2009 310 Sundancer engine hatch wont open

[stephenm27]

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

 

[Boater71]

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

Thank You so much as this is exactly what i was looking for. Now i have to find it!!! Are there any writing on the bottom to show the AMP ratings?

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

 

[stephenm27]

Are there any writing on the bottom to show the AMP ratings?

I don’t recall seeing markings but I will verify once l return home later this evening.

 

[Boater71]

Thank you stehenm27 for checking.

Here is my update. I bought a fuse variety pack and tested and here are the results as I believe it contradicts the data sheet for the marinco.

All AGC Cooper Bussmann fuses
250vac - 10 amp = worked for seconds and then blown (less than 10 amp, only 250vac)
32v - 15 amp = worked for seconds and lifted the hatch slightly and then fuse blown (used 2 fuses)
32v - 20 amp = worked for a few more seconds and opened the hatch up to about 2' and then blew (used 2 fuses)
I had larger fuse size, but the EIM says 20A Left hatch, so i did not want to to try anything larger than 20 amps.

So basically I got up to 2' opening after multiple blown fuses. I squeezed myself through 2' opening of the hatch to connect my batteries. I charged the batteries and was then able to fully open the hatch. On the EIM, I only found "lift hatch" is this for both?.

From my experience, I first need to find the right fuse size, then i need to figure out if the 12v power adapter connection provides power to one or both of the actuators. Does anyone know?

 

[stephenm27]

...

After careful examination of the opposite end, the 32V fuse in the adapter is marked "BUSS AGC 20A".

Given your recent info, I have a couple of hypotheses on root cause...

• The fuse is blowing because your batteries were entirely disconnected. I don't know if the helm 12V socket connection is intended to provide anything beyond an avenue to trickle charge to dead batteries. I would imagine that the combined actuator load is beyond that circuit's intended load capacity. I have never used this mechanism to attempt this so I am speaking from analyzing the schematic. and general conjecture.
• You have an actuator that is mechanically binding, thus increasing the current load. This, in turn, exceeds the circuit's designed capacity (assuming the circuit is in fact originally designed for this purpose).

For reference, this is the simplified wiring of the relevant components, based on the SR 310 schematics, assuming you don't have modifications of your boat's electrical system:

Hope this helps you figure it out...and most importantly, you get your season going out on the water!

 

[Boater71]

After careful examination of the opposite end, the 32V fuse in the adapter is marked "BUSS AGC 20A".

Thank You and yes I'm hoping to launch tomorrow am.
I believe I have used the same fuse in my last attempt which did about 2' lift.

Given your recent info, I have a couple of hypotheses on root cause...

• The fuse is blowing because your batteries were entirely disconnected. I don't know if the helm 12V socket connection is intended to provide anything beyond an avenue to trickle charge to dead batteries. I would imagine that the combined actuator load is beyond that circuit's intended load capacity. I have never used this mechanism to attempt this so I am speaking from analyzing the schematic. and general conjecture.
• You have an actuator that is mechanically binding, thus increasing the current load. This, in turn, exceeds the circuit's designed capacity (assuming the circuit is in fact originally designed for this purpose).

For reference, this is the simplified wiring of the relevant components, based on the SR 310 schematics, assuming you don't have modifications of your boat's electrical system:

Hope this helps you figure it out...and most importantly, you get your season going out on the water!

Thanks for sharing the simplified diagram. The DC power adapter is designed to open the hatch (which is what the paper attached to the adapter mentions). However I have no clue if it is designed to open the hatch when batteries are dead or disconnected.
I have not made any modifications. I have to question the schematics though, from my experience, when I use the 12VDC socket, the entire panel which includes the hatch switch is powered on, including the generator screen in the cabinet forward EIM cabinet. I did not turn any of the breakers on.

Can the 12VDC in the cockpit be connected directly to the aft EIM bypassing any of the switches? I looked in the manual but could not trace the connection.

The marina requires disconnecting batteries for long term winter storage, although I can launch and open the