2005 260DA Engine removal

[skibum]

Does anyone know if the the engine in an '05 260 can be removed without completely removing the hatch? I haven't tried yet, but I'm hoping that if I pull the pin out of the bracket where the lift ram attaches to the bottom of the deck hatch it will tilt back far enough to give clear access for removing the engine. The upper arm on the transom plate that holds the power steering actuator in place broke off. There appears to have been a casting flaw in the aluminum. I've got to pull the engine to replace it. The marina has a big forklift and can lift it out easy enough. I was just hoping to avoid removing the entire hatch...

Lotta work to replace a $240 part...

 

[Lazy Daze]

I got 'ya beat - had to pull my engine to remove a $130 part. The oil pan. I tried sliding under the boat in my mechanics creeper, like you would with a car, but there was a big hunk of fiberglass that kept getting in my way. In my case, I was able to do what you are thinking of and just disconnect the lift spring (not mechanical in my era 260DA) and get the hatch totally vertical.

Now, my set up is different than yours since it's a typical-sized hatch. I can't recall the last time I was involved in a '05-'09 260DA enigne removal, though. Yours as you know, is a much bigger piece in that it's inclusive of the transom locker. I think the locker is your limiting factor in how far back it will go - but it seems to me that it should go at least 90* before the locker (or grabrail, which can be removed) contacts the platform. I'm pretty sure that the way the hinges are setup, they would allow for this.

I would say just give it a shot and go ahead and test the theory. Worst case, if it doesn't work (I really think it will, though), THEN you remove the whole thing. You're not losing any steps, though, since to remove it you'd still have to do everything you did to see if it will go vertical enough. Just make sure you are supporting (tie it off with rope, for example) that hatch to keep it from falling - in both directions!

 

[skibum]

Thank you Dennis. I'm going to go down to the boat with a friend this evening and see how far it goes. After looking at some pics, and thinking about it, I'm pretty sure that it would need to go well past 90 degrees before either the locker or grab bar will hit. I'm starting to get more concerned about it from going too far back and snapping the hinges off. Your advice to tie off will be taken for sure.

The good news is that my mechanic says we can do it in a single day.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I replaced the same $130 part Dennis did and yes, they were able to pull the pin and lean it back enough to pull the engine w/o removing the hatch.

Bennett

 

[davidh82]

Does anyone know if the the engine in an '05 260 can be removed without completely removing the hatch? I haven't tried yet, but I'm hoping that if I pull the pin out of the bracket where the lift ram attaches to the bottom of the deck hatch it will tilt back far enough to give clear access for removing the engine. The upper arm on the transom plate that holds the power steering actuator in place broke off. There appears to have been a casting flaw in the aluminum. I've got to pull the engine to replace it. The marina has a big forklift and can lift it out easy enough. I was just hoping to avoid removing the entire hatch...

Lotta work to replace a $240 part...

Hey Skibum,

I'm really sorry to hear that you didn't make it on the water this weekend! You were pivotal in helping me resolve the issues on my 240!

Do you know when you'll be able to pull then engine?

 

[skibum]

Glad to hear that you are running good now, David. I'm glad I could help. Timing is everything. Next time I'm in Miami, I'll be expecting a boat ride and a Mojito. :lol:

I THINK that I might be okay for the rest of the season. I've been away from CSR for a while and my CSR sponsorship elapsed, so I can't post the pictures right now. I'll fix that in the next couple of days.

I had a friend come down to the marina and look at it with me on Saturday. We ended up fabricating a couple of 3/16" thick steel brackets with an angle grinder. We drilled and tapped a couple of holes on the part of the transom plate that did not break, and bolted the part that broke off back in place. I've got her all back together now. The boat is still on land, but turning the wheel feels the same as it always did. I had a friend turn the wheel while I checked things out in the engine room. The brackets do not move, the steering actuator is pivoting freely where it should be, and there is no indication that anything is binding. It sounds and feels solid as a rock. As long as the casting holds where I installed the bolts, I think it might even be strong enough to be a permanent repair. At least until I have to pull the motor for something else. I'm going to upgrade to unlimited towing, just in case... LOL

All of the outside work is done. New swivel shaft, new gimbal bearing, all new rubber parts, new shift cable, new trim senders, and most importantly, a new water inlet hose. I'm even replacing the red hose that goes from the inlet housing to the water pump. I found it locally for $8 a foot. I have the water pump out right now, but will be putting it back in this evening. I have a Hardin Marine pump, so I'm installing a rebuild kit (impeller and wear plates) when everything else is new. I sure hope I get the 16-17 psi that you get. It's been a long time since I've seen that...

 

[davidh82]

Next time I'm in Miami, I'll be expecting a boat ride and a Mojito. :lol:

You got it!!

Glad to hear you were able to fabricate a fix for the steering issue. I bet if anything the part is stronger now than it was before being broken. I always like to hear about fixes like that, especially since it helps you to avoid having to remove the engine. I'll keep an eye open for those pics