2005 320 sundancer overheating

dantheman1966

New Member
Jul 9, 2012
17
mentor,ohio
Boat Info
2005 320 sundancer
Engines
twin350 mercruiser
Hi,

Just bought a 2005 320 sundancer. I have all the maintenance records and in July,2012 the risers and manafolds were replaced because of an overheating problem. Boat was just delivered and after operating it for 10 minutes at 3500 rpm and 10 min at 1000 rpm the starboard engine overheated. I called a mechanic that had fixed a few of the survey issues and he told me the pump must have lost its prime and to check that. I had a semi mechanic take the pump apart and found the rubber impellor alittle damaged and a groove on the inside of the pump. He changed the impeller and reprimed the pump and the water flow from the exhaust came back strong. I have yet to take the boat back out. Don't want it overheat again and have an issue on the lake in 45 degree water temp. we did run it at the dock for 30 min. and the temp stayed fine. I believe its fixed but I have my doughts. Any thoughts on this issue???


Thanks,


Dan
 
This may sound like a dumb question, but are the seacocks open? Someone at my marina just put their boat in this weekend took a run and over heated his engines and forgot to open his.
 
fresh water cooled or raw? If FW, check antifreeze/coolant levels. I am currently chasing a loss of coolant on one engine. They are pretty simple systems, just check one item at a time. The "groove" in the pump would be a little disconcerting. Might be worth just changing it out if you don't know the history of them.
 
Hope im posting in the right place...I have just changed my alternator, starboard side, for the second time on my 5.7 Horizon powered 2006 320 dancer. First one was making a clicking noise...searay replaced it on warranty.....started making that clicking,...bad bearing sounds again two short seasons later. Does anyone know of recall on these alternators...Thanks for reponce...Ed
 
Ed, best to start a new thread instead of jumping on this subject. You will get a better response.
 
Not sure if you realize the difference. They are all essentially "raw water cooled", the difference is that some use a fresh water/glycol like your car to actually circulate in the engine. But there is a heat exchanger that has the "raw water" going through it to cool the antifreeze. If you have this system you will see a tank on top of your engine with a radiator cap on it. From you profile info, dollars to donuts you are fresh water cooled and heat exchangers. Take a look.
thanks for the advise. They are raw water cooled. I never thought about any antifreeze.
 
no heat exchangers so no coolant. Took it for a ride yesterday after replacing the impellor and it overheating again in the channel at low rpm. Was on the lake for about 15 min. at 3500-4500 rpm and had no issues.
 
If you haven't already, I would replace the thermostat! If that doesn't fix it, you might have an obstruction somewhere in the rw cooling system!
 
Does the boat have thru-hull water intake for cooling, or does it pick up the water from the outdrive? If it is from the outdrive you may want to consider switching to thru-hull cooling, especially if your boat will be hauled to correct this problem. My boat originally had the thru-outdrive intake, and the PO switched to thru-hull. Solved his occasional overheating issues. Something to consider, after you tried all the most logical fixes, like the thermostat. The grooves in the water pump probably wouldn't prevent the water from circulating bad enough to cause overheating, IMO.
 
When you had the impellers changed, did they also install the "new" two part housing? It is plastic with a stainless steel insert wear plate. If so they have a hard time self priming themselves at idle. After start I have increase rpm to about 1500 for 10 seconds or so then no problems as long as it stays in the water. Next time they are open put silicone behind the wear plate.
 

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