2005 320 5.7L with V - Missfire

If your distributor wasn’t monkeyed with or moved, it’s unlikely that you have the same issue.
You would think this is the case. However, the Merc video/bulletin explains that they have found mechanical wear after as little as 20 hours on the engine can result in minute timing issues that manifest as crossfire/misfire. They specifically cite timing change stretch as a contributor. I have 320 hours on this engine.

So, in the interest of eliminating potential causes, I have done some hall-effect sensor research and constructed the "camshaft position indicator" tool mentioned in the video and will perform the procedure as described. It should indicate whether I might have found the problem. If no adjustment is indicated by the process, then I know to disregard and continue my troubleshooting. Hope is all I have right now :).
 
You would think this is the case. However, the Merc video/bulletin explains that they have found mechanical wear after as little as 20 hours on the engine can result in minute timing issues that manifest as crossfire/misfire. They specifically cite timing change stretch as a contributor. I have 320 hours on this engine.

So, in the interest of eliminating potential causes, I have done some hall-effect sensor research and constructed the "camshaft position indicator" tool mentioned in the video and will perform the procedure as described. It should indicate whether I might have found the problem. If no adjustment is indicated by the process, then I know to disregard and continue my troubleshooting. Hope is all I have right now :).

We took it out for a test run this morning, and after a few tweaks to the distributor in both directions, I was able to determine that moving it counter-clockwise about a 1/16th of an inch resolved the intake popping entirely. It’s the best it has run in the last two seasons.

Unfortunately, on the way home, the boat was broadsided by a Toyota Tacoma at about 35 mph (he ran the red light).

Tonight, the boat is on a low boy in a local tow yard awaiting the start of the insurance process. If I had to guess, I would say it’s likely to be totaled.

I think I’ll start another thread on lessons learned today ;-).
 
We took it out for a test run this morning, and after a few tweaks to the distributor in both directions, I was able to determine that moving it counter-clockwise about a 1/16th of an inch resolved the intake popping entirely. It’s the best it has run in the last two seasons.

Unfortunately, on the way home, the boat was broadsided by a Toyota Tacoma at about 35 mph (he ran the red light).

Tonight, the boat is on a low boy in a local tow yard awaiting the start of the insurance process. If I had to guess, I would say it’s likely to be totaled.

I think I’ll start another thread on lessons learned today ;-).

Well that sucks. Best of luck with dealing with your insurance.

-Kevin
 
Did you ever find the tool they talked about in that video or just moved the timing that little bit?

I made the tool from a 9V battery, LED and a resistor. Essentially, all it is is a visual tool to detect when the cam shaft sensor (a hall-effect switch) transitions from off/on.

Even with the tool, I found manual adjustment on the lake to be a better solution. I think the tool would be better if you had significant timing chain stretch, but in my case, the eventual adjustment was only 1/16" of an inch (as measured on the hvs cap).
 
I made the tool from a 9V battery, LED and a resistor. Essentially, all it is is a visual tool to detect when the cam shaft sensor (a hall-effect switch) transitions from off/on.

Even with the tool, I found manual adjustment on the lake to be a better solution. I think the tool would be better if you had significant timing chain stretch, but in my case, the eventual adjustment was only 1/16" of an inch (as measured on the hvs cap).

Thank you so much!
 

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