260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Dave S said:
Wes

Here is where I put my convertor

DSC05735.jpg


And here is the posting I started on the subject with more pictures and how to's:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10888
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. That is a nice neat project. The price is certainly right. I may wind up going that route. I may also add a TV line up to the cockpit and mount a small TV up there as well.

Thanks again!:thumbsup:
 
Re: 260 Sundancer Thread...... Throttle dissassembly

I posted this on the Maintenance thread but know one seems to know how to do this. I have a throttle that is very hard to shift into forward or reverse compared to another exact same year 260. I've had all the cables replaced and it's still hard to shift. I've read the manual and there seems to be some adjustment screws inside the helm remote control throttle / shift assembly that can fix this.

Anyone on this thread done this before? :huh:

http://www.clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16516
 
Last edited:
ChuckW said:
I have not, but have you checked out this article?

http://www.sterndrives.com/supplies/mdtips02.html

Talks about replacing the cable and adjusting it. Looks like you can find the details you need in there.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the article but the adjustment screws and problem (I believe) are in the helm throttle / shift assembly (see the original thread pic).
 
Have you tried removing the small compartmentjust below and to the left of the throttle control? You may be able to reach up and feel how it is mounted on the back side. You will have to reseal the small compartment once you pull it out. I had to pull mine out when I ran my transom remote and I believe there was enough room get your hand in there and get some idea how it comes out.
 
We just purchased a 2006 260 sundancer on a trade of a 20 ft jet boat. Before buying it I did some research and nothing but rave reviews on the boat. We just ran into several articles saying it was poorly designed, being top heavy and rolls alot in the water. Any truth behind this or is it just B.S. Either way we are looking forward to dropping her in the water soon. Thanks
Dino
 
Hey guy,

Great choice... The 260 is a great boat! Just this past week my wife and I (after much discussion) decided to move up to a used 2005 300 Sundancer. In fact just today we sold our 2004 260 Dancer... and it was very painful for us. We loved the layout of the 260, we had the 350 MAG with AIR and Heat and she performed great and never gave us any problems. Like I said, it was a hard choice but we felt we needed just a little more room and we got a great deal on the 300! The guy that said you should buy some foam for the aft bed section within the 260 (we called it the BAT CAVE), is correct do yourself the favor for sure.

Have fun and good luck, we are looking forward to the delivery of the 300, but we for sure have a tear in our eye for the 260....she was great fun!!!
 
Jimg5512 said:
Hey guy,

Great choice... The 260 is a great boat! Just this past week my wife and I (after much discussion) decided to move up to a used 2005 300 Sundancer. In fact just today we sold our 2004 260 Dancer... and it was very painful for us. We loved the layout of the 260, we had the 350 MAG with AIR and Heat and she performed great and never gave us any problems. Like I said, it was a hard choice but we felt we needed just a little more room and we got a great deal on the 300! The guy that said you should buy some foam for the aft bed section within the 260 (we called it the BAT CAVE), is correct do yourself the favor for sure.

Have fun and good luck, we are looking forward to the delivery of the 300, but we for sure have a tear in our eye for the 260....she was great fun!!!
Click to expand...

Hey Jim,

I can relate .. We just made an offer on a 300DA yesterday. I hate thinking about selling our 260. Would you mind telling me how much yours sold for? We're also looking at a 280DA and we had an offer on a 290AJ, but that one didn't go through.

-Charlie
 
dino said:
We just purchased a 2006 260 sundancer on a trade of a 20 ft jet boat. Before buying it I did some research and nothing but rave reviews on the boat. We just ran into several articles saying it was poorly designed, being top heavy and rolls alot in the water. Any truth behind this or is it just B.S. Either way we are looking forward to dropping her in the water soon. Thanks
Dino
Click to expand...

Try looking here http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9811&highlight=260da Some very good info on performance and some of the small "quirks". We love ours but it is just the beginning of the "itis".
 
With my 04 260 I have never had leakage in the storage compartment. Try adjusting the push button a little tighter. My paper is dry!
 
I'm about to get my hands on a set of spare props.

Where is the best place to store them? Has anyone come up with a good spot?

Michael
 
skibum said:
I'm about to get my hands on a set of spare props.

Where is the best place to store them? Has anyone come up with a good spot?

Michael
Click to expand...


not sure if you have a geneator but if not how about storing them in the ER where the Generator would go. I have secured a rubbermaid container in a similar fashion to Todd in that area.

Another option is in the transom locker, lazarette if you will. I think there would be enough room to the starboard side of the locker where nothing else will fit. I have a small one gallon bucket back there that is about hte same size as BIII props
 
skibum said:
I'm about to get my hands on a set of spare props.

Where is the best place to store them? Has anyone come up with a good spot?

Michael
Click to expand...

Hey Michael. I also have spare props and other items.
I made a bilge storage shelf.
Had a big area in front of the engine.
BilgeShelfandstorage7-17-083.jpg


Cut a shelf out of 1" cabinet grade plywood.
Gettingreadyforthetrip7-13-08.jpg


Screwed a Rubbermaid tub to it so it won't go anywhere and shift into the engine.
BilgeShelfandstorage7-17-085.jpg

BilgeShelfandstorage7-17-086.jpg


It works pretty well. I have spare starter, props, prop wrench, oil, funnel, plugs and jumper cables in there. I just need to alter how I have it mounted so I can have some quick releases in case I need to get it out of the way quickly.
 
Hi All:

Last year we purchased our first boat a 2008 260DA, Mag 350MPI, B3. I am not what you would call mechanically inclined. So at the year end when my dealer discussed winterizing I was pretty much at their mercy not knowing what exactly was necessary vs. what they recommend to maintain proper service, warranty etc.
At the end all work was done and I felt like I had paid through the nose but my new boat was properly winterized and safe.
Now it's re-commission time and they are trying to keep their business going on my cheques I'm sure. They talk about making the boat water ready by checking all fluids, running engines, check all electrical and make sure everything runs well. They want $240.00 to do this. I wondered if my boat's name had changed over the winter to "sucker".
When I gave them a fortune to do the winterization and they put all those fluids in and change other fluids, do I now have to pay them again to check the levels of those fluids, and make sure my previously perfectly running engine runs again?
Again guys................I can check an oil level, and a power steering level but beyond that I have no idea what to check at the outdrive, or the various tanks etc.

I guess what I'm looking for is a one of those yellow books "service manuals for dummies" to assist with the basics and eventually more advanced stuff.

I appreciate any input you take the time to give.

Bill

SO3x5.jpg

ListingM497a139-5.html

ListingM497a139-5.html
 
Thanks Todd, I had read that post before, but I didn't see the props in your bin when I looked at the pics...

I'm going to investigate putting them under the steps where the shower sump is when I unwrap her this week :smt038:smt038:smt038. There is a lot of unused space under there, and I read that someone on here was doing that.

Michael
 
bjac said:
When I gave them a fortune to do the winterization and they put all those fluids in and change other fluids, do I now have to pay them again to check the levels of those fluids, and make sure my previously perfectly running engine runs again?
Again guys................I can check an oil level, and a power steering level but beyond that I have no idea what to check at the outdrive, or the various tanks etc.

I guess what I'm looking for is a one of those yellow books "service manuals for dummies" to assist with the basics and eventually more advanced stuff.

I appreciate any input you take the time to give.

Bill
Click to expand...

Bill

The simple answer is you don't have to have the dealer "re-commission" it for you. On the other hand you need to understand what they did when they winterized it. Did they put antifreeze in the engine block (or maybe your engine is feshwater cooled in which case you already have anti-freeze in there and only the manifolds required antifreeze). If they drained the block did they put the plugs back in? If not they need to be put in. You may have a similar situation if you have a generator. Did they leave the transom plug out? If so, put that in. Are the batteries diconnected from the terminals? If so reconnect them. Are they fully charged? If not they need to be charged up. Some storage facilities remove outdrives for winter and store them in a safe place. Was yours removed? Was your freshwater system (including the hot water tank) just drained or does it have antifreeze in it? If its the latter you will need to fill your water tank a few times and run the water thru it to flush out the anti-freeze. While this list may not be complete, it represents most of what I can think of. Beyond that, it's merely a matter of dropping it in the water, checking for any leaks in the bilge, turning on any sea cocks that may have been closed such as the ones for your heat pump or generator (if so equipped) then firing up the engine, checking for leaks again, and at that point your are good to go.

Dave
 
ChuckW said:
Don, did you ever figure out your cable adjustment problem? I came across this PDF on mercury's site while searching for some other stuff. Thought it might help you. http://northamerica.mercurymarine.c...nstallation_Control_Friction_Instructions.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks for the instructions, Chuck. I had that same PDF but what I really need is the instructions as to how to remove the throttle handle and the black plastic cover plate that covers the adjustment screws shown in the instructions you found.

Thanks for looking anyway! :grin:

Here's an exploded view of all the parts. Doesn't even look like there are any adjustment screws in there? :huh:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/8457/50.cfm
 
dsteele1 said:
Thanks for the instructions, Chuck. I had that same PDF but what I really need is the instructions as to how to remove the throttle handle and the black plastic cover plate that covers the adjustment screws shown in the instructions you found.

Thanks for looking anyway! :grin:

Here's an exploded view of all the parts. Doesn't even look like there are any adjustment screws in there? :huh:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/8457/50.cfm
Click to expand...

That pdf looks like they take the black plate off without removing the handle at all. If you look at your exploded veiw, part 19 is all that you should have to remove. It has 4 plastic self locking tabs on it. Should be able to trip the tabs loose with a small screw driver or awl... Good luck
 
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