch and I wouldn't have bought it without. It's the look! I can't believe that an '05 didn't come with the arch!! Every '05 has the arch. It's part of the style or whatever.
 
The carpet around the head became very wet last week after the detailers finished their washing and waxing.

As I opened the small hatch to expose the shower sump pump and forward bilge pump, I noticed quite a bit of water in that area (About 3" - 4" in the sump, not in the box)

The forward pump was not on, but did work as I manually turned the knob on the float switch. Only the rear pump (engine room) comes on if I activate the helm bilge pump switch.

Is this normal? Or should the forward pump have gone on before the carpet became wet? If so, what should I look to diagnose?
 
Scotto97 said:
The carpet around the head became very wet last week after the detailers finished their washing and waxing.

As I opened the small hatch to expose the shower sump pump and forward bilge pump, I noticed quite a bit of water in that area (About 3" - 4" in the sump, not in the box)

The forward pump was not on, but did work as I manually turned the knob on the float switch. Only the rear pump (engine room) comes on if I activate the helm bilge pump switch.

Is this normal? Or should the forward pump have gone on before the carpet became wet? If so, what should I look to diagnose?
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Your Sump Box pobably overflowed and since your carpet runs under that step it wicked some water. Bad design on Sea Ray's part. I had this happen to me last year.

Odds are your float in the sump box is gunked up and only works half the time. I would clean your sump box and then run some dish soap thru it to give it a good cleaning and lubricate you float and pump. Your going to probably be discusted with the stuff that has built up in there.


The forward pump will not come on when you use the helm switch
 
There's two pumps in that area right? One that's in the sump box and the other outside and to the aft I call the forward bildge pump.

My understanding is the sump box would only get wet if someone used the shower on our model. The galley sink doesn't empty into it correct?
 
The bilge pump inside the enclosed box with the clear cover handles the water from your shower floor drain. The sink empties overboard. In addition, the condensate line from your A/C also empties into it when it is running in the summertime. The pump outside the box is an emergency sump and never operates unless your cabin were to flood with water for some reason.

The problem many folks have with that sump inside the box is it is prone to malfunction because of the "gunk" from the shower water (hair and soap primarily) and when the pump doesn't work the water will overflow the box and will eventually soak the carpeting in the cabin. The other "emergency" pump will not operate unless there is an inch or two of water in the cabin.

Dave
 
Scotto97 said:
The carpet around the head became very wet last week after the detailers finished their washing and waxing.

As I opened the small hatch to expose the shower sump pump and forward bilge pump, I noticed quite a bit of water in that area (About 3" - 4" in the sump, not in the box).
Click to expand...

I had the exact same problem after each power wash was done by our local boat washer (Yacht Docs :thumbsup:). Every time they power washed the portlights I would have a water soaked carpet in front of the head area below the door.

So, as a test, I had them not power wash the portlight areas at all when they washed - problem solved. As I thought, the high pressure water stream was blowing past the portlight gaskets no matter how tight I tightened the portlight tension adjusters.

If you look under the portlights in the cabin you will see drainage gutters that lead straight down the side of the hull. It must lead under the cabin floor and wick water up into the carpet. I'll bet if you pour a cup of water down that gutter it will show up as a wet carpet.

This had happened so much before if figured out what it was that it warped the carpet/wood under the head door about an inch. Bad design...:smt021
 
And then of course (sure it's not the problem) your fresh water tank could have sprung a leak.....Just kidding!!
 
I think the portlight above my microwave is leaking. I see a faint hint of rust on the headliner around the frame at about the 2 o'clock postion.

Has anyone removed these portlights? It looks like removing the screws from the inside will release the outside trim ring. Barring a lot of 5200 in there, the whole thing should come right out, correct?

The SR 260 parts manual shows 2 gaskets for the portlight:
1331735 PORTLIGHT, GASKET ONLY (BOMAR)
1314459 PORTLIGHT, GASKET SATURATED FOAM

I think the sat. foam one is the outside trim ring gasket abd the other is the actual lens gasket. Has anyone on here ever replaced the lens gasket?
 
dsteele1 said:
I had the exact same problem after each power wash was done by our local boat washer (Yacht Docs :thumbsup:). Every time they power washed the portlights I would have a water soaked carpet in front of the head area below the door.

So, as a test, I had them not power wash the portlight areas at all when they washed - problem solved. As I thought, the high pressure water stream was blowing past the portlight gaskets no matter how tight I tightened the portlight tension adjusters.

If you look under the portlights in the cabin you will see drainage gutters that lead straight down the side of the hull. It must lead under the cabin floor and wick water up into the carpet. I'll bet if you pour a cup of water down that gutter it will show up as a wet carpet.

This had happened so much before if figured out what it was that it warped the carpet/wood under the head door about an inch. Bad design...:smt021
Click to expand...

Thanks dsteele1 - fantastic insight and goes right to the situation experienced. I really appreciate everyone's response and help in understanding our model's little pleasures. This board is awesome.
 
Scotto97 said:
Thanks dsteele1 - fantastic insight and goes right to the situation experienced. I really appreciate everyone's response and help in understanding our model's little pleasures. This board is awesome.
Click to expand...

Glad I could help :grin:
 
skibum said:
I think the portlight above my microwave is leaking. I see a faint hint of rust on the headliner around the frame at about the 2 o'clock postion.

Has anyone removed these portlights? It looks like removing the screws from the inside will release the outside trim ring. Barring a lot of 5200 in there, the whole thing should come right out, correct?

The SR 260 parts manual shows 2 gaskets for the portlight:
1331735 PORTLIGHT, GASKET ONLY (BOMAR)
1314459 PORTLIGHT, GASKET SATURATED FOAM

I think the sat. foam one is the outside trim ring gasket abd the other is the actual lens gasket. Has anyone on here ever replaced the lens gasket?
Click to expand...

Does yours have (4) screws on the outside? If it does, I may still have some pics I can share from when I did mine last year. If not, you have the newer Bomar portlight - and I've never had one of those apart.
 
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