2008 330 Sundancer engine hatch

F

Franklowe

New Member
May 24, 2013
2
Upstate NY
Boat Info
Sundancer 330
Engines
8.1, Bravo III drives
Been having trouble with the hatch lift popping the 20 amp breaker on my 2008 330DA. I think I have a bad hatch lift motor, which is an easy fix once I figure out which of the 2 motors is bad. The problem is the push in breaker for the lift is in the engine compartment, and if it pops when the hatch is partially open, I can't get get down there to reset it. When this happens, the only way to raise the hatch is with a jump pack in the 12v accessory plug. I had planned on moving the breaker to the DC panel in the cockpit, but the reversing relay and breaker are all part of a sealed fuse panel. Seems to me like pretty poor design. Anyone else run into this?
 
Frank, it is a bad design. There has been some discussion on the 2008 2009 new 330/350 thread. Another member had his dealer move the circuit breaker. I believe it was Bucit, but not sure how they got around the issue you've described.

I had both of my motors replaced, at the beginning of season 4. The shafts came out of alignment, which is what caused the motor failure. One was completely shot, another not great. I wish there was a manual hatch, within the larger one, for quick oil level, and bilge checks.

You are right with the 12 volt open option, at the helm, but if your circuit popped, does the dash option override it? I'd think in that case, you'd need to access the cotter pins at the top of the shafts, from the 2 access plates outside the engine compartment.


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I use to blow the fuse in my jumper at the helm when using an aux. battery (after I disconnected the main batteries for the winter).. I had to change to a slow blow fuse. I believe the hatch system draws too much juice even as designed. Not sure what the fix is.
 
Thanx Art, Using a jump pack in 12v oulet does overide the popped breaker. As far as the access hatches, I can't reach the cotter pins through them, unless I grew another elbow in my forearm, and I would imagine it would take several people to manually lift the hatch, it looks like it weighs about as much as a Hyundai. I realize I have to change the lift motor(s) which should fix the problem, but I'm very interested to know how the breaker was moved. If the breaker pops and I don't have a jump pack handy, I'm out of luck.
I tried to attach a pic, looks like we have identical boats, black hull and all
 
My circuit breaker tripped when I lifted the hatch and the bilge lights and/or blowers were on 100%. If I lifted the hatch without either of those two switches on, it went right up 100%.
 
where is the 12v plug? I am stuck with the same problem
now and hatch fully closed :( not sure what to jump start

andrea



Franklowe said:
Been having trouble with the hatch lift popping the 20 amp breaker on my 2008 330DA. I think I have a bad hatch lift motor, which is an easy fix once I figure out which of the 2 motors is bad. The problem is the push in breaker for the lift is in the engine compartment, and if it pops when the hatch is partially open, I can't get get down there to reset it. When this happens, the only way to raise the hatch is with a jump pack in the 12v accessory plug. I had planned on moving the breaker to the DC panel in the cockpit, but the reversing relay and breaker are all part of a sealed fuse panel. Seems to me like pretty poor design. Anyone else run into this?
Click to expand...
 
Can someone help me on this situation please? 08 350da hatch is stuck in the open position. Is there a fuse somewhere? The breaker is not tripped and has 12v to it. Please help.
 
Wow! Figured it out after a lot of hair pulling. Wife took out the trash from the cabinet and left the door open 1/2 " causing the door safety switch to activate. The door looked closed but open just enough to cause the issue.
In her defense, after an hour of frustration, she got online and figured out what was wrong. She found out in her research about the saftey switch then told me about taking out the trash and not closing the door all the way.....aaarrrrrrggggg!!!! what a relief.
 
Have any of you replaced the motors or rams? Mine make an awful racket when raising the hatch and i'd almost rather replace them than have a problem.

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I filled my motors with grease. I was blowing the breaker but not anymore...
 
Filling with grease didn't do the trick for me. I order replacements. I can't have Tue breaker popping everytime since the breaker is located below the hatch. Brilliant design there.

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If you don't mind me asking...What are 2 motors setting you back?
 
I was unable to locate them any other way than through sea ray and they only sell the full actuator and motor together. They were expensive. Roughly $430 each. I think its worth it though. If they fail I'll need a crane to open that hatch. Or my luck it'll drop while I'm inside and squish me like a grape.

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I had the dealer rewire the hatch lift with a new rocker switch on the dash and an in-line fuse below. This was after they had several consults with Sea Ray over the design problem inherent in the breaker being inaccessible when tripped with the hatch down. I have still had a couple of instances where the fuse blew, but now it is just a matter of replacing it below the dash. This work was covered under warranty.

My actuators are bogging down as time goes on and I suspect I may be replacing them soon as well. Not sure if the rest of you have experienced this, but they seem to take an unlimited amount of grease through the zerks and yet still act like they are not lubricated. Last year I started rubbing a little grease on the extension portion of the arms just to keep things moving. It scrapes off pretty quickly but helps a bit.
 
I put a full sleeve of grease in each side. Didn't help. There appears to be better built actuators out there but considering how hard it is to gain access to the bottom connection, its not worth it to change anything. Stock replacement it is.

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