240DA Fridge Broke/Replace?

Matt R

New Member
Jul 22, 2008
25
Indiana
My fridge has doesn't work at all on 120v and cuts off when on 12v after an hour or so. It will run when the engine is running or after it is plugged into shore power for a couple hours. My marina has advised me to junk it and put in a new one rather than have them try to fix it. Any ideas? If replacement is in order, what model should I look at to replace it?
 
Matt

These AC/DC frigs will switch over to DC (12V) when no or low AC automatically. I have a cockpit frig that won't work on AC, but will on DC because the AC controller/converter is bad. This will get fixed under warranty this week. When working on DC if the battery voltage drops below a preset amount the frig will stop, this might explane why it works under shore power because your battery is being recharged and why it works when the engine is running and recharging the battery. I would think replacing the AC controller/converter would be lower cost than a new frig. Also check and see if the AC controller/converter has a fuse which might be blown. I haven't checked our frig for a fuse because you need to pull it (I'm basically lazy) and it's under warranty, and I still can use it under DC power.

Hope this helps,

Mike
 
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and check your batteries. How old are they? What is there condition?
 
The batteries are new group 24 AGMs installed at the beginning of this season. What's strange is the fridge will cut off after on battery for an hour or two, but the radio continues to play and the engine will crank without any problem. ?????????????
 
My Norcold has worked great for the short time we've owned it, but if I ever have to replace it, I'll look for maybe an Isotherm with a Danfoss compressor.
 
I have had similar problems myself. Indeed a small glass fuse on the control board was blown preventing it from working on 120v. A new fuse resolved that. I still continue to fight the run/won't run issue on 12v. I do understand that the control board is designed to shut the unit down if the voltage gets too low (and this will happen long before you lose power to your radio, lights, etc.). I've tried taking voltage readings to determine when mine does stop running, but it's been a pain. I know that I can rarely ever keep it running away from shore power even w/ two hot batteries.
 
I have had similar problems myself. Indeed a small glass fuse on the control board was blown preventing it from working on 120v. A new fuse resolved that. I still continue to fight the run/won't run issue on 12v. I do understand that the control board is designed to shut the unit down if the voltage gets too low (and this will happen long before you lose power to your radio, lights, etc.). I've tried taking voltage readings to determine when mine does stop running, but it's been a pain. I know that I can rarely ever keep it running away from shore power even w/ two hot batteries.

Which control board are you referring to? Under the dash console or somewhere on the fridge?
 
REPLACE...I have an 04 240 Sundancer with a NEW Norcold Frig. Mine slowly lost a charge in August and the compressor started adding up due to low charge. Had the unit charged which was challenge because the lines are so small and it holds next to nothing in R134. Then found a circuit board issue, that baby under the cover on top of the frig. Replaced that and found the circuit board went bad because the fan was not coming on in high heat.

Bottom line I stupidly spent $578.00 on repairs and got nothing other than a good box of parts. Finally drove to Defender here in Connecticut, bought a replacement model for $699.00 plus tax. Works great so far. Given my stupidity farting around with repairs, I refer to the new one as my "$1,300.00 refrig".....Best of all my 11 year old daughter went down below and said - "Daddy the new refrig looks just like the old one why did Mommy say it cost twice as much".......

Like the cell phone market, I believe if it is not an obvious problem, toss it and replace it. Repairs will eat you alive.

tginz
 
UPDATE:

If anyone has a similar problem, I figured out the solution last weekend. The switch between the battery and the fridge had some corrosion on the terminals, resulting in a poor connection. Works great now!
 

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