2010 sea ray 390 sundancer with bravo 3 outdrive

I couldn't find info for the 2010 (or similar) 390DA with sterndrives - my books were missing that data. But here is a model that is very close in dimensions/weight and at least gives us a good comparison. This is a 2012 370DA. Top speed is about 13% higher with sterndrives - while not the most important thing to look at, this should equate to a higher cruising speed, as well - and, actually, might show a higher % increase in cruising speed.


IMG-1579.jpg
HERE IS THE BOAT SPEC
CRUISE SPEED OF 45 MPH @ 3900 RPM
HERE IS A VIDEO OF THE BOAT RUNNING GO TO YOUTUBE AND TYPE IN THIS BELOW

38 Fountain Express Cruiser Sea Trial Twin 320 HP Cummins Diesels​

LOA 37 ft. 11 in.
BEAM 10 ft. 6 in.
DRAFT 3 ft. 2 in.
WEIGHT 13,500 lb. (dry)
DEADRISE 22 deg.
FUEL 270 gal.
 
If not mentioned.. Transom Assembly's go bad. Steering pin leaks and the motor has to be pulled to replace it. There are kits out there, but just a band aid. Transom assembly is around 2K. I would keep that in mind.
 
HERE IS THE BOAT SPEC
CRUISE SPEED OF 45 MPH @ 3900 RPM
HERE IS A VIDEO OF THE BOAT RUNNING GO TO YOUTUBE AND TYPE IN THIS BELOW

38 Fountain Express Cruiser Sea Trial Twin 320 HP Cummins Diesels​

LOA 37 ft. 11 in.
BEAM 10 ft. 6 in.
DRAFT 3 ft. 2 in.
WEIGHT 13,500 lb. (dry)
DEADRISE 22 deg.
FUEL 270 gal.
I was talking about my guess on the numbers of the 390 Sundancer. I'm very familiar with the 38 Fountain Express. You could also get the Fountain with staggered drives, Marc Racing motors, and even diesels with Surface drives.
 
If not mentioned.. Transom Assembly's go bad. Steering pin leaks and the motor has to be pulled to replace it. There are kits out there, but just a band aid. Transom assembly is around 2K. I would keep that in mind.

The pins don't have to go bad. Keep up with the corrosion battle and torque the bolts on the gimbals regularly (simple and takes less than a minute per drive), and they will last for thousands of hours. As far as the repair kits, if the steering pin does fail, they work famously as long as the gimbal itself has not gone bad, which it usually does not.

Outdrives are more involved to maintain on a slip-stored vessel than inboards by a good chunk. Slipping in salt water widens the gap even more. But if you tackle the corrosion issue (or avoid it by dry storing), and understand how to care for and maintain a sterndrive, they can provide thousands of hours of reliable service with minimal repairs.

Never ignore a click, rattle, or grinding sound.
Never continue to run a drive if you see metal in the oil.
Keep water out of the drive oil.
Never pressure wash a drive.
 
The steering pin issue is the seal. It goes bad over time and corrosion is a big part of it for a slipped boat once the seal has a problem, and it will. JMO
 
The steering pin seal will fail and the JR Marine repair is quick (4hrs), relatively inexpensive and durable. I did my twin B 3’s 10 12 years ago.
I did mine in '08 via Merc's instructions. It was pretty inexpensive and very straight forward. I had suspected one was leaking (turns out it wasn't). But I replaced both with stainless pins so their was no risk of rust damaging the new seals. My gimbals remain tight and leak free.
 
The steering pin seal will fail and the JR Marine repair is quick (4hrs), relatively inexpensive and durable. I did my twin B 3’s 10 12 years ago.
Agreed. And once Merc's original rusty hardened STEEL steering pin is replaced with a new STAINLESS pin along with a new seal and a grease fitting to lube the shaft annually it should never be an issue going forward. In fact, it will be better than new IMHO!

The main reason the seal leaks is that the pin's shaft starts to rust. Bad on Merc since they should have just used stainless pins on ALL Bravo 3 drives - not just their high performance drives. Once the shaft begins to rust it wears the rubber seal as you steer the boat which only becomes worse over time until you notice water coming into the engine room from the steering lever area.
 

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