2005 300 Sundancer ignition issues on port engine

[Snapshot]

I've replaced both starters,solenoids, ignition switches, checked wiring, fuel pump modules are new. I've replaced virtually every major part on the engine and this ignition issues started a month ago. The port engine starts right up first thing in the morning and can run the entire day but if I Anchor for any period of time the port engine will not start back up for about an hour. My mechanics and myself are at a loss on what is happening . Any suggestion would be helpful. I also have checked the wiring on the panels down below. Thanks

 

[MiLoII]

If you can provide more detail you will get more helpful advice here. When you say wont start, do you mean wont crank at all, cranks but wont start, you hear fuel pumps energize or not etc. Also what diagnostic steps did you take that led you to the ignition system vs fuel? Sounds a whole lot like a case of vapor lock if engine is turning but wont start for a period of time after being run

 

[ZZ13]

Had a similar problem on my 2004 300DA on starboard engine. Engine would crank but not start when hot. Never could solve it. Reputable Sea Ray mechanic concluded it was just an installation characteristic that resulted in vapor lock. Was able to start the hot engine at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle instantly. So I just did that until I sold the boat.

 

[kevin27]

You are getting a vapor lock in the fuel line. I had it happen to me on my 300. It's a long time back but if I remember right I think there is a kit or mod you can do(ie add a fuel pump,check vlv or something, don't quote me I can't remember) but it has to do with the hot raw water from the block draining back to the fuel cooler when you shut it down. Let it cool and it fires right back up.
It was a common problem. Good luck.

 

[Ididntdoit]

You state that both fuel pump modules are new....the fuel line to the rail is a bitch to pull out of the old module - often, the insulation is lost, damaged or slid too far up the line on reinstallation - this line passes under the manifold and the proper insulation is critical - also, bleed the line from the schrader valve in the fuel rail - any air in the line just makes the problem way worse

 

[Mark.60]

I had a neutral safety switch go bad in a 33 dancer. When it got hot it would hang up in the opened position. Easy test, just bypass it for testing purposes

 

[Snapshot]

If you can provide more detail you will get more helpful advice here. When you say wont start, do you mean wont crank at all, cranks but wont start, you hear fuel pumps energize or not etc. Also what diagnostic steps did you take that led you to the ignition system vs fuel? Sounds a whole lot like a case of vapor lock if engine is turning but wont start for a period of time after being run

 

[Snapshot]

Motor won't crank , just dead when you hit ignition. Guages all are active .

 

[Snapshot]

You are getting a vapor lock in the fuel line. I had it happen to me on my 300. It's a long time back but if I remember right I think there is a kit or mod you can do(ie add a fuel pump,check vlv or something, don't quote me I can't remember) but it has to do with the hot raw water from the block draining back to the fuel cooler when you shut it down. Let it cool and it fires right back up.
It was a common problem. Good luck.

 

[Snapshot]

Even if the engine doesen't crank ? Again, after about 45 min will start right up.

 

[Snapshot]

If you can provide more detail you will get more helpful advice here. When you say wont start, do you mean wont crank at all, cranks but wont start, you hear fuel pumps energize or not etc. Also what diagnostic steps did you take that led you to the ignition system vs fuel? Sounds a whole lot like a case of vapor lock if engine is turning but wont start for a period of time after being run

 

[Snapshot]

Port engine won't crank. Dead, guages are active when buzzer goes on but acts dead.

 

[kevin27]

Oh then I don't know. No crank is something else.
We need a start system schematic to find out what's going on. I think that goes though the emi box so maybe heat related. I know there is an emi in the eng room but also one under the helm. Don't know how the start is controlled. Need schematic.

 

[Snapshot]

Oh then I don't know. No crank is something else.
We need a start system schematic to find out what's going on. I think that goes though the emi box so maybe heat related. I know there is an emi in the eng room but also one under the helm. Don't know how the start is controlled. Need schematic.

 

[Snapshot]

Yes I had EMI in engine room replaced about 6 months ago. I will check schematics in owners manual on the other one. I believe we checked that also.

 

[Mark.60]

Check to see if the neutral safety switch is sending a ground to the 50 amp circuit breaker on the engine. Bad switch will kill all power to ignition. Easy check with no cost.

 

[Wanderer 290]

When the no start condition is present does the port volt gauge indicate a drop when the key is turned to crank the engine. Are there any sounds at the starter/solenoid?

 

[Snapshot]

When the no start condition is present does the port volt gauge indicate a drop when the key is turned to crank the engine. Are there any sounds at the starter/solenoid?

No drop in volt Guage. No sound in starter or solenoid. Once engine has sat for about 45 min to hour it will turn right back over. Again first thing in morning it starts up and will run the entire day. Once you turn off and anchor and a couple of hours later it won't turn over(port). At the end of my rope with this issue

 

[Snapshot]

Check to see if the neutral safety switch is sending a ground to the 50 amp circuit breaker on the engine. Bad switch will kill all power to ignition. Easy check with no cost.

Will check again. Thanks