2008 310 Sundancer subwoofer blown? Or amp?

[rwf]

I have to go hunting for a problem and I'm hoping someone else on the forum has seen a similar issue and can offer some pointers.

Just today my subwoofer (JL Audio) started that charicteristic buzzing noise they get when the cone is torn. But it is a polypropylene cone and looks to be perfect.

There are other symptoms. The circuit breaker for the cockpit amp(s) pops a few times a year. I'm not sure what trips it, but it always pops either just as the stereo is turned on (or before), it never trips while playing music.

So, I have a gremlin to hunt down. The raspy distortion could be a blown speaker. It could be a blown amp, especially given the circuit breaker popping. Or it could be a power problem and the bad sound and circuit breaker popping could be a loose connection.

Any help appreciated. Especially from people who have worked on a similar-model-year stereo, if you can just tell me where to find all the components and power busses that would be a huge help.

Rich

 

[ShaneOnYou]

In the aft cabin behind the starboard side wall... It should flip down after you remove the cushions... Everything you need should be in there


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[tdgard]

Just today my subwoofer (JL Audio) started that charicteristic buzzing noise they get when the cone is torn. But it is a polypropylene cone and looks to be perfect.

Rich

Cones hardly ever tear. The rasp is most likely coming from a blown voice coil. Press in gently and evenly on the cone. If it does not feel smooth and feels a bit "gravely" she's a blown.

 

[rwf]

Thanks for the tips. I actually hope it is The speaker, since that's a trivial repair.


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[Wylie_Tunes]

rwf,

I see two issues at this point. One is a tripping breaker. Its either a failing breaker, the amp's current draw is spiking or the breaker/cabling is too low for the potential normal draw. The 2nd, is the noise/distortion/behavior from the woofer. The reason why I think you have two issues, is cause it would be rare for a blown driver to cause an amps circuit protection to blow. If the woofer's coil(s) shorts, the low impedance will typically put the amp in protect mode. Output stops, draw reduces. Now, you could have a bad amp, causing both issue, I wont rule that out. Blown woofer symptoms typically dont come and go. So it leans more toward the amp or its signal input.

Start by making sure the amp cabling and breaker are appropriate for the potential load. Next, you can ohm the woofer to see if its within spec. Then do movement test on it. push the cone in and let it come back out. it should move freely with no noise or drag.

 

[zboaterctf]

I had similar issues on my 08 sundeck. I thought it was the clarion head unit, as the sub also looked ok. Ended up being a failed channel on the amp. Replaced the amp with a new 6 channel JL and all sounds great.